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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This took a bit longer that I expected due to work scheduling and other priorities but I finally got the rear subframe back in the SC today so I am OK with finally publishing the prints to make them. The dimension/prints for the rear subframe bushings are similar to the ones I installed on my car so you can make them or have them made. They have not been road tested but fit very well. No guarantee that these will fit yours but they fit my 1993 SC very well and I would expect them to work with any other MN-12 chassis vehicle as well but have not tested nor verified this. Rounding/converting to metric might get you closer but these dimensions are what worked for me. You will also need some 1/2" Grade 8 washers or equivalent as well. The bushings I made have a hexagon bore and the prints are round that it just because I had hexagon stock at home and not round bar when the time came to make them up. Big thanks to those (both here and no longer here) who researched and made/documented these in the past. Edits and revisions are welcome.



Disclaimer:
For off-road use only. Not road tested. No warranty expressed or implied and the user takes full responsibility for any use, and/or misuse of this information and agrees that the draftsman (JB351) holds no responsibility for any consequences, legal, or other, of such use and/or misuse.
 

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1996 Thunderbird LX
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Finally. I have been waiting for these prints. Glad that you got around to doing it.
 

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There's nothing durable enough to 3d print those. well, sintered ti powder maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now I need to buy a 3D printer lol
I agree with Grog. These are not something that can or should be printed at home. There may be ways down the road to do it but not in a way I would trust or recommend yet.

You should still buy a 3d printer though, they are great for prototyping and making stuff. I prototyped those bushings on mine. I also needed unusual angle flexible couplers for my induction system and was able to print it. I made an 80mm MAF sensor housing last month to play around with.
 

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looks good; are you going to test it, or just put it in and see what happens?
The bigger question is, what temperature does it melt at?
I've seen 180 degrees heatsoak temperature in traffic ib summer,Canada might be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That one is just a cheap PLA plastic test print to install and play with in the yard while I make revisions as needed. I still have to print the sample tube sleeves for it as well. It is going to be printed again out of a stronger material before it hits the road.
 

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Why is the degree so precise on the lower half? Is that just what falls into place for the 2.829 and the 3.695 OD? Are you holding +/-.005? I see no tolerances anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Why is the degree so precise on the lower half? Is that just what falls into place for the 2.829 and the 3.695 OD? Are you holding +/-.005? I see no tolerances anywhere.
That is just what it happened to measure out at and it is probably a whole number as designed, but manufacturing tolerances and variances affect that as well. Rounding it up or down won't make much or any of a difference. I completely forgot about adding tolerances, they were on an earlier version so thank you for catching that oversight on my part. Apologies for that but they are nothing to sweat about and I'll revise it when I have some spare time. They are left a touch on the big side to compress/fit into the opening as they are tightened to the body. Lets call it +/- 0.005 for everything except the bore and sleeve as you want that to be size to size for a tight fit. Smack bushings and sleeves into place with a rubber mallet and then tighten them up to spec, the small gap between the lower bushing and the subframe should be gone as it makes a snug fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Anyone want whip up an extra set of these based on these blueprints and undercut SCP I’m very interested 😉
Anybody that wants to make/sell/revise/base a set from these prints are more than welcome to do so but unless you are/know a machinist you might be unpleasantly surprised what it costs to make a single set if you are paying for labour and materials.

I need to clean up the CAD files for them but I will post them when I do.

We're all in this together doing our best to keep these amazing cars on the road with such little support from the aftermarket. I am starting to machine the rear suspension bushings tomorrow and if all goes well by the time it's all back together (eventually) I should have more info on their specs that I can share.
 

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I work in a machine shop. If I am allowed to hopefully I can help the cause. If not I plan on getting a lathe way down the line.
 
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