TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I picked up a whole 1998 Mark VIII rear sub-frame for a good price. Now, I've read enough here to know I can use the pumpkin, LCA's (with perches), and rear discs.
Before anybody hits me with a :gotsearch, trust me I've tried, but can't find an answer to my question.

Can I just bolt up the whole Mark VIII sub-frame up unto my 1995 T-Bird and be done with it? What issues am I going to run into? I am picking up the assembly this weekend and was going to wait until I got it here to look it over better, but I figured you all would clue me in to what I'm in for! lol

Thank you in advance for all your help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Bfh

We got a lot of impact tools, 150+psi air & cutting torches (not necessarily at the same time). There isn't a bolt in front of me that doesn't come off....:D And yes, I have had 'em requiring broke loose by hand or cut off with a chisel, cutting wheel or torch since impact wouldn't do it. We had a 2 1/2 ton truck rear end in there last week that after breaking a few tools, Dan (the boss) wouldn't let us touch anymore. It wasn't me that broke them and I told him I could get it, but the damage had already been done...

Also, I'm from Maine and can tell you working on Florida cars/trucks is MUCH easier since there is little to no corrosion to deal with like there is on northern vehicles EVERY TIME! That winter salt does a number on them; I always smile when I go to a pick-a-part here, crawl under a 15 year old vehicle, and find the undercarriage looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor! whoohoo!
 

·
PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
Joined
·
3,868 Posts
Don't forget the parking brake. I plan to do this same thing but there is no room in the garage. I also would do the stainless steel braided lines for your rear disk brakes, it completes the upgrade IMHO. DO you have new diff bushings I would reuse any old ones. Its strait forward and if you buy it this way from a junkyard you pay less than if you bought any of it separately.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Don't forget the parking brake. I plan to do this same thing but there is no room in the garage. I also would do the stainless steel braided lines for your rear disk brakes, it completes the upgrade IMHO. DO you have new diff bushings I would reuse any old ones. Its strait forward and if you buy it this way from a junkyard you pay less than if you bought any of it separately.
Ummm, what about the parking brake? Am I gonna be missing some pieces? Do I have to fab something? And yes, new bushings, all the rest of them are new on the car (well, most of them)...lol SS lines? Sure, why not!

Ok, I've researched the parking brake issue, but still don't know what I've got and what I'm missing until I get it up here this weekend, so we'll see.
 

·
PostSlut
Joined
·
13,597 Posts
ok just curious. what is the advantage to putting the mark viii subframe in?
only thing that comes to mind is the weight savings.

and disc brakes if you don't have them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,862 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
only thing that comes to mind is the weight savings.

and disc brakes if you don't have them.
Yup, aluminum and discs... also got a 3.73TL carrier I'm gonna put in at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
I have a question along these lines:
My 1991 subframe is rusty and nasty, and i have a Mark VIII frame welded and reay to pop in.

Should I drill some holes above the bolts to saturate them with PB first? Any tips on where to drill? I'm thinking just a 1/4" hole to fit the spray "straw" through, so I can get them good and soaked with PB for a few days beforeI try busting them loose. A broken bolt.... I don't even want to think about it. lol

This is a race car, so really have no problem with cutting abigger hole, think maybe I should inspect things before I try busting them loose? I'm sort of worried about invasive rust and spinning nuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
There is a thread "IRS Subframe bolts". Read it. You have some good things to know from that thread when you are going to change the subfarme

Berth
 

·
The Parts Guy
Joined
·
7,360 Posts
Should I drill some holes above the bolts to saturate them with PB first? Any tips on where to drill? I'm thinking just a 1/4" hole to fit the spray "straw" through, so I can get them good and soaked with PB for a few days beforeI try busting them loose.
That would be a good idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
Did it tonight, worked great... that is to say, I soaked the rear bolts easily with a 1/4" hole each. Took some measuring to pinpoint the exact location, there's actually a tiny tiny dimple punched into the sheetmetal above them.

Will work on the front bolts later.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,017 Posts
I'm not sure soaking them will help; they're listed as being "Epoxy Coated" in the factory manual. :rolleyes:

I guess that's for when Loctite Red isn't safe enough. :)

I'll need to do this before too long; last I checked, there weren't bushing available to replace them all.

Please let us know if the PB blaster made a difference; a 1/4" hole is much easier than a 1.5" hole, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
I actually drilled two holes in either side, one for my eye and one for my LED light. The bolts are conspiculously rusted, so whatever coating was on them is likely compramised by now. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
so is the entire subframe assembly aluminum or just some parts.

i was also wondering if anybody can find the thread on here showing what spots should be rewelded on the stock subframes to help strengthen them. i know i have read it once but i cant find it anymore. thanx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,005 Posts
Only the lower control arms are aluminum, the rest is steel.

As for welding, just look the seams over and run a bead wherever you see a gap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
On a car with almost no rust, I broke one of the rear subframe bolts. Everthing came out with a some work but I'll tell you from experience, most don't want to come out after many years. Good luck with removal.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,240 Posts
i was also wondering if anybody can find the thread on here showing what spots should be rewelded on the stock subframes to help strengthen them. i know i have read it once but i cant find it anymore. thanx
This might be what you're looking for! :)

Joe
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top