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Discussion Starter #1
Yanking my 4.6 to fix broken exhaust manifold studs. It became necessary as part of the greater project of replacing the transmission. Gives me a chance to replace the oil pan gasket, anyway.

Motor mounts are kicking my tail. I can see the rear block-bracket bolts, but not the fronts. Looks like there are two bolts that come in from the front side, maybe I can get a socket on them, if that's an easier method. 13 mm head, maybe?

Trying to take the AC compressor off the engine so I don't have to disconnect the lines. I have one of the lower bolts out, I think I can see two more, but not sure how many there are. Haynes manual is useless here. Anyone know?

Disconnecting the PS line from the pump. After unbolting the bracket that supports it to the block, the line itself is really loose. Amazing that it actually seals, as loose as it is.
 

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There is 4 bolts holding the compressor on the engine, if I remember correctly
 

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The power steering lines have Swivel fittings .. so they can move with the engine vibrations and still seal.

Motor mount bolts are 13mm .. only Two bolts they need to be removed from the Front of the engine - you can access them with a couple extensions .. no need to remove the AC compressor, or Oil filter to get to the bolts .. just need to find them and take the out.

When you start pulling the engine, you will need to remove the AC compressor .. I usually unbolt it from the engine when it is about 1 foot higher than its normal position.
 

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You guys rock. Thanks for the info.

PS pulley is still on, Autozone has loaned out their puller, so I'm going to try to remove the line with the pulley still in place.

I was amazed at how light the hood is. Not quite a one-man job, but easy enough for me and my son.
 

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Motor mounts are kicking my tail. I can see the rear block-bracket bolts, but not the fronts. Looks like there are two bolts that come in from the front side, maybe I can get a socket on them, if that's an easier method. 13 mm head, maybe?
There is a single bolt that holds the motor mount to the car. It comes out the front easily, and the path to it is clear. You just need a couple of extensions.

Yank that, and pull the motor mount off with the engine out, if that's what you're trying to do.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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I used wobble extensions and swivel head ratchet. to pull those horizontal bolts. Just remembering that makes me mad at myself I didn't replace the motor mounts while I had it apart..
 

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PostSlut
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if you look in the pic, and if you know where the motor mount location is, you will see a 13mm gold bolt that is facing the front of the car....those are it..one on both sides..

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks to all for the info.

The motor mount through-bolts are easier to get than they look. 13mm deep well and a 6" extension, came loose easily with a 1/2" wratchet wrench. Passenger side is a little tight with the sway bar, but still doable. No need to remove the oil filter or the AC compresor first.

AC compressor has 3 bolts, 10mm head. So much easier to get at them after I lifted the engine 8 inches or so. Because of the angle, it's easy to round the heads off, so a good 6-point socket is a must.

Ground strap on the passenger side is hidden, goes from the front of the passenger motor mount bracket-engine block bolt to the inner fender rail, under a wire bundle. The AC compressor electrical plugs are a pain as well.

A load leveler makes a huge difference; I connected it to the alternator mounting holes in front and the upper tranny bolt holes at the rear. $25 well-spent at Harbor Freight. I had to lower the front end back to the floor to get enough vertical clearance to swing the motor of the fenders. It wil be interesting to get it back in, with the tranny attached this time, but I think I'd rather do that than try to lift the tranny into place from underneath.
 
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