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Lately, my engine's been running a bit rough. I know the EGR valve is bad and the air filter/MAF are in need of cleaning, but I don't think that's it. The engine shakes around a bit, and when shutting it off, it comes to a nice shaky stop that shakes the car pretty bad. Could it be the motor mounts?

I'm doing plugs/wires and MAF/filter tomorrow, so we'll see if that clears it. Screw the EGR, that's $45.
 

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It could be. I noticed a shake in mine a while ago - figured it was motor mounts (due to the car being 13 years old, and almost 160k miles) Got new ones and my old ones were in pretty bad shape. As far as I can tell, it took care of the shake I had. The only time I noticed it is when I was idling, whether at a stop light, stop sign, or in the driveway. Otherwise, didn't notice anything.

-Andy "Melon"
 

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Yeah, same here, I don't notice a thing. The engine SOUNDS rougher, tho.
 

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with hood open, put it in forward and then reverse, with brakes firmly applied so the car cant move. Hit the gas a bit in each direction, if your engine picks up or rotates much in either direction, you have bad mounts. Most 96 and 97 birds ive looked at lately have bad mounts.....
 

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How hard are they to get to?
 

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Not an easy thing to do. I did mine the first time with the engine in the car. I removed the power steering pump bracket and alternator bracket from the engine to reach the drivers mount easier, but you might not have too, then just worked my hands to reach the passengers mount. I picked the engine up with a jack and blocks underneath. The second time I did it with the engine out of the car. much easier.
 

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took me an hour and a 1/2 to change both motor mounts on my 96'. changed them from under the car.
 

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It wasn't fun, but I did it witout removing anything other than the air intake tube. I got to them from the top, but with the car up on stands so that I could get to a couple of the bolts from underneath. The passenger side came out from the bottom by moving it towards the front of the car. The drivers side came out and went in towards the rear and then out the top. It did take some time to figure out how to get the drivers side in and out of there with all the brake lines in the way, but somehow I did it without bending or disconecting anything (all those hours playing Tetris finally paid off!) Depending on how your car is equipped, the brake lines might be routed differently, so you may have to remove the PS bracket.

You can definitely see them better from the bottom to plan your attack. And lifting the engine up a bit was the key to getting the clearance you need to manuever them out.

Carlo.
 

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My '89 base model 3.8 TBird was running really rough like it was missing or something so in the process of checking things out here to see what the possibilities could be I saw where many were saying bad motor mounts could cause this problem so I had my husband check mine out. Well sure enough the driver's side was bad to the point my engine had dropped to where the fan blades were hitting on the shrouding(sp?). I got the part at O'Reily's for a little over $41. My husband said it took him about 2 hours to get it out(it had broken in half so it came out in pieces), but it only took him 15 minutes to get the new one on.

Now, even though we still have to figure out what a Code 32 is and what to do about it, my Bird purrs like a kitten or, since it is a Thunderbird and not a Cougar should I say she now soars high and proud again!?! :)

We are truly *very* thankful for all of the generosity shown here! We're very impressed with everyone's willingness to help others. It's a trait not often found now days.

Hats off to everyone here at TCCOA !!!!

TBird_N_Flight:znanner: :wiggle: :headbang: :bowdown:
 
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