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Discussion Starter #41
Are the spark plugs in?

Compression will stop it as it comes up, but it will bleed off in a few seconds.

With the followers out, it should rotate freely; there's nothing for it to hit.

Did you have both heads off? If not, you need to pull the other one.

Somethings not right; don't try to start it until you figure it out.
All plugs are out. All followers have been removed. I have not pulled the other head since it appeared to be fine when I tore everything down. I was afraid I might have to pull it. Are there any bolts that extend in to the block that I might be overlooking here that could be hitting on a rod? It seems odd that everything rotates easily until the timing mark is in a certain place. For reference if I rotate the crank counter-clockwise it stops just shy of where it stops rotating clockwise, like there is a bolt or something in the way. Really strange.
 

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It cannot be the starter because the starter isn’t engaged with the flexplate unless it’s on.

I hate to say it but kind of sounds like something is in a cylinder. Have you rotated it backwards to see where it stops from that direction?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
It cannot be the starter because the starter isn’t engaged with the flexplate unless it’s on.

I hate to say it but kind of sounds like something is in a cylinder. Have you rotated it backwards to see where it stops from that direction?
Everything seems to be pointing in that direction. I have, rotating it backwards it stops just shy of where it does rotating it forward. So, rotated backwards timing mark on crank gear stops at 12:01 (looking at it like a clock) rotating it forward and it stops at 11:59.
 

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There's something in a cylinder. :(

There's no other way I can think of to cause what you're describing.

Sorry to bear bad news, but you need to take the other head off.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I'm sure you guys are right unfortunately. I'll pull the other side this week and see what's in there. I've had it covered but it's possible some small creature is using the intake ports as an acorn depository or shitting in the spark plug holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Had a little time to work this afternoon, and started by pulling the passenger side head, which is the one that I just changed. I figured it’s possible a connector or hose on the back of the head could have gotten lodged in the cylinder. What I found when I pulled the head was a small amount of caked up surface rust or dirt collecting at the top of the #4 cylinder so much so that it was causing resistance on the top of the stroke not allowing the piston to break past TDC. I cleaned it up, and oiled the cylinder walls and all seems to be well. Put the head back on, and will try to get it all back together tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
 

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Did you try turning it over with that head off, to see if the other one cleared?

Seems like a lot of work to be unsure.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Did you try turning it over with that head off, to see if the other one cleared?

Seems like a lot of work to be unsure.
I did, about 10 full rotations with the head off. Rotated it periodically while torquing the head back down too just to make sure. All smooth so far, going to put the timing components back on tomorrow and make sure she still rotates freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well, everything is back together. I cranked the engine a few times with the crank sensor unplugged to make sure the new components were primed before firing her up. Once the crank sensor was plugged back in she fired right up. Only problem now is I have a fairly sizable oil leak that seems to be coming from the passenger side rear cylinder head. It was dark by the time I shut it down for the evening so I will need to get back under and confirm. Hoping this is a leaky valve cover gasket and not the head gasket, or a loose oil plug in the head. This car has been one hell of a journey.
 

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That's why I tack them in place with RTV a couple of hours before I try to put them on.

Getting those in place isn't the easiest thing I've dome, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Tonight I pulled the valve covers off and replaced the gaskets. The old gaskets looked super rough, so I was sure that was the issue, but the leak remains. Next step is to get under the car and try to pinpoint the leak. The car actually runs excellent, and is not throwing any codes. I am immediately suspicious of the new head that I put on as the source of this leak. Any chance this could be the head gasket? Just seems strange since there was no leak prior. I am also wondering if one of the threaded oil plugs may be the source. Thoughts?
 

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Unless something bad happened during the install I have doubts it’s the headgaskets, especially if it’s running good. If it is it’s either leaking from the main oil gallery feed which is at the back (for passenger side), or the three drainbacks on the side along the block. If you don’t see oil in those areas that’s not the problem

i still think it might be valve cover, I do the same thing Grog does with RTV to hold them in place after continuously troubleshooting leaks after the PI headswap. It’s possible it’s a loose plug though,
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Unless something bad happened during the install I have doubts it’s the headgaskets, especially if it’s running good. If it is it’s either leaking from the main oil gallery feed which is at the back (for passenger side), or the three drainbacks on the side along the block. If you don’t see oil in those areas that’s not the problem

i still think it might be valve cover, I do the same thing Grog does with RTV to hold them in place after continuously troubleshooting leaks after the PI headswap. It’s possible it’s a loose plug though,
That’s what I was hoping. I’m going to get under the car and see if I can find the source of the leak. Fingers crossed it’s the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Got under the car this afternoon, and when I started it up I saw oil basically pouring out of the 8mm drain hole on the bottom of the head in the back. I removed the plug and put some RTV on it and re-installed which seems to have fixed the oil leak. New issue, I have what appears to be coolant on my oil cap. Milkshake-ish. I pulled all 8 plugs, and they look as they should, no coolant or wetness. Overflow tank looks normal. Oil dipstick has normal oil on it. Next step is to change the oil and coolant which I was going to do anyways. Should I be concerned here, or is it possible in the process of changing the head some outside fluids got in to the oil system? This reman head is a nightmare, I’m now wondering if I should pull the front cover back off and check the freeze plugs on the front of the head. This should be the only place on the head, other than where it meets the block, where coolant would leak correct??
 

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That’s not a drain hole plug, that’s a gallery hole plug. That’ll definitely do it!


“which I was going to do anyways”

So you didn’t drain the oil/coolant when you changed the head, and just topped them off? If so, yes, ASAP. Guaranteed oil got in coolant and coolant in oil when you pulled the head off
 

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Discussion Starter #57
That’s not a drain hole plug, that’s a gallery hole plug. That’ll definitely do it!


“which I was going to do anyways”

So you didn’t drain the oil/coolant when you changed the head, and just topped them off? If so, yes, ASAP. Guaranteed oil got in coolant and coolant in oil when you pulled the head off
I drained both before swapping the head and put fresh oil and coolant back in, but I was going to change at least the oil after running it a few times to flush the system out. Hoping there’s just some cross contamination from the head swap.
 

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I drained both before swapping the head and put fresh oil and coolant back in, but I was going to change at least the oil after running it a few times to flush the system out. Hoping there’s just some cross contamination from the head swap.
Definitely something to keep an eye on. ????

Might just be a little condensation in the oil system - its going to rise to the oil cap when the "water / coolant" boils off. Wipe it clean, keep checking. As long as your oil dipstick isn't coming up looking like milk shake it should be fine. The only possible source of cross contamination after the head gasket change ( major source ) .. is the coolant crossover / oil filter assembly. Just keep checking and as long as the engine is running smoothly you should be OK. (y)(y)(y)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Definitely something to keep an eye on. ????

Might just be a little condensation in the oil system - its going to rise to the oil cap when the "water / coolant" boils off. Wipe it clean, keep checking. As long as your oil dipstick isn't coming up looking like milk shake it should be fine. The only possible source of cross contamination after the head gasket change ( major source ) .. is the coolant crossover / oil filter assembly. Just keep checking and as long as the engine is running smoothly you should be OK. (y)(y)(y)(y)
Good call on this, been running her consistently today and the milkshake has slowly disappeared to almost none on the fill cap.
 
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Discussion Starter #60
Slight update and story on my old motor and heads. I still have the old motor that blew 10+ years ago, and was considering installing my Comp cams in the new PI until... I noticed that I had been running an xe262h and an xe268h. So basically I was daily driving a car with two different cam profiles for 2 years. I’m actually surprised it lasted so long. Last time I buy used cams without checking the details. Hoping this hasn’t happened to anyone else.
 
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