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Ah, a cellulose media filter element.

One made with synthetic fibers will trap smaller particles, and more contaminates with less restriction. An Amsoil filter comes to mind.
 

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Voice/Data Guru
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Discussion Starter #3
Ah, a cellulose media filter element.

One made with synthetic fibers will trap smaller particles, and more contaminates with less restriction. An Amsoil filter comes to mind.
Yep Rush going with better quality filters for our rides .
 

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I don't blame you ThunderChecken. Esp. with that engine described in your sig'. Wow! I'd love to see you run sometime. Do you use a trans brake of any type? If not, any trouble staging with that amount of stall? Y'know, cross over, and trip the stage light if shallow staging. Or, perhaps you deep stage.

Anyway, just curious. Haven't heard much chat about trans brakes, nor preferences to shallow or deep stage, and why one would choose between the two.

Green means go 'cause your already movin'.:D


XR7-4.6 said:
Buick gave us fender port holes
Those port holes are there to help remove/install hard to reach spark plugs with a long extension.:tongue:
 

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Voice/Data Guru
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Discussion Starter #5
No trans brake . Just left foot lol . The staging thing I am still trying to get a handle on ;) Thanks for the complement on the engine, But just a word that one brings up the rear in the "Carolina Crew" lol

Point man is not for me anyway ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
FRAM Extra Guard PH2

01 FORD Taurus 3.0 24 DOHC 181K 5K Oil change

Wife got it on sale, She knows better now. I have no use for there low end filters at all.


 

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http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy39/angelia-01/IMG_0281_zps886c32c7.jpg
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy39/angelia-01/IMG_0282_zps6d126986.jpg
01 FORD Taurus 3.0 24 DOHC 181K 5K Oil change

Wife got it on sale, She knows better now. I have no use for there low end filters at all.

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy39/angelia-01/IMG_0288_zps799252f3.jpg
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy39/angelia-01/IMG_0290_zpsce2cecc1.jpg
How is one better than the other? I've heard the argument on the Honda forums, but people there have stopped telling people which ones to buy and keep buying what works for them.

Personally though, I get the Frahm TG filters (the silver ones) for both my cars.
 

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Voice/Data Guru
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Discussion Starter #8
For one thing MC /WIX/Pur/ have metal end caps and better filtering.I get into the science of oil and such. To each there on. And everyone has there own option on what they feel is best.
 

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Most obvious difference is the Frams don't have a silicone anti-drainback valve.
 

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Beer and Cheese
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The valve stops dirty oil from draining back into the block after the engine is turned off.
 

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And for what its worth to anybody here . Purolator is having issues with torn media in their filters, they have been advised.

Cool view there Rush:) Here is what I use on my rides.

 

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It is important that oil remain in the filter after shut down. Upon start up the flow of oil in the lubrication system starts at the oil pan sump, up the pick up tube, through the oil pump, and then to the filter. From the filter the oil travels directly to the main bearings. If there is no oil in the filter it will take a moment for the pump to fill the filter while meanwhile the main bearings run without oil. A filter with a bypass valve does combat this tendency. Bypass valve, not to be confused with an anti-drain back valve. A quality filter will have both. Note: The bypass valve main purpose is for the oil to bypass the filter in the event of a filter restriction.

It is especially important for a filter to have an anti-drain back valve when the filter screws "sideways" (horizontal) onto the block, since over time gravity will empty the filter. Gravity is not such a factor when a filter is mounted in a vertical position.

This is why many engine designs do have their filters mounted vertical, and remote filters are mounted vertical. Whenever I change the oil in an engine where the filter is mounted vertical, I prime the filter by pouring oil into the filter before I install it so the bearings get oil right away. Not really possible to prime the filter on my stock mounted filter 4.6, because by the time I get the filter into place, and screw it in, much of the oil will drain out in a mess. This occurs even with a filter with an anti-drain back valve because oil will spill out of the center outlet hole.

To be clear (and I've made a correction here since I originally wrote this information), when the engine is off, the spring holds the flap of the valve over the intake holes to block oil from draining back, and when oil pressure is present the flap is pushed away, and the holes open allowing oil to enter into the filter. A simple one way valve.

It is important to consider that a hot filter, mounted sideways, without an anti-drain back valve, will empty in only a few minutes or less. Or, about the time it takes you to buy a big gulp, and return.

On race cars I have built, and driven in the past. we've installed an electric pre-oiler that primes the lubrication system before every start up. We would also run this pump after shut down to cool the engine. And on turbo cars to keep the turbo from coking up. On first start up rebuilds on older engines I've used a ground off teeth oil pump driven gear to drive the oil pump with a long shank slotted screwdriver drill bit, and and electric drill run down the distributor hole. Pressure tank feed to the oil sending unit hole works better tho'.

Anyways...

Here's a exploded view of an Amsoil filter.
Beefy.

 

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The Parts Guy
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On race cars I have built, and driven in the past. we've installed an electric pre-oiler that primes the lubrication system before every start up.
I do the same on the XR7 with an electrically operated valve on a 1-1/2 quart accumulator. No dry starts here. :)

 

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ThunderChecken said:
Cool view there Rush Here is what I use on my rides.
That filter looks to have the same peace of mind parts, and build quality as the Amsoil.

The Amsoil filter for the 4.6 cost between 15-18 dollars. What you pay for one of those? If you don't mind me asking.

racecouger said:
No dry starts here.
Man, you summed up in four words, and a photo what I jammered on about for six paragraphs!
That system looks freckin' nice.

Is that a schrader valve to charge the accumulator with compressed air?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Napa GOLDs are around 6.75 each on-line . Case of 12 is 6.03 each . The wife here has a uncle that owns a NAPA he gives us a great deal on stuff always. Three of the rides here take the same filter so I have a case of 12 ;) NAPA did have them on sale for 4.03 Monday.
 

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Napa GOLDs are around 6.75 each on-line . Case of 12 is 6.03 each . The wife here has a uncle that owns a NAPA he gives us a great deal on stuff always. Three of the rides here take the same filter so I have a case of 12 ;) NAPA did have them on sale for 4.03 Monday.
I'm sold.

Thank you.
 

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50 years of Mercury Cougar 1967/2017
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Here's the buzz kill.
So why does my walmart, Fram, purator, insert any
Cheap filter always dump a filter full of oil the frame,
My arm and the ground with each oil change.

Oil , all filters, anti freeze and most other automotive
products are hype.
To get the masses to buy them.
 

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I do the same on the XR7 with an electrically operated valve on a 1-1/2 quart accumulator. No dry starts here. :)

that reminds me, I need to buy the Canton Accusump setup as well. Is this the one that you are running?
 
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