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Discussion Starter #221
That is some interesting stuff! I admit I have become a bit cynical about engine additives, but this nanotechnology is fascinating.

I used to have an old Suburban with a 350 that burned a lot of oil. At the time, I tried Restore. Restore has CSL, which is just a fancy way of saying copper, silver, and lead are the main ingredients. It never seemed to do much, but I never performed any compression tests, either... This was before I became a car guy; all I cared about the the oil consumption.

Since then, I have wondered if those additives are wasted, caught by the filter. It seems to me that large particles would be captured, and smaller ones would not be able to to any appreciable "repair". I just don't know enough about it...

In the case of CSL in Restore each particle is spherical in shape and average less than ten microns in diameter which allows them to pass through the oil filter and circulate along with the motor oil.
 

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Okay, so what's the consensus on which filter is the best? :tongue:

Been using Motorcraft on this car but I'm switching to Amsoil on the Mustang for the next oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #227
Dave from 3 to 5K OCI ,the MC is a excellent filter ,The Napa Gold/Wix is in the same ballpark .

If your going for long OCI the FRAM's Ultra is one of the best made with hi filtration efficiency .

IMPO Amsoil Ea filter is no better than the FRAM Ultra.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Maybe, from what I understand purolater has been taking note of the complaints and has stepped up to the QC issue. I or no customer of ours use them. And a note on a MC on the 4.0L Ranger here , Start up rattle bad, Wix filter on no more noise. It does like them things .
 

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odd that a filter would make much difference to a 4.0 rattle since most of their problems were broken springs inside the chain tentioners.

suppose if the drain-back valve kept the tenstioners pumped up longer maybe, but it would be better too just change the tenstioners out and be done with it. their accessible from outside the motor, one from under the hood, and the other through the passenger side fender well with a 3 foot extension :p

seen two ohc 4.0s explode that way when the chain skips a tooth on the cam gear and pistons meat valves. one of them was my boss's out in the parking lot, after i told him for weeks he needed to have that fixed before the poo hit the fan. :D

otherwise my fathers old 93 pushrod 4.0 didn't care what filter it got, the lifters rattled constantly since the cam bearings wore out at around 100k and wouldn't pressurize the lifters anymore. still got 200+ out of it before we just swapped a lower millage powertrain in too go on a long trip.

still running MC filters here, my FL1s have never given me any trouble, nore did the 820, and they make a considerable difference in the startup knock on mine. tried the WIX once (and i love WIX dont get me wrong) and they made her clatter like crasy on startup for about 2 days till i swapped them back out for MC.

the orange drainback valve in the MC just looks like a much better quality piece then most other filters ive seen, including WIX. probably because ford has so much issue with the modular startup knock.
 

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Maybe, from what I understand purolater has been taking note of the complaints and has stepped up to the QC issue.
Good to hear! This will help Purolator's reputation. It seems a lot of guys stopped using them...
 

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Discussion Starter #234 (Edited)
Bad Things Happen If You Don't Change Your Oil

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_ZsnLKIhcT0?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

A world apart .

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZVuKp5M3de8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Our new site

Just wanted to let you know we started a new website. Putting in my time building it up "Work in progress " :zspot:

If you get a chance, come by for a visit.

Thanks.
 

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odd that a filter would make much difference to a 4.0 rattle since most of their problems were broken springs inside the chain tentioners.

suppose if the drain-back valve kept the tenstioners pumped up longer maybe, but it would be better too just change the tenstioners out and be done with it. their accessible from outside the motor, one from under the hood, and the other through the passenger side fender well with a 3 foot extension :p

seen two ohc 4.0s explode that way when the chain skips a tooth on the cam gear and pistons meat valves. one of them was my boss's out in the parking lot, after i told him for weeks he needed to have that fixed before the poo hit the fan. :D

otherwise my fathers old 93 pushrod 4.0 didn't care what filter it got, the lifters rattled constantly since the cam bearings wore out at around 100k and wouldn't pressurize the lifters anymore. still got 200+ out of it before we just swapped a lower millage powertrain in too go on a long trip.

still running MC filters here, my FL1s have never given me any trouble, nore did the 820, and they make a considerable difference in the startup knock on mine. tried the WIX once (and i love WIX dont get me wrong) and they made her clatter like crasy on startup for about 2 days till i swapped them back out for MC.

the orange drainback valve in the MC just looks like a much better quality piece then most other filters ive seen, including WIX. probably because ford has so much issue with the modular startup knock.
The orange valve means it is made of silicone versus rubber. The Purolator Pure One has one too, but ford specs the valve to be on the opposite end compared to other filters.
 

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The orange valve means it is made of silicone versus rubber. The Purolator Pure One has one too, but ford specs the valve to be on the opposite end compared to other filters.
I think you're thinking of the bypass. From what I've seen the purolator, wix and motorcraft ADBV are all at the threaded end and are silicone.

However, only the purolator and motorcraft have the bypass at the threaded end, whereas I believe the Wix has it on the dome end.

According to FoMoCo a thread end bypass is better than a dome end bypass, because, again according to FoMoCo, a dome end bypass could allow unfiltered oil into the engine during a bypass (think really cold starts).

Marketing gimmick? Maybe. I dunno, I'm running Wix in both of my Fords now after seeing all the torn motorcraft filter media. IMHO torn media for possibly an entire OCI is way way worse for an engine than a couple teaspoons of oil being unfiltered during a cold start.
 

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I think you're thinking of the bypass. From what I've seen the purolator, wix and motorcraft ADBV are all at the threaded end and are silicone.

However, only the purolator and motorcraft have the bypass at the threaded end, whereas I believe the Wix has it on the dome end.

According to FoMoCo a thread end bypass is better than a dome end bypass, because, again according to FoMoCo, a dome end bypass could allow unfiltered oil into the engine during a bypass (think really cold starts).

Marketing gimmick? Maybe. I dunno, I'm running Wix in both of my Fords now after seeing all the torn motorcraft filter media. IMHO torn media for possibly an entire OCI is way way worse for an engine than a couple teaspoons of oil being unfiltered during a cold start.
I've had a friend take apart the FL400s and the Purolator version, the ADBV are at opposite ends. What ford says is that their design keeps more oil in the system or something like that.

What oil filter do i use: Motorcraft 820S, it is 3.97 at walmart and is a good bang for the buck

What oil do i use: Mobil super 5000 5W30, i am possibly going to start using synthetic in the 1996, after i determine if it burns any or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #240
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