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I'd rather sift my oil through a used shop rag then spin a fram filter onto my car. I always use Wix, Napa gold or motorcraft filters on all of my vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Amsoil have never heard to much about them , but what I have heard and read good products. And most are right the "orange can" is a oil soaked cardboard mess. But there is a lot of folks that claim that the FRAM top of the line filters are some of the best there is and even the orange bomb . They can have them . The PUR's and MC's are having some big issues with blown out & torn media people have been complaining and PUR has been sending out PPRP for the filter to be returned to QC . I have a case of golds that I received a good price on so going that route for awhile . Looking forward to cutting and inspecting them for each ride . 2.18 "Sabata" :D

Opened up my case of GOLD's and looks like they have moved the SBPV to the bottom. Might have to sacrifice this one to fine out more.

 

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I have been told by more than one parts store manager that Wix is one of the better filters on the market. The same managers told me that after attending seminars on oil filters that they would never buy and use another Fram filter...never! Just thought I would throw that out there.
 

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I've been using Motorcraft on the Cougar, and Wix on the Dakota. Turns out they both have identical threads for the center, and gasket mounting surfaces - I MAY be going to Wix on both, with the FL1A (?) sized filter.

One thing I do on a change is to preload the oil filter with oil. Why, yes, I CAN get the filter on the Cougar without spilling it if I'm careful ... new motor mounts help a lot.

RwP
 

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Amsoil have never heard to much about them , but what I have heard and read good products. And most are right the "orange can" is a oil soaked cardboard mess. But there is a lot of folks that claim that the FRAM top of the line filters are some of the best there is and even the orange bomb . They can have them . The PUR's and MC's are having some big issues with blown out & torn media people have been complaining and PUR has been sending out PPRP for the filter to be returned to QC . I have a case of golds that I received a good price on so going that route for awhile . Looking forward to cutting and inspecting them for each ride . 2.18 "Sabata" :D

Opened up my case of GOLD's and looks like they have moved the SBPV to the bottom. Might have to sacrifice this one to fine out more.

The Napa Gold oil filters are made by WIX, actually says it on the back of the box and Napa oil is Vavoline.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Yes I know very well that NAPA's are a good WIX. And MC made by PUR.
 

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Way back when lol. Was on the fram band wagon. After a few internet searches and a few cut open filters. Motorcraft or ford racing filters since. Ford even had a TSB on this. If engine has a start up tick/knock or oil pressure issues , look to see if there is a fram there.

edited
Just looked for the TSB , been a few years. The original one that said look for a fram is gone. And has been reworded lol.
Check the type of oil filter installed on the vehicle. A dirty or clogged filter may cause a pressure drop. Look for aftermarket brands not recognized in the market or a production filter that has gone beyond the standard Ford recommended change interval.
 

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Bought a Napa Gold filter today. It was $6.70 here at Dodge City.
 

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Ford Racing filters

:wavey:

I use Racing filters. mostly above $10.00each.
blended oil (20w50)

I cooked an engine with a cheep filter.

My engine builder said. Wix Gold or better. NO FRAM!

A $10.00 filter is cheep insurance on a $3000.00 engine.
that's with factory parts.

:ssalute:
 

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Discussion Starter #52
:wavey:

I use Racing filters. mostly above $10.00each.
blended oil (20w50)

I cooked an engine with a cheep filter.

My engine builder said. Wix Gold or better. NO FRAM!

A $10.00 filter is cheep insurance on a $3000.00 engine.
that's with factory parts.

:ssalute:
Exactly right Paul.
 

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Just curious is the SBPV on the top or bottom ?
It's on the top of the filter. Opposite the base plate.

To be clear, because I'm not sure what one would call the top and bottom of an oil filter, here is a photo showing the bypass valve down at the, ah, top of the Napa Gold. When purchased I said, "I have a 95 Ford Thunderbird lx, with a 4.6, and would like a Napa Gold oil filter". This is what he gave me, Napa# 1372.

This is opposite where the bypass valve is in the photo of the filter you posted. So I'm wondering if it makes any difference, and what would be the OEM location? Or, perhaps the filter originally installed at the factor did not have a bypass valve.

[/URL][/IMG]
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Looks the same to me. NAPA# 1372 here. I have found out that on some models for the gold the valve is in the bottom so its good to go.

I looked at all the 12 I have and they are all the same.

Here is the MC to the GLD .

 

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Anybody else using the K&N oil filters? I've used them the last few changes on my '97 with no issues. I did some internet research before switching to them, and the feedback was positive.
 

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Looks the same to me. NAPA# 1372 here. I have found out that on some models for the gold the valve is in the bottom so its good to go.

I looked at all the 12 I have and they are all the same.
Yeah, I don't think it makes any difference.

So now I'm thinking how that valve actually works to bypass the filter yet still allowing oil into the engine. It must open a path for the oil to go from the outer part of the filter directly to the inner outlet part without going through the filter element.

When the filter is working properly, the valve is closed, but if the element is blocked pressure in the outer chamber opens the valve.

Or, perhaps I have that backwards, and a lack of pressure in the inner chamber "sucks" the valve open when it drops below a certain level. Technically, there would be a difference in design of the spring/valve configuration. But, six of one, half a dozen of another. If there is a differential in pressure between the two chambers the valve moves.

The salesman at the parts store showed me a list of features on his computer screen, and it said the valve is calibrated at 16 lbs.

IIRC, the book says the operating pressure of the stock engine is 20 psi..

That seems low to me. I wonder what an actual gauge would read.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Here is the specs I have on the gold/wix.

Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Plets 57
Height: 2.577
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=15/22
Burst Pressure-PSI: 300
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21"

Mike personally I for one have not heard very much on the K&N , Here is a sales pitch from MC comparing to the KN.
 

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ThunderChecken,

Thanks, that illustration is helpful. Although I have had no issues with the K&N, and appreciate the convenience of the 1" nut on the end, it is expensive and clearly not better than the Motorcraft. I will likely switch back when I next buy a filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Most welcome Mike.

Guy's if you ever need to get a cheap filter in a pinch the Advance Auto"s Drivework's is made very well, This is the thickest can I have yet to cut. Not sure about the filter media but time will tell.
60 pleats & 125 inches of media area.






 

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ThunderChecken,

Thanks, that illustration is helpful. Although I have had no issues with the K&N, and appreciate the convenience of the 1" nut on the end, it is expensive and clearly not better than the Motorcraft. I will likely switch back when I next buy a filter.
Mike, I am using the K&N filter now and thanks to Darren's info, I will be switching to the Wix Gold on my next oil change, I had no issues with the K&N, Just the price
 
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