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20 cents difference? 1.20 a year between 3 cars, yes, yes I will get a Motorcraft over Fram.


 

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Discussion Starter #122
MoreParts oil filter

Flying-Low........... Here is a MOPAR 5281090 made by Purolator.

A very thin canister it is .



Overall Filter Length = 3.88 inches
Overall Filter Diameter = 3.69 inches
Cartridge Length = 2.68 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter = 3.25 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter = 1.63 inches
Cartridge Pleats = 62
Cartridge End Cap Type = Stamped-steel, with bypass valve
Anti-Drainback Valve Type = Nitrile rubber diaphragm
Bypass Valve Type = Spring-loaded steel, nitrile seal
Element Type = Paper media, stamped metal seam
Element Length = 96.0 inches
Element Width = 2.50 inches
Element Surface Area = 240 square inches
Shell Thickness = 0.010 inches
Backplate Thickness = 0.12 inches
Gasket Type = Nitrile rubber




BVT


 

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I've noticed the MC can to be very thin also. I crushed mine trying to get it off and dinted the new one getting it on. I can't be the only one..

I think I might try that Fram extended gaurd you talked about on the next oil change. I also prefer the paint finish grip as it seems to work much better with my oil filter wrench.

Darren, what would you say are the top 3 oil filters for our cars? (Price included as I would buy amsoil but at $20 I gotta pass..)
 

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Discussion Starter #124
The MC FL820S is the best value-for-money IMO. The best ADBV that's out there.

The thin canister pops like a grape. :boom:

The Fram extra guard is made with the cardboard/filter in-caps . Fram I would not go

for anything under a Ultra , but a lot of people would disagree .

Wix/Napa filters are made very well and reasonably priced .

Mann is a good filter

About all the hi-end synthetic filters are in the same ball-park.

If I had to pick three that I have worked with

Wix/Napa GOLD or Platinum

Fram Ultra Synthetic Filter.

Motorcraft
 

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i'm definitely starting to consider getting some napa's after reading this. i'm just sort of worried about the back-flow valve. i know the motorcraft has been the best ive tried so far for the startup knocks i have.

i actually had to change the wix filters after the first few days because they just wouldn't stop clattering every start-up even after only 4 or five hours of sitting. motorcrafts i can go for at least 8 hours and still be fine on startup, maybe a split second rattle. got pretty tired of using the flooded engine cleanout to crank the motor over before going to work, going to lunch, going to the store, going home, etc...

i'm also going to be switching over to the 0w30 next time around to see if it helps with quicker startup lubrication. lot more expensive being syn, but if it works, ill run it.

love looking at all the filters cut open, reminds me of working in the walmart TLE. some of the filters i used to see makes me wish i had a cellphone camera back then....

i saw a fram one time that looked like it was packed with old grease and metal shavings. needless too say the motor sounded like their were elves inside with hammers trying to get out. :D
 

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had some fun with a mileguard off a 1.9 saturn i recently bought and sold. it was obviously run way over millage. always good to run a cheep stiffylube oil change for far too long. cant remember what the sticker said, but it was 4000+ pretty sure the previous owner was just adding oil for the common 1.9 consumption issue, it was almost a half quart overfull



i also cut this cute little thing open for giggles. its an ATF filter off the same saturn, 190k on it >.> was leaking like a sieve... thought it might be interesting :)


 

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I would still stay away from wix after every car I had them on from Ford on down knocked upon every cold start, if you have to buy a beyond 5.00 oil filter from a company to get something that wont break apart or cause cold start knock your getting hustled every oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #129 (Edited)
nail-one.... Looks like its been used very well. but held up well ;) About the thin canisters on a MC check out this video......... Rock, drill bitt, :zdunno:

<object width="420" height="315"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/v/gE3Pmco5qlM?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/gE3Pmco5qlM?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="420" height="315" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>

Edit :
Also on a note about the "knocking" . We have WIX on four Fords & two Dodges and not a one "knocks" on start-up.
 

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yeah, pretty sure mileguards are made by fram from the look of them. that motor also had a thin film of sludge on everything when i had the valvecover off. it was pretty gross...

and wix is a pretty good filter overall, i like them, run them on just about everything.

except.... my bird, like i said, even with my filter relocation kit the two vertical mounted 51515's clattered every start up, not matter if she was off for 8 hours of 20 min.

but that being said, motorcrafts do have a better backflow valve. pretty sure motorcraft made that decision because of the early modular engines have such trouble with drystarts.
 

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I worked for a place that only used wix filters, I could get the best one for 5 bucks or the base one for 2, all my cars except the Honda knocked every morning on them, Wix casing is made real well as is their internals, something is definately not right with their antidrainback valve. I use Motorcraft on my Ford, but use the Purolator on everything else and am more than satisfied everyday when I turn the key and the motor doesn't knock on the first initial startup, Frams are way too chinsey for me to be content, if they can't cut it with their cheap base ones no way will I spend more money to buy their so called better one, it makes no sense what so ever, if their base filter was good I'd be more willing to consider their better filter, I've even used Bosch with the same cold start knock result. My opinion is certain types of filters even though they may be universal to fit on more than one brand of vehicle are designed to work best with certain types of oil pumps but can't be made to fully suit all, so it is just a matter of finding the one the works best with your particular car. I can use any brand of filter on my japanese cars but my Ford and Dodge are more favorable with 1 or 2 brands and that's it, almost like spark plugs, I like it best when the engine sounds healthy and quiet so that's my exact reason for not just buying based on price or opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Why Oil Goes Bad

Thought I would share this.


In general, all in-service lubricants will fail at some point. That being said, there are numerous ways to manage the condition of a lubricating oil and extend its life significantly. There are three primary causes that necessitate an oil change: degradation of the base oil, depletion of additives and contamination. Some of these conditions can be remediated, yet others cannot.

Base Oil Degradation
Base oil degradation may be the most common reason for oil failure. The most common type of base oil failure is likely oxidation. When oil oxidizes, the primary by-products are acid and insoluble materials, which can lead to serious surface deposits and corrosive wear. To address this problem, most lubricants are formulated with antioxidants, but they don't last forever.

Like many lubricant additives, oxidation inhibitors are used up as they perform their intended function. Once these additives are consumed, the base oil begins to oxidize. Many factors contribute to oxidation including heat, contaminants and base oil quality. Oil temperature plays a large role in the rate of oxidation. For every 10-degree Celsius increase in oil temperature, the rate of oxidation doubles.

Contaminants also cause significant changes to the rate of oxidation, acting as catalysts for the reaction or, in the case of air, providing one of the reagents. Certain wear metals can dramatically increase the rate of this reaction, especially in the presence of water.

The quality of the base oil used in the lubricant plays a role as well. Lower quality base oils tend to contain more inherently unstable constituents such as aromatics and other unsaturated hydrocarbons which more readily react with oxygen.

In addition to oxidation, base oils can fail due to thermal degradation, hydrolysis and various chemical reactions with contaminants. While mineral base oils and polyalphaolefins (PAO) have good hydrolytic stability, several types of synthetics are prone to reacting with water, which forms corrosive acids.

While it may be impractical to forever prevent base oil from failing, we can dramatically impact the oil's life by managing the influencing factors. Managing the oil's temperature, selecting a good-quality base oil, monitoring antioxidant concentration, and preventing or removing contamination goes a long way toward extending the lubricant's service life.

Additive Depletion
Although many additives such as antioxidants enhance the properties of the base oil, other additives perform functions the base oil cannot. Antiwear, extreme pressure, detergents and dispersants are examples of such additives. Even if a lubricant's base oil is in good condition, the lubricant can no longer perform all of its duties when certain additives are depleted and, therefore, must be changed.

Additives are depleted by a number of different mechanisms. Water can react with certain additives (hydrolysis), and also can attract and remove others (water washing). Some additives are removed by particle contaminants (particle scrubbing), and others are simply used up when performing their intended functions.

Once again, these processes cannot always be eliminated, but they can be minimized. By using a well-chosen lubricant, maintaining proper oil temperature and controlling contamination, we can prevent any unnecessary additive loss, thereby extending the useful life of the lubricant.

It is possible to replace additives by draining and replacing a portion of the sump's volume. This is typically referred to as sweetening the oil. Otherwise, concentrated additives may be added to in-service oil under controlled conditions. However, this type of re-additization requires a significant level of expertise and may be cost-prohibitive for most systems.

Contamination
Many types of contaminants contribute to the degradation of lubricating oils, but that's not the worst of it. Of course, we all know that contaminants such as particles are responsible for the majority of mechanical wear in many machine components. Because of this, we often change oil before it fails, simply to remove the contamination.

For systems with no means of contamination removal, such as mechanical filters, this is the only way to control contaminants and ensure proper lubricating conditions. However, changing oil to remove contamination will be only partially effective, at best. When the oil is changed in most machines, a significant portion of the old contaminated oil is left behind.

Additionally, the new oil is likely to be contaminated already, unless it was properly filtered before application. It is, therefore, more effective to prevent contamination and/or have the means to remove it from the machine through the use of good filtration, contamination exclusion and proper handling methods for new oil.

Extending the life of your lubricants, for the most part, is a worthwhile endeavor. If you examine the cost of changing the oil in the average machine, you might be shocked to see what you spend. The keys to achieving maximum life from lubricants are proper selection, temperature management, good oil analysis and contamination control.

Just remember to keep the oil clean, cool and dry.

By the Noria Corporation
 

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Excellent post. Some really good information. Thanks for posting.

It brings to mind that even if the oil has not been run to its regular service interval in mileage, it still should be changed having set there in the sump, because of the condensation of water forming in the engine over time. IIRC after about 90 days.

I remind myself of this fact since my T-bird sits for months at a time, and is never driven.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Excellent post. Some really good information. Thanks for posting.

It brings to mind that even if the oil has not been run to its regular service interval in mileage, it still should be changed having set there in the sump, because of the condensation of water forming in the engine over time. IIRC after about 90 days.

I remind myself of this fact since my T-bird sits for months at a time, and is never driven.
Thank you sir... True on the storage issue. I am sure mine is in the top 5 on the "garage queen " list :)
 

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I really appreciate the work that went into this -- very informative!

Explains why my old 94 Taurus would knock on cold starts with any oil filters but MC -- of course those rod bearings were pretty much gone when I got the car.
 

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Excellent post. Some really good information. Thanks for posting.

It brings to mind that even if the oil has not been run to its regular service interval in mileage, it still should be changed having set there in the sump, because of the condensation of water forming in the engine over time. IIRC after about 90 days.

I remind myself of this fact since my T-bird sits for months at a time, and is never driven.
90 days is good but at least in the Spring and Fall (twice a year) due to temperature change.
 

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Dang, once I filled the oil pan with rain water when I had my 289 Pinto.
I left the hood off.
Not realizing there was water in the oil I drove it.
I noticed grey foam around the breathers when I stopped for gas.
I checked the oil, grey.

I said oh well, its not knocking, I drove it, once I got home the oil was dark brown.
No issues.:D
 

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Neat article. Interesting where it states that Standard of Indiana had a research program to develop synthetic oil in the 1930's. Says Germans did develop synthetic oil for their use in tanks during the battle of Stalingrad, because of the cold weather. Didn't realize the stuff went back that far. First time I ever heard of synthetics was Amsoil in the early 80's.

Well I'll be darn. Isn't that a Pinto in the photo? Or is that a Mercury Bobcat?
 
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