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Discussion Starter #1
Figured this was more of a general tech item then a specific engine item but has anyone ever used one of those multiple ground wire kits on their mn12/fn10?

I know this is really much more popular with the import crowds but figured I'd see if anyone here has/had any expierence with them. I have an ase in automotive electronics so I understand the multiple ground theory reducing overall resistance to the common point (battery negative) obviously I do not believe for a second that it adds 2-20hp lmao that's a snow balls chance in he!! unless your car has severe ground problems to begin with and was always functioning with an excessive electrical load, not to mention dyno variations between one run and another with no changes. I'm going to be doing a mark viii engine swap in the somewhat near future (different topic all together) but figured I might give one a shot seeing as how most of the dohc swap fail points were due to ground issues prior to initial start up.

Opinions, prior/current user feedback are all welcome. Just trying to get some opinions and third party perspectives.
 

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Send a PM to SCTBIRD1994 he is doing a mark viii DOHC swap and did all kinds of custom wiring - if anyone would have an answer for you I bet he would
 

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IMO the only drawback to extra ground wire(s) is weight, as for adding hp 20, I doubt it, 2 maybe not probable.

I am going to be upgrading my wiring tomorrow(Big 3). I will be adding an extra battery to chassis ground and an extra engine to chassis ground. Is it necessary no, can it hurt absolutely not. It's also a great fail-safe If your old ass wire breaks or corrodes horribly you wont be dead on the road trying to find it.
 

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Upgrading grounds can never hurt. But if you are going to do it, then do the big three and add the alternator to battery power wire as well. This will help with any charging or volts issues you may have.
 

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I had an old Honda Prelude and they use a chinsy 8-10 gauge ground, and power. I had a decent stereo system in it, and I actually had the engine stall from the stereo. I then took the car into our shop, and made a 4 gauge ground to engine, and enging to body. I used 2 gauge from the battery to the starter, and I had to use 8 to go to the Alternator as there was no room. I noticed that the car did run a little bit better, but no I don't think even 2hp. If you want to save weight then instead of a lead/acid or an Optima use a Dry Cell. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Send a PM to SCTBIRD1994 he is doing a mark viii DOHC swap and did all kinds of custom wiring - if anyone would have an answer for you I bet he would
Just finished making my swap harness :) modified a few things added a few wires also going to lengthen a few and do the harness a bit different then most. I need to finish getting the motor prepped though I've been dragging my feet. Life happens you know.
 

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Just finished making my swap harness :) modified a few things added a few wires also going to lengthen a few and do the harness a bit different then most. I need to finish getting the motor prepped though I've been dragging my feet. Life happens you know.
Oh yeah...how many miles on that DOHC you're swapping over?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
190k on the odo but it was rebuilt 1 year 12k before I bought it with new ford timing chains, new bearings, new rings, and cheap seals lol. I'll be redoing all of the previously replaced gaskets with ford and felpro gaskets. I tore it down pretty far and the paperwork seems acurate but I'm going to micrometer everything and plastigage everything just to verify tolerances for my own piece of mind.
 

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I dont recall anybody swapping a Mark engine having issues getting it started, but then again they are so few and far between and half of them never finish.

Leaving a ground wire unhooked and having too much resistance are totally different things. I dont believe any of the ground wiring on these cars are inadequate for a relatively stock vehicle ( as long as they are not corroded ). Only the engine ground wire goes directly to the battery, the rest are all tied to the chassis and then to the battery.

Just finished my 2nd Mark swap, but I am using all stock Mark wiring and EEC.
 

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