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Discussion Starter #21
Thank you for that information. My main concern was being able to rotate tires from front to rear and not running into any issues with the wheels not fitting both of the hubs (front & rear). I was actually planning on using the Mustang rotors and actually found yesterday on Rock Auto the dimensions for the front rotors for both the Mustang and Thunderbird are the same as far as overall diameter as well as the hub center diameter. The only difference being the bolt pattern between the two. As far as the front calipers, since the rotors are basically the same size, wouldn't the stock Thunderbird calipers still be able to be used? Again, thanks for any info.
You could use the single piston tbird brake calipers but as others have pointed out, using the dual piston calipers from a 99-04 mustang GT is a significant upgrade. The reman parts are cheap and enables something like 50% more pad. It's the first brake upgrade most people do on the tbird even with the stock rotors and stock caliper bracket. Search for pbr brake upgrade. There are some nuances that you need to be aware of but you can find them out by reading the threads.

The only reason you'd run into issues is if your stock setup were sport brakes. In that scenario, your rotors would be a different size (11.5" to 10.9" or something like that) so the caliper brackets would be wrong if you go to a mustang rotor.
 

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Thanks for that. I will definitely look into the brake upgrade. One other question, after re-drilling the stock rear hubs, is it better to remove the old lug studs or leave them in and cut them flush with the hub face? Thanks.
 

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... after re-drilling the stock rear hubs, is it better to remove the old lug studs or leave them in and cut them flush with the hub face? Thanks.
Knock out the old lug studs BEFORE redrilling; pull new studs in the new holes.

RwP
 

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It was my impression that the drill guide for re-drilling the rear hub and rotor is attached to the original lugs while drilling.
 

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It was my impression that the drill guide for re-drilling the rear hub and rotor is attached to the original lugs while drilling.
Is it?

If so, then drill THEN knock the old studs out.

(Or knock the old studs out, then put a regular set of bolts and nuts in to hold the guide. It's not that difficult; the studs being out will make it a lot easier to manipulate the flange while drilling.)

RwP
 

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I double checked and the drill guide uses the original lugs and nuts to hold it in place while drilling. So, the general consensus is to knock out the old studs after drilling and not cut them off flush with the hub? I was just wondering if it would help with the strength of the hub in leaving the head & shoulder of the old lugs still in the original holes or if it would matter at all leaving them out.
 

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Twisting the bolt flange on the wheel hubs is not anything you're ever going to do, lol.

Extra holes or not.

The axles will fail Way before then.

The problem with cutting them off would be if they fell out later and jammed into the knuckle.
You could cut them flush, and tack weld them in place to make sure that doesn't happen.

:)

You can buy new hubs from summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-1109-a

No one drills the fronts; they buy the mustang hubs.
 

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Thanks everyone for all the help and info. I'm going to go with Mustang hubs, rotors, and calipers from Rock Auto for the front. For the back, I'm going to purchase the drill guide and drill the stock rotors and hubs. And thanks Grog6, I had not thought of the possibility of the lugs falling out (even though they fit pretty tight, you never know) so I will knock them out after drilling.
 

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Discussion Starter #30

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Discussion Starter #32
So how is he going to get his mustang bolt pattern wheels over his tbird bolt pattern rear axle hub?
You can buy new hubs from summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-1109-a

No one drills the fronts; they buy the mustang hubs.
Maybe this? <img src="http://forums.tccoa.com/images/smilies/vb2_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
I get buying front hubs but for the rears
$300 is more than I spent on a couple of mice Thunderbird donor cars

If I had to do this, I would be inclined to redrill the rears and swap in new bearings. Even if he Hayes a machine shop to do the work after knocking out the old lugs, it would be less than three hundred bucks all In.
 

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The price I see on those hubs is $163; I paid $200 for the hubs (with ARP studs), when they quit selling them for a while, of course, and ~100 for the reloc brackets.

Drilling was a $250 fixture, $50 in bits, and iffy results, depending on skill.

(Actually, I just checked, It's only $100, my bad memory.)

I'm happy with the sure thing, personally.

Is that worth $100, as I said, depends on skill. :)

YMMV, as they say.

Trashed Tbirds/cougars sell for $500 here, no problem.
 

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I have Cobra hubs, but if I could do it over again, I’d absolutely go the redrill route
I considered it, but I've drilled 1/4" steel before, and the time, hassle and materials were not really worth it to me; I'm doing too many other things.

You can drill the stock rotors too, and keep the stock brake rotors. But the cobra rotors are better, in my eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I considered it, but I've drilled 1/4" steel before, and the time, hassle and materials were not really worth it to me; I'm doing too many other things.

You can drill the stock rotors too, and keep the stock brake rotors. But the cobra rotors are better, in my eyes.
Going from Mustang -> TBIRD bolt pattern:
FWIW, I showed up at a machine shop I use for my engine work with the cobra front rotors, my old tbird hub with the studs punched out as a guide, and asked them to drill them for me.
I think I paid $120 to drill 4 rotors and it took them ~1hr (being generous) With their own drill bits.

This is with Bay Area CA labor rates. I'd assume most other places in the country have a labor rate closer to 1/2 that per hour.


In the OPs case, I suspect that with a little more setup work, you could use the mustang rotors as a guide instead of buying the fixture
You merely have to remove the tbird rear hubs and punch out the old studs.
You would then center the mustang rotors in the center of the rear hubs (maybe use hub centric rings like these https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Polycarbon-Plastics-hub-centric-rings-vehicle-side-63-9mm-to-rims-side-70-4mm-/172382606932) and finally mark the center of each of holes in the rotor on the hubs.
A decent machinist should have no problems doing that.
They would then drill 5 holes per hub in the spot required to pull/press the studs through. The drilled holes have to be the right size for your chosen studs.
You could then use a nut to suck the studs through the new holes OR just have them press the studs in using a shop press.
If you are friendly enough with the shop, you can probably do the press in yourselves while they drill the holes for you.
 
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