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Discussion Starter #1
:( And, they are not tight,as when I put the wrench on them,I can see the bolt deflect sideways.I have a brand new Ford pi alum/plastic mani in a box.The car is in the garage.It it supposed to be getting its mani removed. So here is my thought: I am certain that the bolts are going to break. I am thinking of drilling angled holes thru the manifold (which is now junk) to the bolt passage about 1/4" off the bottom. I will let these be my fluid reservoirs for thead unlocker. I'll periodically add more juice,and rap the bolts with light hammer blows,plus try to un-stick them. Have you guys tried this before? What's the best thread unlocker I can get,and where do I find it? If that shows no return,I'll have to drill the bolt heads off and just work directly at the remaining studs. Has anyone had good success just twisting off the remaining studs? thanks , edman
 

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Baby Huey
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If they break buy new bolts, a few dollars but a lot less work.
 

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don't damage the head
 

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One of mine broke off when I tried to remove it. The reason was that the factory cadmium plating had worn off from being removed a few times without anti-seize compound on them. Once I had the manifold off, I soaked it liberally with PB Blaster for a couple of days (the best since you asked) and had to use a really good set of vice grips to grab the bolt shank and slowly get it out. It was not easy, but I did it. Then I replaced with new bolts and anti-seize.

Oh, I also chased the holes with the appropriate tap to clean any rust out of the threads. If you can do that, it would help too.
 

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One of mine broke off when I tried to remove it. The reason was that the factory cadmium plating had worn off from being removed a few times without anti-seize compound on them. Once I had the manifold off, I soaked it liberally with PB Blaster for a couple of days (the best since you asked) and had to use a really good set of vice grips to grab the bolt shank and slowly get it out. It was not easy, but I did it. Then I replaced with new bolts and anti-seize.

Oh, I also chased the holes with the appropriate tap to clean any rust out of the threads. If you can do that, it would help too.
Geez, where were you when "I" needed you? lol
 

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silikroil
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I drilled 1/8" holes thru the manifold.

One angled hole about an inch up from bottom for each bolt. I filled each "reservoir" up with pb blaster. The bolts are still not turning, but they are loaded with unlocker.One of the bolts is already able to be turned a half turn either way. There is a sleeve inside the manifold, and it is easy to stop when it's drilled thru. I don't know how this is going to ultimately work, but having a head of pb blaster over the threads seems like a great idea. I'm going in the garage right now to top them off.
 

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If you can turn it a bit each way, keep doing that every so often, it will help work the PB Blaster down into the threads.

BTW, once you get the new intake on, you'll want to drain and flush the coolant as there's no way to keep the PB out of the coolant....and it's not the best thing to have running around in your system.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The results are in , success!

Wow, and I was only on my second day! Once I was able to get a fraction of a turn going, I would fill the reservour and go back and forth, trying to go farther each turn. So, this works. And for anyone who is not removing his manifold, this can still work for you too. All you'll have as a scar is a 1/8" hole that you can put a dolop of silicone on as a seal. When I get my new pi manifold installed, the threads for the thermostat bolts will have been chased, and the new bolts will be loaded with antiseize. I actually thought I was still going to be on this thru Friday.
 
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