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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Here's a short video i put togather. To show the people that havn't seen the gas work before. The actual difference it makes 0-60. I was extreamly impressed by the stuff. I did these 0-60 runs using a 75 shot.

http://home.comcast.net/~racingcoupe/RobR_0-60_Nitrous.wmv

Sincerely,
Rob "CRASH" Repucci:thumbsup:
 

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Heavily Medicated Crime Fighter
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Great runs and I must say the video was very well done. Did you happen to make a run with nitrous on with an empty nitrous tank? Just giving you a hard time man :)

Do you still have the factory fuel pump?

Again great video.

Best regards

Mark

 

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good video, makes me want nitrous even more. are you using a window switch? on the 3rd run you can really see when the n2o kicks in by watching the tach.

Frank
 

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What mods do you have besides nitrous? That's nice to see! I want a bottle! That's dipping into some good 0-60 times.

And I lost an e-Bay auction for a brand new $700 value N.O.S. 'Stang kit by $50.

*waits for time slips N/A and sprayed from Rob Repucci who "shouldn't have a license" ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the great compliments. Sorry it took me so long to reply. Mark i actually had nitrous in the bottle this time. So it finnaly worked lol. Im actually not using a window kit. But getting one would really be in my best interest. Esspecially since i sprayed a little on the early side. I actually havn't made it to the track with the nitrous working yet. But i managed to run a 15.1 N/A on a nice cold night. I did try the nitrous that night but it didn't spray "the bottle was empy" lol. Im hoping to bring it to the track for some good numbers this spring. And as for Mark's setup you'd never even know he had it. Untill he blows by you, just ask Warren lol. He has a sweet setup. But the nitrous was the way to go for cheap HP. Its honestly safe as long as you use it in moderation. Hey if CRASH can use it fairly safe anyone can. If you guys are planning on getting a kit. I strongly recomend the ZEX Kit for ease of use and very easy install. No soloinds to mess with just a control box that does the work. As for my mods i have nothing major. Pretty much just bolt on's and great sticky tires. Here's the link to my list of mods. http://www.tccoa.com/rides/reprob.shtml

Thanks again for the great complemints.

Sincerely,
Rob "CRASH" Repucci
 

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Is the window switch just to ensure there is enough port velocity so you don't kaboom the intake? So my question is, if you use a dry ZEX kit, and have the '95 intake, is the window switch really a necessity. I've run a few nitrous kits before on different cars, the latest being my Trans Am, which had a plastic intake, and ran a 125 dry shot for a couple years with no problems, so I'm actually just wondering(besides the pistons and rods) where the weak link is in our cars.
 

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yea, the window switch prevents this




If you run a dry system, you don't have to worry about the fuel puddling in the intake, and can spray right off the line, just make sure your fuel system can keep up, a 255 lph fuel pump, and afpr is a must I think with a dry system. Steve Dugan has been running his dry Zex system for a long time, and hasn't burnt it up yet. But his fuel system can keep up. I know of another member who had a stock fuel system, and went to too big of a dry shot, and lost a cylinder.

Me on the other hand, had been running without a window switch, and my eagerness to get going got me a few times, when I hit it way to soon, and have blown up the air filter box, or in the case of that picture, the intake :ztoohot:
 

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A window switch is a rpm activated device that triggers power to any desired 12v system during a specified and variable zone, or "window."

IN this application the window switch would say for instance, arm the nitrous(complete the circuit) at 2500rpm, after the system is armed from the micro switch(pedal)- and then the system will disarm the nitrous at lets say-4800rpm. Acting as a window for which the nitrous is being sprayed, set by the users parameters.

Here are the steps of arm/disarm:

1. POwer to the nitrous kit, usually a lighted switch.
2. Throttle pedal 100% depressed-triggers micro switch.
(car launches)
3. Engine Rpm's reach desired speed for window activation
(nitrous kit activated silenoids open)
4. Engines Rpm's reach desired speed for window deactivation
(nitrous kit deactivated sileniods closed)
5. Engine runs as would normally till tranny shifts, putting the rpm's back into the "window"

-this is for those that thought window switches had to do with port velocity.
 

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I know what a window switch does, and I know the steps of arm/disarm. I've used nitrous on 4 of my vehicles, just not a 4.6, and I haven't fried anything yet, but most of the stories of breaking stuff come from the intakes on 96+ 4.6's..

Thanks Joel for the answers. As soon as I get my shortblock rebuilt, I'll probably be spraying soon after, with the forged bottom end, I plan on spraying a 125 shot. I was planning on a 190lph fuel pump, but the 255 isn't much more. And it looks like I'm going to be going with a dry kit to avoid the "kaboom".

Thanks again.
 

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Rich95XR7 said:

And it looks like I'm going to be going with a dry kit to avoid the "kaboom".

Thanks again.

AWW comon!!! the KABOOM is fun for everyone!! you should have seen the focus I was racing when the intake went, he dang near went into the wall. :D talked to him afterwards and he admitted it scared the piss outta him..literally (dip had his window down :D )
 

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I bet, It sounds like fun for you, but I don't know, if I was you, I'd probably be carrying around a spare airbox in the trunk. Once the shortblock is done, I might just spray the old 140,000 mile motor just to see what happens:D I was spraying my Mustang with a 100 shot with over 120,000 and never blew it, but it had forged pistons.

BTW: did you get your nozzle relocated yet?
 

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yea, I moved the nozzle to the more correct location on the back side of the intake, and drilled the hole so it hopefully won't tear up the tube.

And you're calling the 140k motor old??


jeez im at 150k and spraying it! (no I don't care how long it last, I'm building a new forged one next year.
 

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where can i get a window switch from online?
 

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So the moral of the story is to ALWAYS use a good fuel system with anything over a 50HP setting. Dry systems can go right from idle, while a wet system should wait till 3000RPM or so.With our heavy boats we should either use a dry system, or a wet kit with a 3000RPM converter. of course both should be used with sticky tires. And Joel, who could you be talking about loosing a cylinder with a stock fuel system?
 

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pa_dan said:
And Joel, who could you be talking about loosing a cylinder with a stock fuel system?
I have no clue who I could have been referring to ;) :D
 
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