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Heavily Medicated Crime Fighter
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After doing some research on the topic it seems that our stock fuel pump can handle a 75hp wet shot but anything above that is questionable. Some people have run 125 shot with the stock fuel system without problems while others have had disastrous results. Unless you want to play with fire a new 190 LPH or higher pump is mandatory for anything over 75hp shot and is recommended for any nitrous usage.

Mark
 

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I ran the 80 Hp shot for years with a stock fuel system with no problem, but went boom when I went to the 125Hp? jet. So if 80hp was safe for me I would say 50 would always be safe. Cloged fule filter, or other problem and the 80Hp jet could have killed it ust as quick.Any way you look at it, Dont folow my foot steps. A 125$ fuel pump is alot cheaper than an engine.I knew I was on the edge but wanted a 13 second pass and got Gready.So everyone please be carefull, nitrous is more addictive than crack.Now who wants to make me a bracket for the bottle on my snowblower?
 

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awesome video

haha i like the way each time you time yourself to 60 but you always go to at least 80! haha
soundz great man
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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rossf83+1 said:
OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE LOSING!
I'm going to have that etched into my mirror.
 

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i thought i saw in a zex ad that kits had a tps switch that would only allow no2 at wot. isin't this the same thing as a window switch.
 

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Formerly Fdawg97LX
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NUHBOY4.6 said:
i thought i saw in a zex ad that kits had a tps switch that would only allow no2 at wot. isin't this the same thing as a window switch.
no, a window switch allows teh nitrous to turn on and off at a given rpm. for example if you want it to turn on a 3000 rpms and off at 6000 then it will only turn on at wot between those rpm's. where as without a window switch you can go wot from a standstill and it will turn on right away. its just an added safety feature used with wet kits and also people with manual transmisson use them in case of a missed **** r something. they're really not neccessary for a dry kit.

Frank
 

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Formerly Fdawg97LX
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i made a couple of nitrous runs last nigth similar to robs. i'll post them up as soom as my friend sends them to me. also had a run in with an 04 gt while i was out last night. he didnt fair to well.

Frank
 

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Sold and still no video...

Chris
 

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I have 3.73s in my auto car and 3.55s in the 5-spd. Gears are definately the best bang so far. I wonder what a bit of spray will do on the SC when I get the MPIII done.

Chris
 

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rossf83+1 said:
Objects in mirror are losing.

I had the mirrors on my 92 Mark with a 75 shot and 190Lph etched very similar. They said:"Objects in mirror may rapidly dissapear."
 

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What is with everyone thinking a dry system can be activated from idle, and that a window switch isnt needed?

Anyone who uses that philosophy obviously hasn't tried it yet... nitrous in ANY form will detonate below 2500 RPM simply because they air movement through the intake is not great enough to keep it from pre-igniting in the intake and making your intake a combustion chamber.

I know what theory you are probably attacking from, wet kits are basically an armed time bomb from the second they come out of the nozzle, where as dry kits only spray an oxidizer through the intake, and the base fuel is added at the injector. The problem with this is that ford injection systems spray at a closed valve, and the fuel does reverberate up the intake enough to hit off a nitrous charge if you spray at too low of an RPM.

in a nutshell: Window switches are basically MANDATORY on any type of nitrous system if you want to ensure your intake will live. The biggest benefit is from shutting the nitrous down before you are on the rev limiter if the tires spin. Instant piston shrapnel in that instance, dry or wet.

conditions for safe nitrous use:
1. WOT
2. above 3000 RPM (or at LEAST 3500)
3. BELOW the rev limiter
4. regular copper spark plugs gapped at .035
5. Timing retarded (super safe mode is 2* for every 50hp of nitrous)
6. Dont skimp on the fuel, a bigger pump is cheap insurance
 

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PostSlut
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13,597 Posts
my car ran for about 60 bottles worth on a 75 dry shot....I had stock platinum plugs gapped at .050, I had a stock fuel pump, I would hit under 3000 sometimes(accidentally), and hit the rev limiter numerous times(accidentally), then I installed a chip, which increased my timing.....the car lasted about 3 bottles worth after that.

So, my point is, make sure theres enough fuel, and enough timming pulled with the correct plugs.....when I installed my nitrous, I didn't really listen to anyone....my mistake.
 

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Supernatural said:
What is with everyone thinking a dry system can be activated from idle, and that a window switch isnt needed?

Anyone who uses that philosophy obviously hasn't tried it yet... nitrous in ANY form will detonate below 2500 RPM simply because they air movement through the intake is not great enough to keep it from pre-igniting in the intake and making your intake a combustion chamber.

I know what theory you are probably attacking from, wet kits are basically an armed time bomb from the second they come out of the nozzle, where as dry kits only spray an oxidizer through the intake, and the base fuel is added at the injector. The problem with this is that ford injection systems spray at a closed valve, and the fuel does reverberate up the intake enough to hit off a nitrous charge if you spray at too low of an RPM.

in a nutshell: Window switches are basically MANDATORY on any type of nitrous system if you want to ensure your intake will live. The biggest benefit is from shutting the nitrous down before you are on the rev limiter if the tires spin. Instant piston shrapnel in that instance, dry or wet.

conditions for safe nitrous use:
1. WOT
2. above 3000 RPM (or at LEAST 3500)
3. BELOW the rev limiter
4. regular copper spark plugs gapped at .035
5. Timing retarded (super safe mode is 2* for every 50hp of nitrous)
6. Dont skimp on the fuel, a bigger pump is cheap insurance
hmm, i have my zex dry kit and spray off the line all the time, and i have a n/a tuned chip. but i am running a very low shot (50) and have upgraded the pump and regulator.
 

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yeah, the only thing I can determine is that you guys are running a much smaller shot than I am used to messing with. The smallest shot I usually tune for is 125 or so. That may make up for the difference with the volatility.
 

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i have run a 125 shot off the line at the track and on the road for close to a year,and with 186,000 on the clock and still running,
as for "regular copper spark plugs gapped at .035" thats bs because all i got with those plugs was a spit sputter backfire threw the intake
and the 2 degrees for every 50 hp ....nah my car is tuned to make all the power on the motor and never have problems when i run the n2o,an yes i am trying to blow this motor up so i can drop in a built bottom end
mike
 

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West Virginia Chapter Director /, MA Drag Race Te
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Supernatural said:
yeah, the only thing I can determine is that you guys are running a much smaller shot than I am used to messing with. The smallest shot I usually tune for is 125 or so. That may make up for the difference with the volatility.

I've run a dry shot at 125 HP level on the ZEX Dry kit for 8 years on two different motors and not had a problem with either. I have NO window switch on mine and NEVER have. It is activated at WOT sensing voltage from the TPS.

That blows that theory to hell and back. And just for good measure the torque peak in my signature was done on the dyno. That was at 2850 RPM.
 
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