sounds like you've had a bad brake booster from the start, soft spongy pedal is usually a problem with one of a few things master cylinder, not enough fluid or brake booster from what I've seen, sometimes it can be crappy rubber lines though too, but from what you've done so far it sounds like you've narrowed it down to what was probably the original problem
My brakes hardly work
When i press the brake peddle on my t-bird it's really soft and travels very far, and barley slows the car down. I took it in to a auto shop and they said to replace the master cylinder, drums,shoes,wheel cylinders, rotors and pads, i did all that and it did not fix the problem. I had a lifetime warranty on my master cylinder so i went to murrays to get another one, put it on, bled the brakes and they are still the same. I was thinking it's the brake booster or proportioning valves but not sure. What are they two black things that screw on to my master cylinder before two of the brake lines, are these the proportioning valves.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Chris murder I think is on the right track.I had a simliar problem and it was the brake booster.
thanks.
How hard and how do you change the brake booster.
How hard and how do you change the brake booster.
It can be a pain.When I did mine I had to pull the cowl off and jack up the motor.It's a real tight fit.
Good luck.
Good luck.
isn't the brake booster the thing the master cylinder hooks to. what's the cowl. what is behind the driver fender, it's surrounded by a rubber bag. it look's like there is a line that goes to the brake booster.
I have the same issue but I disconnected the booster and drove the car, and though the pedal was very very stout, it did not seem to slow the car until I the pedal was nearing the floor. Could it be both my master and my booster?
seems liek a common problem. have you tried adjusting the back brakes? thats what i did and i had some improvement. but i think the master cylinder or teh brake booster is shot on mine. probably going to be going to the junkyard soon anyways, theres rust in a BAD spot. around teh rear shock tower.
I have adjusted my rears and the pedal was how it should normally be. After about a day of driving the pedal went back to spongy and hardly working. I will probably replace my drum springs, which i should have done when i did the shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, because when i took it in, the ynoticed that one wheel was spinning to freely, which happens to be the side that my drums can be moved up and down, so something is messed up in there.
That usually means the brakes on that wheel aren't adjusted out quite enough.quickthunder94 said:I have adjusted my rears and the pedal was how it should normally be. After about a day of driving the pedal went back to spongy and hardly working. I will probably replace my drum springs, which i should have done when i did the shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, because when i took it in, the ynoticed that one wheel was spinning to freely, which happens to be the side that my drums can be moved up and down, so something is messed up in there.
Still, new springs are ALLWAYS a good idea since they're fairly cheap, and you have to pull them off anyway to do the brakes.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
TCCoA Forums
A forum community dedicated to Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar and Lincoln Mark owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Grog6
210 Replies
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
54 Replies
CDsDontBurn
50 Replies
