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get a flip chip.......one with the ability to have two or more programs on it.

some have up to four programs which could be regular gas, premium gas, nitrous, and a valet setting.
 

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PostSlut
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Guys becareful, I was running Nitrous for a long time without a chip. After I installed my chip, BOOOOOMMMMM, there goes my motor. No it really didn't blow up, it just melted my 4 of my spark plugs, and 4 of my intake valves.
The reason it was the chips fault was because it remapped the whole fuel curve to run a little leaner and it bumped the timming which produces more HP. Which in a stock car, thats fine. But not when your running Nitrous. You want just the oposite, more fuel and less timming, like 4-6 degrees timing at idle.

Hope this helps, I just don't want anyone to fall in the same hole I did.

Nick
 

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What type of nitrous system are/were you running? I have been running my wet system with my chip for 2 years without an issue...and my chip is advancing base timing around 15 degrees.

other than me blowing up my intake due to spraying way too soon......

I would think that the lean condition would be more prevaling with a dry system, or a system that cannot supply enough fuel to meet the demands of the motor and the nitrous system.
 

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PostSlut
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I was using NOS brand, part # 5150 ( I think ) it was a dry setup at about a 125 shot.

It could have been a number of things, like:
- not enough fuel
- too hot of spark plugs
- too big of a gap
- too much timming
- and other stuff I can't think of right now


But anyway, I was runnin it for at least 9 months without the chip, and like I said before, the next bottle with the chip, it went boom, but oh well live and learn.:D
 

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badbird95 said:
I was using NOS brand, part # 5150 ( I think ) it was a dry setup at about a 125 shot.

It could have been a number of things, like:
- not enough fuel
- too hot of spark plugs
- too big of a gap
- too much timming
- and other stuff I can't think of right now


But anyway, I was runnin it for at least 9 months without the chip, and like I said before, the next bottle with the chip, it went boom, but oh well live and learn.:D
if you are running a dry kit and you pop a chip in that leans it out and adds timing... i'm afraid that's pretty much what could happen. a wet kit adds it's own fuel and requires a different strategy to tune. you actually try to lean it out with the chip to get the AFR you want. but for a dry kit, gotta add the fuel if it's too lean on juice. :(

if you are spraying, please spend a few extra bucks on a decent wideband sensor and at least double-check your chip. make sure it isn't leaning out under wot. a lot of times you really can't tell until it's too late.

but i bet the car moved on spray, though :cool:
 

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Formerly Fdawg97LX
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if you get a chip you can have a second program set up just for nitrous. thats what i did.

Frank
 

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fdawg97lx said:
if you get a chip you can have a second program set up just for nitrous. thats what i did.

Frank
that's probably the smartest thing to do if you go mail order. i've setup hybrid juice programs, but usually when i have the car in front of me and i can actually datalog and wideband.
 

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Just out of curiosity, what's a good a/f ration through the entire nitrous spraying 'run'? I know a good n/a would be like 13:1, and on a dry kit...somewhere from 12-10:1???

Joe
 

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whitecoug said:
Just out of curiosity, what's a good a/f ration through the entire nitrous spraying 'run'? I know a good n/a would be like 13:1, and on a dry kit...somewhere from 12-10:1???

Joe
well, the idea is to find the best burn rate and optimize the combustion process and that balance differs between engines and configuations. it's not just about the AFR but also optimal timing (more isn't necessarily better). i think of timing as "when" as opposed to "how much".

but if i were blind tuning via mail i'd probably go no higher than 12:1 just to have some sort of safety net in case something goes wrong and it leans out. that's why no matter who tunes your car, always invest in a wideband. even a simple crappy in-car gauge is better than nothing. if you see it indicate lean, stop racing and put a real wideband on it and check it out.
 

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Formerly Fdawg97LX
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ncc386 said:


well, the idea is to find the best burn rate and optimize the combustion process and that balance differs between engines and configuations. it's not just about the AFR but also optimal timing (more isn't necessarily better). i think of timing as "when" as opposed to "how much".

but if i were blind tuning via mail i'd probably go no higher than 12:1 just to have some sort of safety net in case something goes wrong and it leans out. that's why no matter who tunes your car, always invest in a wideband. even a simple crappy in-car gauge is better than nothing. if you see it indicate lean, stop racing and put a real wideband on it and check it out.
sounds like good insurance. where can i get a wideband and how do they work and how much. i know nothing about them. school me please :D . if you want pm me so we dont cluter this thread up.

Frank
 
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