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It shows 1 of 2 stored, is there another code?
If not, swap O2 sensors side to side (L/R) and see if the code changes.
Sensor 2 refers to the sensor after the CAT. I'm pretty sure Bank 2 is passenger side.
 

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Well; I'd bet the 25 year old o2 sensors have finally given up. The post-cat sensors are used too. I usually swap the primaries to the secondaries, and put new ones on for primaries. You can clear codes by pulling fuse 15 under the hood, and trying to start the car.put the fuse back in, and start the car. Do the drive sequence, and see if it sets the code again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can clear codes by pulling fuse 15 under the hood, and
I actually just disconnected the battery for a few minutes. The light did not return on the next drive.

I'm thinking that if there actually is an issue, the light will come back pretty soon. If it doesn't come back, then maybe it was some sort of false alarm (?).
 

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With your reader, it looks like there is an "erase" button to delete codes. Always do that versus disconnecting the battery, which can leave you with some quirky drivability until everything relearns.

Al
 
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I just use my xcal2. :)
 
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Unless it self healed or was just a fluke, probably in a dozen drive cycles or so. If you are worried stop by an auto store and have the codes read again. If its going to throw the light again it will probably have a pending code set by now. If its clear maybe you lucked out
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Check Engine Light came back today. I just got back from a road trip, so it's been about 1,000 miles since the Light first appeared (and disappeared after I disconnected the battery).

It's the same code (P0156), and again it showed "(1/2)" after the code. I asked the guy if that meant that there were two codes total, but he appeared a bit clueless. I need to invest in my own code reader.

As before, there are no drivability issues at all (which I'm guessing is because this sensor collects information about catalytic convertor performance only, but doesn't actively influence fuel trim).
 

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That usually means the sensor is shorted. Buy a set for the front, and swap the current fronts to the rear. While you're there, make sure the wires aren't touching the exhaust.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just from looks, does this appear to be the factory original sensor?

(Side note: that rusty shift mechanism doesn't look very confidence inspiring either.)




Buy a set for the front, and swap the current fronts to the rear.
Oh my...I need to keep this simple!

Are fronts and backs the same part? On Rockauto, some brands seem to differentiate between upstream and downstream while others don't.
 
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