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Discussion Starter #1
Friend of mine is hooking me up while I am on the road with a PI intake plus install, he needs the cash so 400 bucks is the going rate, he has the intake already. What performance boost am I looking at with the intake, i know 10hp at the crank is realistic, how about torque? It has a J mod, but is otherwise stock. I am doing this swap because i have the OE plastic intake crossover.
 

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The intake shifts the powerband a little higher - 10-12 RWHP is the standard result. You lose some of that down low though. PI cams easily make up for that though. :)
 

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Well I won't be getting one then, I like as much low end torque as possible on my street car.

Al
 

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Do you have a fantastic plastic intake?
Oh yeah. It's a Dorman no less, installed by the previous owner.

I really like the low end torque right off idle of a stock 96-97 compared to the 95, even with the Dorman.

I guess the only way to improve that even more is with a gear change. I do a lot of highway driving though.

Al
 

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Oh yeah. It's a Dorman no less, installed by the previous owner.

I really like the low end torque right off idle of a stock 96-97 compared to the 95, even with the Dorman.

I guess the only way to improve that even more is with a gear change. I do a lot of highway driving though.

Al
I've got a full PI swap (heads/cams/intake) with an 80mm MAF, Mark VIII torque converter, 93 Mark VIII drive shaft, and 3.73:1 with TL.

Low end torque loss is a non issue, and mileage hasn't suffered dramatically. I'm at around 2400RPM at 70mph, and was getting between 23-24mpg with a bad alignment, and around 19 in town. I haven't done a full tank since I got the wheels aligned, but I'm happy with 24mpg in a V8 with a relatively short OD gear.
 

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Traffic moves higher than 70 MPH around here.

My 97 got 26 MPG on the only two hwy trips I took so far, and my 95 gets 27-28 avg, though 30 plenty of times. This is driving 74-78 MPH, depending on speed limit.

I am looking to keep the car very close to stock, though I am considering a gear change since a trak lok is going in anyway. So smooth on the hwy right now, rather not increase the engine speed 300 RPM.

Al
 

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The PI intake doesn't make a noticeable difference down low; but over 3500 it makes a big difference. :)

Do a set of PI cams and new seals in your stock heads at the same time, if you have a 96-97, and it can perform better than a PI headswap. :)
PI cams won't work with 94-95, iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Question. What gets done with the climate control sensor? Guy is installing it and is 95% done with the prep on the intake and block, just curious about that. He's never done a t-bird before.
 

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Traffic moves higher than 70 MPH around here.

My 97 got 26 MPG on the only two hwy trips I took so far, and my 95 gets 27-28 avg, though 30 plenty of times. This is driving 74-78 MPH, depending on speed limit.

I am looking to keep the car very close to stock, though I am considering a gear change since a trak lok is going in anyway. So smooth on the hwy right now, rather not increase the engine speed 300 RPM.

Al
Yes, I'd much rather do 75 on the freeway, but spinning the engine at 2600 seems a little high for constant speed to me.

But, I do eventually plan on a T56 with a .63 6th gear and a .8 fifth. Should keep me around 2300 at 75... But that's a long way down the road. For the same money,I could get a Gear Vendors, with a .55 double over, and that would put it around 2000 rpm at 75, which would be good too, dramatically easier from a fabrication standpoint too... but they don't return emails, and if I'm going to spend $3000 or so, I'd rather a manual.
 

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Question. What gets done with the climate control sensor? Guy is installing it and is 95% done with the prep on the intake and block, just curious about that. He's never done a t-bird before.
It really isn't all that important, it just stops the blower motor/fan from turning on until the water temp reaches a certain point.

It also depends on which coolant tube you went with, which side of the engine it exits from.

PERSONALLY I went with a drivers side exiting coolant tube, ran a hose to the passenger side, to a brass block, and hooked the regular heater hose to it as well, with the SATC fan lock out switch on the third leg. I first tried cutting that section out of the factory coolant tube but without a bump to help retain the hose I felt it would not stay in place.

The Mustang tube is more to the drivers side, this shows the tube, the hose, and a portion of the brass block:


The regular heater hose to one of the barb fittings:


The block I used, it doesn't show what I did to ground it (before I did that, the fan always ran, which were I live with morning temps "down" to the 50s in the winter, not an issue):
 

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Orrr, with my recent revelation, simply tap the second coolant sensor port on the intake manifold crossover and extend the wiring and connector to it; problem solved.
 

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The sensor needs to be grounded to work, so make sure that whatever you do allows for that provision. I just hacked off the end of the original tube and ran a hose between that and the PI tube so I could keep the tube connected to the head for proper grounding in the stock position for functionality.
 

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Yes, I'd much rather do 75 on the freeway, but spinning the engine at 2600 seems a little high for constant speed to me.
Thanks for the info. This is exactly why I was hesitant to change the gear. Though I had calculated I would be running 2600 at more like 78 MPH (only 2300 at that speed now). I have 215/70-15 tires.

I don't like to be limited, I take 8 hr trips a couple times a year. I had though a 3.55 would be a good compromise, it would only raise the RPM 200 RPM, according to the calculators.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It really isn't all that important, it just stops the blower motor/fan from turning on until the water temp reaches a certain point.

It also depends on which coolant tube you went with, which side of the engine it exits from.

PERSONALLY I went with a drivers side exiting coolant tube, ran a hose to the passenger side, to a brass block, and hooked the regular heater hose to it as well, with the SATC fan lock out switch on the third leg. I first tried cutting that section out of the factory coolant tube but without a bump to help retain the hose I felt it would not stay in place.

The Mustang tube is more to the drivers side, this shows the tube, the hose, and a portion of the brass block:


The regular heater hose to one of the barb fittings:


The block I used, it doesn't show what I did to ground it (before I did that, the fan always ran, which were I live with morning temps "down" to the 50s in the winter, not an issue):
I just need a firm answer. Will the heat still work properly without the sensor at all? DOes he need to do anything to get it to work without it, like ground the wire?
 

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Yes, heat still will work fine without it.

If you ditch the sensor, you don't need to do anything with the wires (leave them disconnected, cut and tape them off, or whatever).

All the sensor does is keep the blower fan from turning on when the fan speed selector is in "Auto" mode if the engine isn't warm (well, excepting the defrost positions).
 

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Thanks for the info. This is exactly why I was hesitant to change the gear. Though I had calculated I would be running 2600 at more like 78 MPH (only 2300 at that speed now). I have 215/70-15 tires.

I don't like to be limited, I take 8 hr trips a couple times a year. I had though a 3.55 would be a good compromise, it would only raise the RPM 200 RPM, according to the calculators.

Al
I am running a 26" tire, not the stock 26.6 or 26.9" tire, which puts my RPM's up too. I'm just a hair under 2600 at 75, but It's only a 150rpm or so more than running at 70. I need to retest the MPG now that I'm aligned, it should be better, and if I can get 23 or so at 75, I'll drive there until I upgrade to a manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I am running a 26" tire, not the stock 26.6 or 26.9" tire, which puts my RPM's up too. I'm just a hair under 2600 at 75, but It's only a 150rpm or so more than running at 70. I need to retest the MPG now that I'm aligned, it should be better, and if I can get 23 or so at 75, I'll drive there until I upgrade to a manual.
I also would reccomend switching to the 225/60/16 tire size on the sport wheels like i did, a TON of great tires are made in that size.


 
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