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Discussion Starter #1
How it going,

I learned a lot from this web site. And thanks to all who helped me recently. I took my 94 bird to my mechanic to get my neutral safety switch installed today (he was pissed I bought it somewhere else for $22.99).

I told him that the error code we got about "bank 2 running lean" was most likely my MAFS and I read an article on how to clean it (at TCCoA), and it seems to be running a lot better. He said that it's not the MAF because I wouldn't just get a code that "bank 2" was running lean, I would get a code about both sides running lean. He said it doesn't just affect i side. He said it with a f***ing smirk (with his 1970's mustache) and then called the article bullsh*t.

I told him I read on the site something about why only bank 2 shows up as a code, but I didn't remember why. Man he pissed me off. I would really like to tell hom, I mean make a special trip over there just to tell him in the right way why it might read only "bank 2 running lean".

Can anyone explain it to me so I can look like I know what I'm talking about?

Thanks. I would really appreciate it.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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4,794 Posts
o2 sensors???
 

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Full Metal
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i was gonna say that. but what do i know.
 

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Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
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Intrakitt said:
What do you mean?
He is taking a shot at your mechanic. My advice, find a new mechanic.
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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2,261 Posts
Intrakitt, Can you PM me with that mechanic's shop? I want to tell my daughter to stay away from there with her 88 T-Bird. It's bad enough she goes to Pep Boys.
 

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680 Posts
Mechanics aren't supposed to understand anything, they are just supposed to swap parts to fix things. Didn't you know?

They get paid a set amount of labor to do a set job, ie replace an MAF.

Cleaning, etc, isn't in the labor job code.

Also they get paid X amount of time for a job, and do it in 1/4 the time, as well as mark down about 7 other things they didn't really check or half *** checked, they get the set amount of time for all that stuff they didn't spend the time doing, some mechanics are at a garage for 8 hours, and get paid for 16 hours of work.

Lots of mechanics making over 100k /yr doing this.

So get with the program!!!


As far as the rich or lean, I don't remember if it's this way with the Ford EEC, but sometimes (EEC diagnostic strategies) if both are tripped it just shows a fault for one or the other by default to show an active problem.

Also, the engine, intake, with IAC and EGR, the flow from bank to bank has proven time and time again not to be balanced, especially at part throttle.

You will always see a mismatch in fuel trims, it's not a perfect world. So when your tetering on the edge of rich or lean, one bank will always be mismatched, and may have more of a propensity to go rich or lean a millisecond or so before the other.

Its not built to perfect symmetry, it's man made for god sake!
 

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Get a new mechanic. Cleaning the MAF works great. Also works on the IAC.

Most drivability problems with these cars can be resolved by cleaning MAF, cleaning IAC, replace plugs and wires, and changeing the tranny fluid. At least that is my 135,000 miles of experience with my car. I drove my Bird off the lot with 2 miles on it.

Also, an SCT chip will work wonders for the fun factor.
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Probably just wants to sell you a new one and charge you twice what he got it for.
 

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Hmm, and I've had the mechanics at the dealership clean the MAF before. Guess he knows more than the factory trained ones as well. Just take this as a fortunate sign to get a new mechanic before he raped you on something really expensive. These cars are pretty easy to maintain like a previous poster said until something major in the engine decides to go tits up on you. I've now killed 2 4.6L engines in my Thunderbird and no, I didn't do anything stupid like run it without oil.
 

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Premium Member
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I like to use the sponge type alcohol prep pads.
The fiber ones work but you have to make sure you don't leave any fibers on them.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #15
E & M Auto in Culver City California. The mechanics name is Sal. I know he's a freakin' idiot. I did clean my MAF and my Bird runs better than when I bought it (only 4,000 miles ago - it's at 113,000).

Thanks for the help. I will change my mechanic. It will be me unless it's major. I've done most of my own stuff up til now, and used to tear down my '75 Camaro all the time. Of course this computer stuff is a little confusing, but I'm getting the hang of it. Thanks again - special thanks to Teeps for the explanation that will have him scratching his fat head.
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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Intrakitt,

If you find a good mechanic, let me know. I'm 2,000 miles away trying to find a good one for my girl at USC. She's got the bulbs out in the dash of her 88 Bird.
 

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MN12 Fanatic
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1,459 Posts
HEY! I'm a "mechanic" and I have cleaned MAFS hundreds of times!

:tongue:

No but, I consider myself an auto tech that actually cares about the customer. I was trained by one of the best and I have learned SO MUCH from him!

http://www.rockyriverauto.com Thats where I learned/worked for two years and that guy knows what the hell he is talking about. When I left him he tried and tried to keep me anyway he could! But I followed the lady...lol.

Another way is to get some electrical cleaner and spray the MAF. It's safe and you don't risk screwing anything up with the q-tip. But have done it both ways with no prob!

I'd look for a new mechanic!
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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also when using the aerosol contact cleaner make sure do it at least 10 minutes after the engine has been shut down.

hot glass and chill aerosol spray doesn't mix well.
 
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