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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #1








all this for a mere 20 bucks. couple more bucks for m12x1.75 bolts, nuts washer etc.

wanted to installed it but have yet to found a drill that i can get into the spots for drilling. got an angle driver but need another drill to use it. so have to wait first.
 

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That's 'cause of Sir will little april fools joke.. You can't access anything with tccoa.com in the name... If you change the URL to http://members.smoothbird.com/chuacw/rstb/
You'll see them

Casper:
So your going to bolt it down just in front the rear shocks??
Isn't that going produce a lot of stress on the boltholes and making them
oval?? Couldn't that start to leak?? Just a thought that popped into my head..

//Per

//Per
 

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Is that a boxed rail? What are its dimensions, and whats it made of? May look into making my own. I found an inexpensive metal working shop right here in town!
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #5
in the first pic you see those 2 little brackets at the top on the newspaper? those will go underneath the chasis and once intall i will get it welded down(the tiny bracket).

it will be the area just behind the shock bolt just after the shock bracket.

it's 3"x1.5" box rail metal. made at metal working shop here. just need the right drill to drill the hole. the hole is 1/2" hole and i bought grade 8 12mm bolts, nylon locking nuts and washer to go with it.

ps: those white stuff on the bar is newspaper sticking on it. the wind blow the newspaper to it while the paint is still wet. but it doesn't bother me because the primary goal is for stiffness so i don't care for the looks.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #8
nope. you don't want to bolt it directly to the rear shock because it will bind/bend the rear shock and cause damage to the rear shock. the rear shock mounting point has bushing to allowed it to have side to side movement when the suspension arm is moving up and down.
 

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there's not enough force back there to bend a shock bolt, the real deal is that the upper shock mounts are rubber, so you're not effectively connecting anything structural.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #10
Rich95XR7 said:
there's not enough force back there to bend a shock bolt, the real deal is that the upper shock mounts are rubber, so you're not effectively connecting anything structural.
that's what i'm trying to mean.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #11
the bar is in today and heck the rear end stiff up a lot. however i highly recomend poeple that when putting new bar in at the underside of the nuts tightened side use another metal pieces as a backing plate to prevent tear though. washer will be fine too but the bigger the better to spread the load. i was surprise how soft the metal are at that area.

pics wil follow in a day or 2.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #12
updates on pics installed.





 

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so how does it feel now that you have it in? any major difference.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #14
all i can say is night and day differences. try it on speed bump, high speed cornering, rough road etc, drive just like new car. the rear end feel damm solid.
 

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Can you make me one?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter #16
i can make you one but the shipping will be killer though because of the weigh. that's one of the reason i didn't make a bunch for sale. if you still want it and willing to pay the shipping for about 10-15 lbs shipped from michigan 48642 then why not. just let me know. maybe $45 a piece plus shiping? all the barckets and bolts and nuts included.
 

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Well if it is that heavy, then it should be pretty strong. I am getting ready to lower my car, so I am thinking this would be a good idea to add too. I will try to get an estimate for shipping and let you know. Thanks.
 
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