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Discussion Starter #401
I bought a IRS type diff for $150, so that seems high.



Gears are available from summit; although finding someone selling their stash is cheap, lol.
This is an MK-VIII housing, lol.

I was browsing through various trak-lok units a while back, and they seem to go for $350 - $600 depending on vendor, brand, model, etc.

Then, I know I need to get the actual gears. Then after that, the clutches. And because I'm OCD, should I go about replacing the bearings out of the half shafts and driveshaft openings?

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Of course you should. :)

Summit has all that stuff; I went thru this awhile back, it's all in a box until I need it. :)

From what Ive read, you might not have to recrush the collapsible washer if you use FRPP gears, it might fit perfectly.

I'd do it all while you're there; don't forget the friction modifier that goes in with the diff fluid.

BTW; Diff Fluid is the single most smelly oil there is; take the old one apart OUTSIDE, away from the house, and let it all drain out.

If you buy all new parts, that won't be an issue. :)

Be sure to track what shim was where; it matters going back together.


This is actually the best diff, IMHO; they're pricey.

https://forums.tccoa.com/20-parts-sale/189453-eaton-truetrac-differential-model-912a56-ford-8-8-28-spline.html

You also want the spring out of a truck, to go between the clutches. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #403
A part number is all I need, for now. Now that you've provided me with one, I'm going to be adding it to my Excel sheet. :)

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Discussion Starter #404
So is a differential it's own category, a sub-category of transmission, or a sub-category of suspension?
 

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Discussion Starter #406

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I'd say a sub-category of drivetrain! :tongue:

Joe
I'm with Joe; I'd add it and "Transmission" under "Drivetrain", so you can add "Driveshaft", "CV axles", and "tranny mount", lol.

:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #408
Would it "fit" though? I think I'm just going to keep it as it's own category.
 

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Eh, if you've got all those categories broken out in the way you do, just leave it where it is. Building up a pumpkin isn't quite as long a parts list as the trans swap but it's not a one-and-done deal either.
 

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Discussion Starter #411
Eh, if you've got all those categories broken out in the way you do, just leave it where it is. Building up a pumpkin isn't quite as long a parts list as the trans swap but it's not a one-and-done deal either.
Yea. I'm just going to leave it as its own category. If I *ever* do DSS half-shafts, it'd be going into the "Differential" category I've made.

As for suspension project status, it's been on hold since....IDK when. Basically, my bathroom remodel project has been consuming my spare time and (more importantly) cash. Once it's done, I should be able to start buying the remaining misc. parts I need to get the suspension and transmission done. I think I'm going to shoot for the SCP aluminum subframe bushings too. And after seeing the other thread on waiting for Jay's UHMV parts, I think I'll just cough up the extra cash and buy those from SCP as well as I don't really want to wait around an extra year just to save $100 on parts. The aluminum cylinder suggestion that @Grog6 made a while back, while cheap, is going to put my OCD on "crazy status". I hate doing things "Mickey Mouse" and those cylinders are pretty "Mickey Mouse" status. Sure they'd work, but to me it's not right.

As it stands, I'm more likely to finish acquiring parts for my transmission swap before I finish acquiring parts for the suspension.

I'm also highly contemplating keeping the car parked until I get EVERYTHING done; meaning, the rear differential upgrade. That way there's absolutely no reason for me to go back and "play" with everything drivetrain related more than once. All said and done, that means about an extra $1,000 (through Summit) after properly pricing everything out for the differential. It would be a little cheaper if through SCP, but then it's not the Eaton Detroit Locker brand unit. That locker is hella spendy!
 

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Basically, my bathroom remodel project has been consuming my spare time and (more importantly) cash.
I really know how that feels!! I've been wanting to get the headers installed on the T-bird since I got them last year, but this basement project I'm plugging away on just sucks everything out of me! Pretty sure I've spent more on the basement so far than I have on the T-bird...
 

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Discussion Starter #413
I really know how that feels!! I've been wanting to get the headers installed on the T-bird since I got them last year, but this basement project I'm plugging away on just sucks everything out of me! Pretty sure I've spent more on the basement so far than I have on the T-bird...
Right?!

To slow things down further, I worked a 12hr shift of OT today and I have plans for pretty much all day tomorrow. Then more OT the following weekend as well as the weekend after that. Sure, it helps on the cash front, but the timeframe for the bathroom is being pushed back that much further now, and subsequently, the T-Bird. We can co-miserate, lol.

Then, the wife wants me to jump straight into my son's room for complete demo of the room and rebuild it (insulation, closet remodel, windows, etc.). Definitely a home owner, LMAO. I'm going to tell her no and to wait a little bit. I want a break, lol.

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Right?!

To slow things down further, I worked a 12hr shift of OT today and I have plans for pretty much all day tomorrow. Then more OT the following weekend as well as the weekend after that. Sure, it helps on the cash front, but the timeframe for the bathroom is being pushed back that much further now, and subsequently, the T-Bird. We can co-miserate, lol.

Then, the wife wants me to jump straight into my son's room for complete demo of the room and rebuild it (insulation, closet remodel, windows, etc.). Definitely a home owner, LMAO. I'm going to tell her no and to wait a little bit. I want a break, lol.

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Look on the brighter side. Your house looks fairly modern. I'm doing some remodel work now and I just learned over the weekend that sheetrock only became common in the mid 20th century. My house was made in the 1920s. This means that after spending a morning removing tile, I learned that I also needed to remove the concrete plaster + chicken wire mesh that they used as a backing on top of the wood slats for the interior wall. That took another day of work.

One kitchen's (3 walls) worth of tile + concrete = a literal ton (as per the dump's scale) of stuff i chipped off, carried to the truck, and took to the dump. Thank god for power hammers (for the concrete at least).
-g

PS. I haven't finished setting up my tbird (add all the acccessories, fluid, and set timing) in 9 months.
 

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I've found that the wood in old houses is WAY better wood than you find in new ones.

IDK what my house is built from, but it's red, it's too hard to drive a nail into, and it's real 2"x4" 2x4's. :)

I have to drill pilot holes and use sheetrock screws instead of nails.

This house is strange, WiFi doesn't work thru the walls; I found a brochure from a company that sold "radioactive shields" for use in houses with the old deeds and stuff, and I think that means there's lead sheeting in the walls, which was a fake thing from the 50's.
It takes a lot more than 1/8" of lead to block radiation, lol.

I owned the house next door which had the same floorplan (All this neighborhood is the same), and it didn't have the WiFi issue, so I think it's really in there. :)
 

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I've found that the wood in old houses is WAY better wood than you find in new ones.

IDK what my house is built from, but it's red, it's too hard to drive a nail into, and it's real 2"x4" 2x4's. :)

I have to drill pilot holes and use sheetrock screws instead of nails.

This house is strange, WiFi doesn't work thru the walls; I found a brochure from a company that sold "radioactive shields" for use in houses with the old deeds and stuff, and I think that means there's lead sheeting in the walls, which was a fake thing from the 50's.
It takes a lot more than 1/8" of lead to block radiation, lol.

I owned the house next door which had the same floorplan (All this neighborhood is the same), and it didn't have the WiFi issue, so I think it's really in there. :)
The funny thing is that the thing that you really like is the thing that would have literally wiped out the forests of North America if we kept going. Once the building industry learned that pine tree farming and that non-hardwood framing would work just as well as hardwood we all ended up better. Fortunately, replenishing red oak to use took too long and they had to move to something else anyway. Your framing is probably red oak and that's why it's hard as a rock.

It's probably the asbestos in the walls blocking the wifi signal. :xpcool:
 

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Someone else said these were red oak; They were apparently ordered as a kit.

This entire small subdivision was an Apple Orchard until the early 50's; these houses were built across the whole orchard at the same time.

Apparently all the Apple trees died from some blight.

I have the original papers from it being built in 56ish; it looks like the deed is from 58.

Someone told me these were bought from Sears as a kit. :grin2:

There is a lot of unburnable materials, but the one next door is the same stuff; I swear I think there's lead sheeting in there in this one.

I'm going to add a few outlets soon, I'll know for sure then, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #418
Look on the brighter side. Your house looks fairly modern. I'm doing some remodel work now and I just learned over the weekend that sheetrock only became common in the mid 20th century. My house was made in the 1920s. This means that after spending a morning removing tile, I learned that I also needed to remove the concrete plaster + chicken wire mesh that they used as a backing on top of the wood slats for the interior wall. That took another day of work.

One kitchen's (3 walls) worth of tile + concrete = a literal ton (as per the dump's scale) of stuff i chipped off, carried to the truck, and took to the dump. Thank god for power hammers (for the concrete at least).
-g

PS. I haven't finished setting up my tbird (add all the acccessories, fluid, and set timing) in 9 months.
Relative to your house, it is fairly modern as my house was built in 1960, lol. One literal ton of stuff to remove is hella heavy! I'm not sure how much stuff my trash weighed as I went the cheap way and just put it all in my assigned trash bin and got rid of it over 4 weeks. Yeah, I'm cheap, lol. Not having a truck, nor wanting to rent / borrow one, doesn't help on that front either.

April marked 3yrs for me since my T-Bird last ran (legally on the roads). I've driven it around the block once or twice whenever I have to take it out of the garage (like now for the current phase of my bathroom remodel), but that's about all it gets for attention these days. It will be like so until I get it all built as I've stated recently.

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