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Discussion Starter #441
I went with Aluminum "pucks". Basically just 1.5" chunk of 3" wife aluminum bar. I plan to drill a hole in the center for the bolt, then find a washer the thickness of the arm that barely fits in the bottom hole to center the puck, them a wider washer below it to home everything together. I'll have $30 in the perches. I'd really like to just turn a small protrusion that fits that pocket on one side on the puck, but I don't know if anyone with a lathe.
I have my MK-VIII LCAs available. I can get measurements of the pocket. I can pull down the spring isolators as well and get measurements of the inside hole as well as height for overall perch measurements.

But yeah, we need someone with a lathe, lol.
 
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You don't need a lathe.

A 3" aluminum puck will fit perfectly inside the spring.
From here:


I bought 2x 3" long.

Bought a 5/8 drill bit, bolts, and tap.

I drilled 5 holes around the outside to remove weight, tapped the one in the center.
 

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Discussion Starter #443
I had forgotten about that thread! I think I'll be picking these up and trying to figure out how to make it work.

So I know you said you drilled some holes and tapped the middle one, added some additional hardware to that middle hole so it could secure to the hole on the LCA to make it work. If a lathe is available to just grind down a little bit for the nipple, would that also work?
 

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I had forgotten about that thread! I think I'll be picking these up and trying to figure out how to make it work.

So I know you said you drilled some holes and tapped the middle one, added some additional hardware to that middle hole so it could secure to the hole on the LCA to make it work. If a lathe is available to just grind down a little bit for the nipple, would that also work?
Don't worry about that. Just find a thick washer that fits inside the hole of the LCA then find another one that's bigger than the hole. Stack them on the bolt that goes through the aluminum so that it centers the whole thing using that washer that fits the inside of that hole and it works perfectly. I did that.
 

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Discussion Starter #445
Do you have any pictures? I'm having a hard time visualizing this.
 

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Do you have any pictures? I'm having a hard time visualizing this.
Unfortunately I don't. Just think of it as a stack of washers with the bigger one on the bottom that keeps the bolt from going through the hole and the stepped smaller one to keep the bolt centered in the hole. If you can't find thick washers for the centering washer just use two or three of them to get the spacing right.
 

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After searching three computers, I finally found the damn pix, lol.

Here's the 3" dia by 3" tall puck, sitting inside a used isolator.

Get new poly isolators.

I ordered 5/8" bolts and tap.

EDIT:
The bolt sizes are not crucial; anything over ~1/2" should work without breaking.
If you have a tap near this size, or can borrow one, it will save some cash.
The bolts do have a pretty good side load on them, until they are in place; the springs kinda push sideways on them as they get compressed into place.
I beveled the top of the puck with a grinder, to give it a smooth surface for the spring to move on.
I thought it might 'reform' the edge where it touches the spring, but I haven't seen that.


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Here's the bolt, tap, and holes I drilled in the puck to lighten it up.

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Here's a pic from the bottom; the 5/8 bolt leaves about 1/8" clearance in the hole.
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I just used the washer stackup here; my bolt hit the end of the threads, so I needed one more lockwasher.
A bottoming tap would be best here. :) The tapered one is too long at the taper section for this app.

Topside view:

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I glued it in with rtv, and sealed the holes I Drilled, just to keep dirt dobbers (Wasps) away. :)

Here's a pic of my modified UCA's; this is in the Articles. GM was nice enough to do these for me. :)
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This is what it looks like together; AFAIK, only the exhaust guys have seen these, lol.


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1 1 Each 8974K82 Multipurpose 6061 Aluminum 3" Diameter, 1/2 Feet Long 30.11 30.11
2 2 Packs of 1 each 92620A806 Hex Head Screw Grade 8, 5/8"-11 Thread , 3" Long, $2.01 $4.02
3 1 Each 26035A185 TAP, Bottoming, 5/8"-11 Thread Size, 1-13/16" Thread Length $9.86 $9.86
Merchandise Total $43.99

You save 5 bux if you hacksaw the 6" tall puck in half, instead of ordering 2x 3" pucks.
But, they sell them 3" tall is you are hacksaw challenged. :)

So, $20 each, unless you have tap and bolts. :)

Washers I'd get from Lowes or Home Depot; any grade is going to be harder than the aluminum.

There's a tiny bit of play in the hole where the bolt goes, but it gets pushed to the outside Very Hard by the spring.
It doesn't move around.

I used an aluminum bolt in the first try, for weight savings, lol; it flowed like toothpaste under the force of the spring. :) Steel, grade 8, works great, and has for a few years now.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #448
Thanks @Grog6 ! I'm going to give this a shot! I'll likely order these pucks along with the subframe bushings.
 

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Shorter is cheaper for everything. :)

They offer the pucks in thinner sections; or you could cut the piece into 4 pieces, and sell the other two and get your money back, lol.
 
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Discussion Starter #451
Is there a specific unit to order that's the appropriate width but shorter, ideally no more than 1/4" taller than the isolator?
 

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Shorter is cheaper for everything. :)

They offer the pucks in thinner sections; or you could cut the piece into 4 pieces, and sell the other two and get your money back, lol.
If I had a way to cut them in half, I have a spare set that I could make three sets out of. I just don't have a bandsaw to do it.
 

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Yeah; cutting 3" aluminum by hand is not fun for an old coot like me.

:)


Here's a link to a 1"; you want it taller than half the spring wire dia, iirc, so the spring can't hop over it.


That's from here:

When you're drilling lightening holes, they can be any size, just be careful not to make them in a line. :)
I used the drill bit I bought for the tapped hole.
 

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I ordered 2 of the 1" tall from here a while back. I hadn't planned on tapping the hole - was going to drop it smooth so the hardware was tight and use a bolt and locknut with appropriate washers. What's the reason to tap it?
 

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I ordered 2 of the 1" talk from here a while back. I hadn't planned on tapping the hole - was going to drop it smooth so the hardware was tight and use a bolt and locknut with appropriate washers. What's the reason to tap it?
To thread a keep bolt into it.

RwP
 
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See the bright, shiny bolt next to the tap?

It's aluminum, and weighs 5 grams. Was toothpaste before the spring, lol.

The steel one is around 30g. :)
 

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I didn't think about the 3" thickness when I asked that question. Plenty of thread there to hold.

The steel one is around 30g.
So I should be careful not to add too many washers, lol. Good news is shorter puck equals shorter bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #459
Here are pictures of the aluminum subframe bushings! These are far cheaper than Bill / SCP, a hair more than what Jay charges, but received within days of confirming order.... unlike Jay where you have to wait 6mo if you're lucky. They are somewhat heavy, I'd say about 10 - 15 pounds for everything. The bushings are made in a CNC machine which basically ensures that everything is within spec....as long as correct specs were input into the CNC machine, lol. I have no doubt that these are good parts.

The guy is from here in SoCal and was able to do local pickup which was awesome. We met up during our lunch breaks and had a good chat about all sorts of topics. The guy is definitely cool people. I found him on the FB TCCOA page thanks to @Zep5.0, but I'm unsure if he's on this forum or SCCOA forums. He said he's got an MK-VIII, so he may not even be on either of these forums? Is there a forum specific for the MK-VIII? If so, that's likely where he's at.

The last major required component needed for my suspension rebuild are the spring perches. Once I have those, I will be able to, technically, get started on the suspension. But I will wait. I will wait until I have everything else, such as the rear differential refresh parts and the last bits of my TR-3650 swap before actually tearing into the car. Well that, and also the fact that I have boxes of tile and other stuff from my bathroom remodel taking up garage space! 😂

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And pictures of all my accumulated, and inventoried, parts just waiting in their boxes...

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Nice to see they turned out well. He was very open to helping me before I finally got Jay to man up. Are they painted, or anodized? Assuming something to keep the alum vs steel corrosion down. They look good, though!
 
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