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Discussion Starter · #561 ·
Shifting was off, I remember. But that could be due to the lack of ATF.
 
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The special tools are ~100 bux, so it's not too costly. You are basically removing dead rubber seals and putting them back in the same spot. I bought a better locking c-clip tool set, but a cheap one will do.
If you're doing the front pump only, I don't think anything special is needed. Trans tech or patc will sell you parts and any special tools. :) I wanted one built my way, so I did, and I liked it, lol.
My transmission guy is a transgo guy, and absolutely hates the way my transmission hits. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #564 ·
If I can just RTV the sh!t out of it, and make sure the ATF stays inside the transmission and the transmission still functions as it should, then that's fine by me. If it needs a full rebuild regardless, then I'll look for a spare someone is selling as long as it works as it should. I don't want to spend too much money on a spare automatic transmission that will only see less than 250 miles every other year.

A while ago, when I was interested in rebuilding the transmission, I remember finding a 4 part YouTube video where some guy completely tore down the 4R70W. Besides the special tools needed, it looked fairly easy to do.....so long as you kept track of everything and where it went. The key takeaway from that video I got was that there's this one particular hole in the transmission case, where there is a large pin looking thing going through it. I remember the guy saying that if that hole is marred too much that even a larger sized pin thing won't fix it, that then the entire transmission case is done.
 

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Yeah, that's the od solenoid pin. If it leaks, the od apply is weak, and lets the band slip. It's also leaking direct clutch pressure, which makes the apply soft, and if it slips it's toast too. It is not hard to put a rebuild kit in one, as dude told you, you just have to put everything back together correctly. A feeler gauge set can be used to get the seals in place. the 0.05 piece was what I used the most. :) I finally bought the set of seal installers on ebay.

 
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Discussion Starter · #566 ·
If I can get a 4R70W for under $500 that still works, I'm cool with that. I'd rather do that than spend $700 on tools and a rebuild kit.

I want to keep the AT repair / rebuild costs at an absolute minimum. Ideally, minimums in both money and time spent on a functional AT.
 

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look for a 2002 locally; I bought one back in 2008, and ran it for 60k miles before it killed the direct clutch. The seals will be a lot worse by now. But it ain't worth rebuilding an older one. I could be talked into loaning tools to long time members of good repute. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #568 ·
2002 what? Panther, SN95, Exploder / Aviator, F-150 / Expedition / Navigator?

If I can just get away with fixing the front pump seal of mine, that's all that matters. It just needs to hold the ATF and not leak it like a sieve.
 

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The transmission from any car would work, however the CVPIs and Town Cars have the longer extension housing/tail shaft so you'd need to swap over your factory hardware. I recommend that anyway because the Mustangs and Panthers have 8 tooth output shafts (vs the MN12/FN10 7) which limits how high of a final drive ratio you can go to without needing a speedcal. Avoid the truck 4Rs - their valve bodies are set up differently and are not desirable on cars.

GM 4R70Ws are probably ideal due to the fact that they're usually bought by a demographic who would no beat on them and there's no requirement to swap the tail shaft over (just use a different speedo gear) if you have to do a drop-in swap with no rebuild. Mustangs, police cars and taxis are bad ideas. Bonus points if the car you pull it out of was wrecked - that means it was still running when it met its end. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #570 ·
So 2002+ Grand Marquis and Lincoln Continentals - preferably wrecked ones - are the ideal choices to pull a transmission. Got it.
 

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Contis are fwd,so wont work. great source for heads.
Gran marquis are the way to go; grampa mobile, most likely in the jy with rear end caved in.
Put an appropriate gear in the vss before you put it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #572 ·

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You could always get extremely lucky like I did and buy the transmission out of a 2002 Mustang Mach 1 that they wrapped around a tree lol. Bought it with 28k on it for less than $500. It was so long ago I don't even really remember what I paid. Then I had it gone through and had all the newer transmission jmod stuff done to it by Supergordo. The tailshaft had to be swapped as well for the speed sensor.
 

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That tailshaft is seriously the Last item that comes out of the case; If you're taking it apart that far, replace the shaft seals.
A rebuild kit, supertuff plate, a few sonnax parts, and it will last for another 25 years.

Plastic tools


Metal tools.
 

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That tailshaft is seriously the Last item that comes out of the case; If you're taking it apart that far, replace the shaft seals.
A rebuild kit, supertuff plate, a few sonnax parts, and it will last for another 25 years.
Last one out and first one in. I did all new seals and increased forward clutch pack with no wave spring and the most aggressive jmod settings I love it. If I ever build it again I may get the tough plate, but honestly I've been heavily considering tr6060 and t56 swaps on my two birds.... yes I know I can't leave things well enough alone.
 

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I should send you my shift settings, lol. Actually, I need to do a rebuild article, and show all the little things that make a huge difference, and add the tuning stuff. any later transmission will neutral on the 3-4 if you don't increase the epc pressure. not sure why.
I've got Lazarus set up for full manual, pretty much; the tc only unlocks at 1st and reverse,and it's programmed to shift up and down by speed so that it drives like a manual. It's not for everyone, but I love it. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #578 ·
I don't care about JMOD stuff. I just need a cheap 4R70W to skirt CA emissions laws. I'm just trying to decide which is the easiest and cheapest option for me in regards to resolving my automatic transmission issue here:

1. Repair my existing 4R70W front pump seal. How involved is this, and are special tools required?

2. Replace my 4R70W with one from [insert vehicle here] as a direct swap. A 2002+ Grand Marquis is looking like the best candidate. If I need to swap tailshaft, then so be it. But you guys are making it seem that the entire transmission needs to come apart for that to happen? If so, that option is out because it's way more involved than I want to deal with.
 

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If yours worked, replace the seal. If I'm not mistaken you have to do something to re-pin the connector for the ecu on the later trans.

And you can always go to a later trans....later.
 

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1) Never done it, but I believe you need slide hammers to get the front pump out after you've unbolted it.

2) You can't go too new as the output shaft was changed to a turbine sensor and not a gear driven sensor. 03 was the start of this for some applications. As long as you don't install one of the long tailshaft models (CVPI, Town Car) just get the correct speedo gear, repin the harness, swap over your TCC solenoid and MLPS and otherwise it's plug-and-play.
 
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