I never needed a slide hammer to get the front pump off, just grab the stator splines and pull
Now that I've mentioned this, I will have to say that the suspension will most definitely take me a long time to get it to where I want it to be at. The rear hubs being replaced is basically my starting point on all this. I'm going to be doing more reading and research on the matter, and of course asking here as questions from me come along.Lovely Chinese wheel bearings....
What needs a repin where? The transmission harness or the ECU?a2002 requires a repin. The front seal can be done without special tools, iirc. a long 8mm bolt, an open end wrench and a hammer makes a slide hammer.
Is this what I need for the front pump seal?I never needed a slide hammer to get the front pump off, just grab the stator splines and pull
There is a jig for redrilling the factory hubs to 114.3. not sure on the price.So as most of you know, I've got some new wheels not long ago that I intended to use for my Honda. I've since been debating on whether or not I should use them on my T-Bird instead, and I'm beginning to lean on that I should.
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These wheels are Avid1 SP02, 18x8.5, 35mm offset. I would plan on wrapping 255/45/18 tires on these, though, I'm unsure of what brand / model tire yet. As I understand, these will fit perfectly inside the wheel well of our cars. If I want to continue with this idea, then I need to find hubs for the rear knuckles. However, there seems to be nowhere that has rear hubs available? Am I mistaken about this? If I'm wrong, where can I get a set of rear hubs? And yes, I checked FTBR and RA.
I currently have 4 NIB 5x108 hubs on my parts collection as my original plan was to go with the original spec'ed hubs and just buy new tires for the OEM wheels, but that plan seems to be changing now, lol.
I'm patient, but I don't think I'm THAT patient, lol.A drill press is best. also, new bits, a bottle of drilling fluid, and a lot of patience. Steel takes forever, compared to aluminum, and will waste a bit if it gets too hot.
Sorry for the late reply here. The 4r70w pump has two of the holes that are threaded. You can take two of the bellhousing bolts and thread them into the holes and you can use those to help pull the pump if you cannot simply pull it out. The rebuild manual does show two small slide hammers that have threaded fittings you thread into those holes. But you really don't havet to spend the money on the special tool set.1) Never done it, but I believe you need slide hammers to get the front pump out after you've unbolted it.
2) You can't go too new as the output shaft was changed to a turbine sensor and not a gear driven sensor. 03 was the start of this for some applications. As long as you don't install one of the long tailshaft models (CVPI, Town Car) just get the correct speedo gear, repin the harness, swap over your TCC solenoid and MLPS and otherwise it's plug-and-play.
I have a friend who is a retired engineer. He has a buddy at a machine shop here where I live. He was able to have the machine shop build me a redrill jig our of 1/2" steel for $40 last year. My son used it to redrill 2 sets of rotors for the cobra conversion, and my buddy just redrilled all his hubs for a hub swap. Worked nicely.There is a jig for redrilling the factory hubs to 114.3. not sure on the price.
I got FTBR for mine, but I had bought studs to redrill the factory hubs. They were a bit corroded and so I bought new.
You read my incomplete thought 😅. Thank you for understanding what I didn't finish writing!No. The FTBR hubs are very nice pieces, and fit and work perfectly. And just get the ones with the factory studs. The longer ones are needed for certain race cars, but there is no reason to run them on the street.