1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
I never needed a slide hammer to get the front pump off, just grab the stator splines and pull
Is this what I need for the front pump seal?I never needed a slide hammer to get the front pump off, just grab the stator splines and pull
There is a jig for redrilling the factory hubs to 114.3. not sure on the price.So as most of you know, I've got some new wheels not long ago that I intended to use for my Honda. I've since been debating on whether or not I should use them on my T-Bird instead, and I'm beginning to lean on that I should.
View attachment 51596
View attachment 51597
These wheels are Avid1 SP02, 18x8.5, 35mm offset. I would plan on wrapping 255/45/18 tires on these, though, I'm unsure of what brand / model tire yet. As I understand, these will fit perfectly inside the wheel well of our cars. If I want to continue with this idea, then I need to find hubs for the rear knuckles. However, there seems to be nowhere that has rear hubs available? Am I mistaken about this? If I'm wrong, where can I get a set of rear hubs? And yes, I checked FTBR and RA.
I currently have 4 NIB 5x108 hubs on my parts collection as my original plan was to go with the original spec'ed hubs and just buy new tires for the OEM wheels, but that plan seems to be changing now, lol.
Sorry for the late reply here. The 4r70w pump has two of the holes that are threaded. You can take two of the bellhousing bolts and thread them into the holes and you can use those to help pull the pump if you cannot simply pull it out. The rebuild manual does show two small slide hammers that have threaded fittings you thread into those holes. But you really don't havet to spend the money on the special tool set.1) Never done it, but I believe you need slide hammers to get the front pump out after you've unbolted it.
2) You can't go too new as the output shaft was changed to a turbine sensor and not a gear driven sensor. 03 was the start of this for some applications. As long as you don't install one of the long tailshaft models (CVPI, Town Car) just get the correct speedo gear, repin the harness, swap over your TCC solenoid and MLPS and otherwise it's plug-and-play.
I have a friend who is a retired engineer. He has a buddy at a machine shop here where I live. He was able to have the machine shop build me a redrill jig our of 1/2" steel for $40 last year. My son used it to redrill 2 sets of rotors for the cobra conversion, and my buddy just redrilled all his hubs for a hub swap. Worked nicely.There is a jig for redrilling the factory hubs to 114.3. not sure on the price.
I got FTBR for mine, but I had bought studs to redrill the factory hubs. They were a bit corroded and so I bought new.