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a2002 requires a repin. The front seal can be done without special tools, iirc. a long 8mm bolt, an open end wrench and a hammer makes a slide hammer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #583 ·
a2002 requires a repin. The front seal can be done without special tools, iirc. a long 8mm bolt, an open end wrench and a hammer makes a slide hammer.
What needs a repin where? The transmission harness or the ECU?
 

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Trans harness.
 
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Discussion Starter · #585 ·

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That's what it looks like; it should be.
 
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Discussion Starter · #587 ·
So as most of you know, I've got some new wheels not long ago that I intended to use for my Honda. I've since been debating on whether or not I should use them on my T-Bird instead, and I'm beginning to lean on that I should.





These wheels are Avid1 SP02, 18x8.5, 35mm offset. I would plan on wrapping 255/45/18 tires on these, though, I'm unsure of what brand / model tire yet. As I understand, these will fit perfectly inside the wheel well of our cars. If I want to continue with this idea, then I need to find hubs for the rear knuckles. However, there seems to be nowhere that has rear hubs available? Am I mistaken about this? If I'm wrong, where can I get a set of rear hubs? And yes, I checked FTBR and RA.

I currently have 4 NIB 5x108 hubs on my parts collection as my original plan was to go with the original spec'ed hubs and just buy new tires for the OEM wheels, but that plan seems to be changing now, lol.
 
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1991 Mercury Cougar LS 5.0 in restoration
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So as most of you know, I've got some new wheels not long ago that I intended to use for my Honda. I've since been debating on whether or not I should use them on my T-Bird instead, and I'm beginning to lean on that I should.

View attachment 51596

View attachment 51597

These wheels are Avid1 SP02, 18x8.5, 35mm offset. I would plan on wrapping 255/45/18 tires on these, though, I'm unsure of what brand / model tire yet. As I understand, these will fit perfectly inside the wheel well of our cars. If I want to continue with this idea, then I need to find hubs for the rear knuckles. However, there seems to be nowhere that has rear hubs available? Am I mistaken about this? If I'm wrong, where can I get a set of rear hubs? And yes, I checked FTBR and RA.

I currently have 4 NIB 5x108 hubs on my parts collection as my original plan was to go with the original spec'ed hubs and just buy new tires for the OEM wheels, but that plan seems to be changing now, lol.
There is a jig for redrilling the factory hubs to 114.3. not sure on the price.

I got FTBR for mine, but I had bought studs to redrill the factory hubs. They were a bit corroded and so I bought new.
 

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A drill press is best. also, new bits, a bottle of drilling fluid, and a lot of patience. Steel takes forever, compared to aluminum, and will waste a bit if it gets too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #591 ·
A drill press is best. also, new bits, a bottle of drilling fluid, and a lot of patience. Steel takes forever, compared to aluminum, and will waste a bit if it gets too hot.
I'm patient, but I don't think I'm THAT patient, lol.
 

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The first time I drilled Stainless steel, I used a great drill press to turn a brand new carbide drill bit into a melted gob of ****. It was a glowing hemisphere of steel, lol. The boss knew what I'd do, and slid up behind me and said", if you keep going, it will eventually go thru, if you use enough force. we fire people for that." :)
 
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1995 Thunderbird LX Missing 4.6 MIssing Trans Red
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1) Never done it, but I believe you need slide hammers to get the front pump out after you've unbolted it.

2) You can't go too new as the output shaft was changed to a turbine sensor and not a gear driven sensor. 03 was the start of this for some applications. As long as you don't install one of the long tailshaft models (CVPI, Town Car) just get the correct speedo gear, repin the harness, swap over your TCC solenoid and MLPS and otherwise it's plug-and-play.
Sorry for the late reply here. The 4r70w pump has two of the holes that are threaded. You can take two of the bellhousing bolts and thread them into the holes and you can use those to help pull the pump if you cannot simply pull it out. The rebuild manual does show two small slide hammers that have threaded fittings you thread into those holes. But you really don't havet to spend the money on the special tool set.
 

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There is a jig for redrilling the factory hubs to 114.3. not sure on the price.

I got FTBR for mine, but I had bought studs to redrill the factory hubs. They were a bit corroded and so I bought new.
I have a friend who is a retired engineer. He has a buddy at a machine shop here where I live. He was able to have the machine shop build me a redrill jig our of 1/2" steel for $40 last year. My son used it to redrill 2 sets of rotors for the cobra conversion, and my buddy just redrilled all his hubs for a hub swap. Worked nicely.
 
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To get the pump, use bolts, like you said, but you can hook a wrench under the head, and hit the underside, and it will pop out.
 
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