Awesome! Thanks Mike! 👍
My Second Mod: Suspension Rebuild
After I got my T-Bird running last week, I noticed that there was a rattling coming from the front. I was told to lift the front, grab the wheels at 12 and 6 o'clock and shake it to see if it moved / wiggled. The fronts were fine so I moved to the rear. Upon doing the same for the rear driver, it moved and likewise for the passenger rear. This obviously means that I have failed rear hubs which will need replacement. This being a safety issue, I've decided to go ahead and start rebuilding the suspension over the transmission. The transmission just leaks but shifts fine otherwise and I have to add some ATF to it every so often which I can live with for the time being.
All this being said, I've begun doing some searching here in the suspension section of the forum and have found a ton of info. Posting on the FB TCCoA group, I was told by Woodman (Durwood) to go ahead and do all the knuckle bushings since I'll already be there anyways. He's even provided me the link to Energy Suspension for the correct bushings. They're inexpensive, so I'll definitely be doing this. The video I found (below) on YouTube pretty much spells out how to do the job, minus how to put the new hubs on, this job seems to be something I can do in an afternoon. This post by jco1385 (pictures in the quote) makes it seem that I can do press the hubs in myself provided I have the right tools.
As far as parts go, I've heard from several people and read in a few threads already that Timken is the way to go in terms of hubs. There has been one person mention a brand called SKF for hubs. Any thoughts on Timken vs SKF?
All this being said, I've begun doing some searching here in the suspension section of the forum and have found a ton of info. Posting on the FB TCCoA group, I was told by Woodman (Durwood) to go ahead and do all the knuckle bushings since I'll already be there anyways. He's even provided me the link to Energy Suspension for the correct bushings. They're inexpensive, so I'll definitely be doing this. The video I found (below) on YouTube pretty much spells out how to do the job, minus how to put the new hubs on, this job seems to be something I can do in an afternoon. This post by jco1385 (pictures in the quote) makes it seem that I can do press the hubs in myself provided I have the right tools.
Now that I've mentioned this, I will have to say that the suspension will most definitely take me a long time to get it to where I want it to be at. The rear hubs being replaced is basically my starting point on all this. I'm going to be doing more reading and research on the matter, and of course asking here as questions from me come along.Lovely Chinese wheel bearings....
As far as parts go, I've heard from several people and read in a few threads already that Timken is the way to go in terms of hubs. There has been one person mention a brand called SKF for hubs. Any thoughts on Timken vs SKF?
601 - 620 of 634 Posts
I would suest upradin to braided stainless lines, if I knew wo sill made tem. LOL.
Tis is te initial output from tis laptop, lol.
I would suggest upgrading to braided stainless lines, if I knew who sill made them.
Tis is te initial output from tis laptop, lol.
I would suggest upgrading to braided stainless lines, if I knew who sill made them.
That's definitely part of the brakes project 🙂.I would suggest upgrading to braided stainless lines, if I knew who sill made them.
I did replace the OEM rubber hoses when I had my T-Bird running like 7yrs ago. But I'm sure that replacing them now, again, even if rubber, wouldn't hurt anything either 😀.
You guys are too paranoid, my rear brake hoses are 29 years old! Fronts are rubber ones I only replaced since I had to mill them to fit my Cobra calipers, and they look the same as the rears today.
SS hoses never seem to last a few years before the steel mesh starts fraying, I don’t get the appeal of those at all besides bling and an consequently firmer feel.
SS hoses never seem to last a few years before the steel mesh starts fraying, I don’t get the appeal of those at all besides bling and an consequently firmer feel.
I want the firmer feel out of SS lines.
I really like the ss lines on Lazarus and the tbird, along with the pbr's. I broke one of the stockers, the rear drivers' line. I could clearly see the flex while bleeding them; I'm guessing metal fatigue. It broke about 300k miles, I guess it outlived its service life.
Not sure who's ever run into "frayed" SS hoses? Mine still look perfect many years later.
This is @Wile E. Coyote Jr. setup, right?
yepThis is @Wile E. Coyote Jr. setup, right?
Can confirm those hoses feel a lot better than the factory 33y/o hoses.
And you say bracing is ineffective, lol. :0.
Matt, dont you know the guy that sold them?
info on who he got them from would be awesome to know...
Matt, dont you know the guy that sold them?
info on who he got them from would be awesome to know...
I’m certain if someone crafted a shock tower brace from zipties they’d be proclaiming it made a HUGE difference on body stiffness. But at least that’s an $8 bag of plastic rather than $800 of conduit 😆And you say bracing is ineffective, lol. :0.
Matt, dont you know the guy that sold them?
info on who he got them from would be awesome to know...
Who made what? I knew a local member who made a couple braces at one point but not anyone who made SS lines personally.
Here in the near future, I will be buying 5x114 hubs all around.
Between a tax refund check surprise (I was expecting to have to pay) and some serious OT I've been putting in the last few weeks, I'm going to have some spare cash available to put down into my T-Bird. It's going to be nice when those hubs get in 😃!
I'll have my NIB 5x108 hubs for sale shortly after I receive the 5x114 hubs.
Between a tax refund check surprise (I was expecting to have to pay) and some serious OT I've been putting in the last few weeks, I'm going to have some spare cash available to put down into my T-Bird. It's going to be nice when those hubs get in 😃!
I'll have my NIB 5x108 hubs for sale shortly after I receive the 5x114 hubs.
I've searched for a thread where spinning wheels sc stopped making them, and there was info, but I'll be damned if I can find it.
OK, searched, and found a thread on sccoa
OK, searched, and found a thread on sccoa
Victor Malvar Spinning wheels SC
Hey everyone I just heard some very sad news. I recieved word yesterday that Victor of Spinning wheels SC one of our long time members, friend and a vendor to the SC platform has passed away. I know he hasnt been around much lately and im assuming his health has been poor. I know he meant...
www.sccoa.com
I spoke to Diane Malvar about 2 years ago. She was trying to continue selling what inventory they had and she was still producing the SS brake lines. I have two sets that are for the earlier cars that I purchased from her. Call her directly.I've searched for a thread where spinning wheels sc stopped making them, and there was info, but I'll be damned if I can find it.
OK, searched, and found a thread on sccoa
Victor Malvar Spinning wheels SC
Hey everyone I just heard some very sad news. I recieved word yesterday that Victor of Spinning wheels SC one of our long time members, friend and a vendor to the SC platform has passed away. I know he hasnt been around much lately and im assuming his health has been poor. I know he meant...www.sccoa.com
Thanks, gordo! I'll call her tomorrow.
She's awesome. I bought my blower pulley and jackshaft pulley from her and she was great to deal with the whole time. She had some paypal issues though and I ended up paying with a money order. From what she told me she still has all the contacts and was considering restarting the business with her brother or brother in-law.Thanks, gordo! I'll call her tomorrow.
Looking at the rear brake relocation kit from Super Coupes Unlimited, I see one kit has rings and the other kit does not have rings.
What is the purpose of the rings?
What is the purpose of the rings?
601 - 620 of 634 Posts
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