[CDsDontBurn]

So I did a thing just now.

I got this first instead of the Cobra Bilstein insert mod from MaddMartigan because of these bushings are now near unobtainium.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YEe9VreCyFCgqXeJ8

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Should have updated earlier. My order came in on Tuesday!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aVJBsvEGjcuoZqEc9

For now, I've put them in my growing pile of boxes full of parts. My next big purchase will be the front Cobra Bilsteins so I can send off to @MaddMartigan.

 

[Grog6]

Should have updated earlier. My order came in on Tuesday!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aVJBsvEGjcuoZqEc9

For now, I've put them in my growing pile of boxes full of parts. My next big purchase will be the front Cobra Bilsteins so I can send off to @MaddMartigan.

I just Reread that thread; I thought they were Mitsubishi 3000 GT Bilsteins?

Deese:

https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=Bilstein&model=B6+Performance+Shock&group=B6+HD+Shock&partNum=34-050224&autoMake=Mitsubishi&autoModel=3000GT&autoYear=1998&autoModClar=

I could be wrong.

The Cobra ones are for the rear, IIRC. (IRS-type Cobra Convertible was the stiffest? It's in the sticky.)


EDIT: Damn, guys; Here's what we need:

https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=KW&model=Variant+3+Coil-Over&group=Variant+3+Coil-Over&partNum=KW35265008&autoMake=Mitsubishi&autoModel=3000GT&autoYear=1998&autoModClar=

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Yea, those are the Bilsteins, PN# 34-050224. I guess they not for the Cobras but in fact for Mitsubishi! For the longest time I thought that it was for the Cobras, LOL. I just had part numbers on those Bilsteins and didn't know they actually came from a Mitsubishi. IDK / IDC. As long as it's what has been known to work and are better than some soft OEM replacement is all I care about . I know once this is done, I won't have to worry about it for a long time, hopefully another 20yrs, LOL.

 

[Grog6]

Yea, those are the Bilsteins, PN# 34-050224. I guess they not for the Cobras but in fact for Mitsubishi! For the longest time I thought that it was for the Cobras, LOL. I just had part numbers on those Bilsteins and didn't know they actually came from a Mitsubishi. IDK / IDC. As long as it's what has been known to work and are better than some soft OEM replacement is all I care about . I know once this is done, I won't have to worry about it for a long time, hopefully another 20yrs, LOL.

I end up adjusting the rear Konis every year, spring and fall. It's probably because the rear end is so light on my car.

There are Rear Mustang Konis still available, and I may go that way for the adjustability.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Will I be needing this for my front end?

https://www.amazon.com/KYB-SM5465-Insulator/dp/B001J3D6TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536708427&sr=8-1&keywords=SM5465

 

[S4gunn]

Will I be needing this for my front end?

https://www.amazon.com/KYB-SM5465-Insulator/dp/B001J3D6TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536708427&sr=8-1&keywords=SM5465

If you care about NVH, sure, why not. Its cheap enough. It will eliminate any noises from the spring moving against the bottom perch BUT with the weight of the car and the nut on top, the spring will always be under some form of tension.
You can always reuse the old ones OR even just make your own separator with some rubber inner tube material and a knife.

It's by no means necessary; my car doesn't have them but then again, I don't care about NVH at all.
-g

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I've already got the Vogtlands in a box (have had them for some time already), but I don't remember if they come with a set or not. I would prefer no noise at all. Hearing it all rattle even though it would all be nice and tight would just drive me bonkers.

Would I need a set for top and bottom (4 total) or are these for just the bottom of the spring (2 total)?

 

[Rodeo Joe]

Would I need a set for top and bottom (4 total) or are these for just the bottom of the spring (2 total)?

Those are just for the bottom. The top has the strut mount.

Joe

 

[Grog6]

At $2, I'd get them.

That funky step tears if you make your own, and looks crappy.

They'll last 20 more years.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I've updated my list. Getting closer!

The big ticket items are those front Bilstein inserts followed by the rear Bilstein shocks for the absolute musts. The rear ADDCO bar can be swung out (pun intended) and sub in just the sway bar bushings. But I want to do it right the first time on this project!

 

[Grog6]

I haven't done the front ones yet, but the back ones are easy if you wet the bar.

I was thinking WD, but the old school neighbor said water, and it works great.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

If you wet the bar? Like seriously, get it wet with water?

Do you get rust where you're at @Grog6? If so, would that be a factor in replacing the sway bar bushings in that manner?

 

[CDsDontBurn]

One step closer!

Looking through my list though, I do have a concern with my front end links. I've read in other threads that the end links have to be the correct size in order to allow proper articulation of the sway bar. I'd imagine this applies to both front and rear. The rears are not a concern in terms of size as they are the correct size for the 1.6" drop my Vogtlands will be offering. My concern is that whatever stock sized front end links will not work for my suspension application. If the ACDelco 45G0216 units I have pre-selected don't work on a lowered setup, what will?

 

[Grog6]

I have tokicos on Lazarus, and the drop witht he purple springs are about 1.5"

I don't have any issues from that, the car handles as well as Lazarus with the konis and sports.

Ideally you want the "resting" position to be horizontal; that is not achievable easily in the front.

Shorter rear connectors seem to be available, but I haven't seen any in the front.

I used the ACDelco units, which used to be Raybestos, because they have zerk fittings on both ends.

The biggest ***** with the drop is that I have to pull up on the car, to get the freaking jack under it.

 

[XR7-4.6]

The front endlinks don’t matter when lowered, they are ball joint designs with plenty of room for articulation. The rears need to be level because they use bushings on both ends, and if the bar isn’t parallel with the ground the bushings will bind under suspension travel since they’d already loaded up at rest. The stock rear endlink design actually solves this by having a pivot at the bar, it doesn’t matter if the bar is level or not with those.

 

[Grog6]

The front endlinks don’t matter when lowered, they are ball joint designs with plenty of room for articulation. The rears need to be level because they use bushings on both ends, and if the bar isn’t parallel with the ground the bushings will bind under suspension travel since they’d already loaded up at rest. The stock rear endlink design actually solves this by having a pivot at the bar, it doesn’t matter if the bar is level or not with those.

That's what I was trying to think of; I remember arguing this with Tobey, lol.

I found that taking a piece of the urethane bushings you can buy at Advanced fit in the hole in the stock endlinks, when the rubber disappears.

It's actually better than stock.

The rears bind when you jack it up if you're not careful with the aftermarket connectors, the stock ones pivot a bunch.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Yeah I did that with my stock ones, I haphazardly bought an ES endlink kit from autozone without doing any research or measuring and ended up “making” the poly bushings fit the stock link hardware. They worked fantastically and even looked nice. I gave them away to a local member when I went to the ADDCO bar, which they unfortunately don’t work on.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

You guys are contradicting each other! It doesn't help me!!! LOL

 

[Grog6]

I think we were on the same page; Front links==fine, rear links refurb with poly or shorter if you use a addco bar.

If your rear links are perfect, use them. At 20 years old, I had empty holes at the top, and nothing at the bottom but metal.

THere's supposed to be rubber both places.

The stock rear/bar combo pivots, the addco bar is different.

Sorry about being confusing.

If the swaybar is at a big angle, it doesn't work as well, it's supposed to be level to the ground.