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Discussion Starter #1


95 thunderbird

the black parts are rubber and maybe connect to something. the white part has letters "ENG" on it. its from passenger side
 

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EVAP control solenoid, goes under the fender, below the battery to the EVAP canister .. routed to the hard metal line that comes up the shock tower on the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
amazing you knew that, i found one end of what i think is the "hard metal line" ad its attached to the fender at one point it looks like.

would this part being broke effect performance in anyway as described in my other thread?
>http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=147873

here, or if you had any ideas id really appreciate the input

ty
again

was doing some reading and some people report similar problems when this part goes bad and disabling it seems to help, is there a way to test this?
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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If it was just dangling like that, definitely. The other end of it is connected directly to the intake manifold, which means you have a vacuum leak. Mike Shumard nailed it in his post in that thread

If it was hit on Pass side,maybe the canister and Vac lines were damaged?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yeah, plug up the vacuum line to get rid of the vacuum leak and see if it runs better.
i was hit on the driver side though.. And by canister is he referring to #6 in the diagram?

which specific vac lines do i plug? the two at the top of the item shown in the photo?
the only line i can find is by the front fender on the passenger side.



this is a metal line i found near passenger side front bumper i was mentioning. Which is #2 according to diagram ? with #3 being the bumper

 

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i was hit on the driver side though.. And by canister is he referring to #6 in the diagram?

which specific vac lines do i plug? the two at the top of the item shown in the photo?
the only line i can find is by the front fender on the passenger side.

[/IMG]

this is a metal line i found near passenger side front bumper i was mentioning. Which is #2 according to diagram ? with #3 being the bumper
Yes, Canister is #6 ... your broken lines are caused by dry rot from age, not from an impact although an imptact could have shook them loose if they were barely staying together.

The plastic line is attached to the metal line #9 in one photo, #10 in another. Plug it off at #11 or #1 in View Z
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yes, Canister is #6 ... your broken lines are caused by dry rot from age, not from an impact.

The plastic line is attached to the metal line #9 in one photo, #10 in another. Plug it off at #11 or #1 in View Z
just so i know orientation what i have in my hand is infact #2? and #11/#1 are on top of the engine?

what should it plug it off with? Do i need to do anything with the T shaped item with the rubber dry rot ?




this is the male connector [circled in red] to the hose that is broken that leads to #2 in the diagram [ think the diagram is of a V8 btw]

i put a tree branch to fit the hole after taking off the hose, while the car idles better in park, i still have the same stumbling with going from a stop to acceleration problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9


evap canister one hose missing? or is it just used to out put air?

t shaped hose seems to be the evap canister purge valve [#4 in diagram]
 

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just so i know orientation what i have in my hand is infact #2? and #11/#1 are on top of the engine?

what should it plug it off with? Do i need to do anything with the T shaped item with the rubber dry rot ?


this is the male connector [circled in red] to the hose that is broken that leads to #2 in the diagram [ think the diagram is of a V8 btw]

i put a tree branch to fit the hole after taking off the hose, while the car idles better in park, i still have the same stumbling with going from a stop to acceleration problem.
Yeah .. yours will be slightly different from the diagram since its a V6 .. if the hose from the metal line goes to that T you are pointing at, yes .. plug it up there ( not with a stick, get a rubber cap of some type that fits snugly over it .. ) .. or repair the line in question, get a new piece of rubber hose, make sure the rubber is good from that T, all the way back down to under the fender to the canister. You'll want to install the purge valve in-line between the plastic hose and the canister with new hose. Make sure where the metal line on the inner fender to the plastic hose to the canister has a good piece of rubber hose between them, replace the hose while you are at it.

The extra port on the T on top of the canister is present on some cars, not all. It doesnt go to anything so dont worry about it. The canister vent is the circle part on top.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
TY again, ill try some other snug fit, but just with the stick the hesitation with acceleration is still there, leaving me to wonder if this is the root of the problem? If not do you have any ideas?

as of now im not motivated to put much time or money into fixing it unless i can solve that issue, even then i dont think itll last through another winter. right now its just a day time daily driver.
 

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TY again, ill try some other snug fit, but just with the stick the hesitation with acceleration is still there, leaving me to wonder if this is the root of the problem? If not do you have any ideas?

as of now im not motivated to put much time or money into fixing it unless i can solve that issue, even then i dont think itll last through another winter. right now its just a day time daily driver.
Back to the basics .. check for any vacuum leaks with a smoke test - even a cigarette or a cigar will work if you dont want to spend much time or money, just keep blowing smoke into the vacuum lines going to the engine and see if smoke comes out anywhere else. If no vacuum leaks are present, do a compression test or leakdown test on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Back to the basics .. check for any vacuum leaks with a smoke test - even a cigarette or a cigar will work if you dont want to spend much time or money, just keep blowing smoke into the vacuum lines going to the engine and see if smoke comes out anywhere else. If no vacuum leaks are present, do a compression test or leakdown test on the engine.

would i just put the smoke in say where i had the branch[ the first photo with red circle] ? and just let the engine run, im not a smoker ironically
 

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would i just put the smoke in say where i had the branch[ the first photo with red circle] ? and just let the engine run, im not a smoker ironically
Yes, and leave the engine Off .. the nice thing about cigars is that you dont really inhale them anyways and you get tons of smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Ty for the video ill be trying that, I also posted in his ask a question forum guy seems very smart.



one other mystery wire/cable that seems cut/torn goes to back/under the engine far as i can tell
 

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That cable looks like the flat, braided cable which is used as an engine ground. It connects the frame to the passenger side engine mount on the block, if that is what it is.
 
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