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Discussion Starter #1
I've tried searching and have found that I will need to swap some parts onto the 02 engine. This is what I've found so far.

1. 95 Front Cover
2. 96-97 Fuel Rails
3. 96-97 Throttle Cable
4. 94-95 Cruise Cable
5. 96-97 Fuel Lines

Now, my question is with the fuel lines. I have searched and tried to find the answer but have been unsuccessful. What lines will I have to replace? I'm hoping that it's not the lines all the way back to the tank...How come I can't just get the 96/97 fuel rails and hook them up to my stock fuel lines? I also found that I need to get various gaskets...is it really necessary to replace all of the gaskets on such a low mile engine? Would I be able to get new injectors for a 97 bird and use them on the explorer engine? Also, i thought I read something about messing with the alternator bracket...what, if anything, do I need to do there? Please, any other information that I need would be GREATLY appreciated, I am going to be doing this swap virtually by myself in my brother's garage.
 

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Boom.
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The '94-95 fuel lines meet the intake manifold right about where the TB is on the new engine. They do not properly line up with the new fuel rail. You can bend them back if you like, or buy new lines. The lines will go from the fuel rail to the fuel filter, under the passenger side door.

Some gaskets should be replaced when removed. It's cheap insurance that can prevent a headache later on down the road.

I used a '96-97 alternator bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you so much for your help. From your experience, how hard is this swap, and how long did it take you? I am 19 and will be doing this swap with my brother and my dad in my brother's shop/garage. Neither my dad nor my brother have ever swapped an engine so I will be doing most of it myself. Thank you again.
 

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Boom.
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4 weeks working basically only on Saturdays and not all day...at the most we worked 8 hours one day, most days were 4-5 hrs. This was at our dealership with a lift and full compliment of air tools, impact guns, engine hoists, etc...

It is very straight forward with the most complicated part, IMO, being wiring. Wiring is probably the most discussed topic of this swap so search around and you'll find whatever you need. A lot is just tedious stuff like pulling the power steering pump from hell.

Everyone from TCCoA who has attempted this swap has gotten up and running, so we have a 100% success rate here. You'll be fine ;)
 

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Eleventeenth Gear Poster
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Took me and a friend 2 full days and 2 half days in his driveway. Would have taken less time but we ran into a little issue that ate up about 1 full day.
 

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you need new motor mounts,

get the 5.0 solid rubber ones(www.mn12performance.com), the 4.6 solid rubber motor mounts make the engine sit a little bit higher than it is right now. you wont have to grind your motor mounts either like the 99-00 windsor engines


pull the motor and tranny as a unit to save you some time and hard work that is not required,

youll need a new torque convertor(mark8 would be a rightous choice)

you will also need a 96+ tbird,mustang, whatever ,youll need the engine harness or just get the ends(i.e. I have the wiring ends you need if you cant find anything more decent), youll need a reflash or dyno for your new engine

do a search under pi swap or 02 explorer swap youll find the information you need. any more questions just ask one of these guys they will help you.


Tom Bogle
 

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281Sleeper said:
you need new motor mounts,

get the 5.0 solid rubber ones(www.mn12performance.com), the 4.6 solid rubber motor mounts make the engine sit a little bit higher than it is right now. you wont have to grind your motor mounts either like the 99-00 windsor engines
You don’t NEED new motor mounts unless your stock mounts are on there way out. It is a good idea to change them now since the motors out though. The 5.0 solid mounts are closer to the stock height than the 4.6 ones from MN12Performance.

281Sleeper said:
pull the motor and tranny as a unit to save you some time and hard work that is not required,

you’ll need a new torque convertor(mark8 would be a rightous choice)
If I had to do the swap all over again, I still wouldn’t pull the motor and the trans. Lining the TC studs up to the flexplate wasn’t hard at all, it was a lot easier than pulling the exhaust, and dealing with all the other trans related stuff you’d have to mess with. Just my opinion though. Also, you don’t NEED as new TC, but now is a good time to upgrade, a Mark VIII or Marauder TC are good cost effective choices.

281Sleeper said:
you will also need a 96+ tbird,mustang, whatever ,youll need the engine harness or just get the ends(i.e. I have the wiring ends you need if you cant find anything more decent), youll need a reflash or dyno for your new engine
You don’t need a chip or a dyno tune when you put the new motor in. I ran mine with the stock EEC for about 3 months without a problem. If you want the most out of the motor you’ll want a chip or preferably a dyno tune.
 

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why be cheap about your car That's all im saying, all the stuff i listed well minus the harness(i guess 02' engines dont need 96+ wiring ends). my bad


the 5.0 motor mounts, theory i heard from a friend so dont trip potato chip,

he says his brother has a garage, he knows what way is better with pulling the engine and tranny(only stating my opinion)

TC?

dude he needs a new TC, dont steer the guy wrong, you think his stock TC is ok? this engine is alot different than the old romeo.(my opinion) and yeah you can baby that little guy all you want.be honest

besides we all have our own techniques, mine happens to be rebuilding the whole motor so i know what im getting, (all new parts) ""99 Mustang Pi engine""

Im looking for reliability,

It's all about you get what you pay for.. thanks


Tom
 

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Boom.
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281Sleeper said:
why be cheap about your car That's all im saying, all the stuff i listed well minus the harness(i guess 02' engines dont need 96+ wiring ends). my bad
Just to clarify you do need to keep the Explorer harness around as you will need a few connectors, but that should come with the engine when you buy it so there is nothing more to get.

And yes, you are right, it is not a good idea to be cheap, there are some things you might as well upgrade while you have everything ripped apart. I think everyone is just trying to clarify the difference between what is a good idea and what is necessary to get it running. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you guys for all of your help. Yes, I'm only 19, but I am in a ford mehanics program and working at a ford dealership, so I do have some technical know-how, so don't worry about babying me. Also, I already have a mark viii torque convertor and flywheel. So let me get this straight, I am going to have to change some connectors? I'm hearing and reading different things, at first I found was that all I would have to do electrically was lengthen the wires to the IAC. What other connectors do I need? I thought that the 95 wiring harness would work just fine aside from the IAC. Thank you again for all of your help! :D

P.S. - I am going to be getting Kooks headers, 02 GT MAF, chip, solid motor mounts, porting and polishing the heads, and possibly underdrive puleys while the engine is out. Which reminds me of another question, what non-piggyback ud pulleys would work on that engine, or which would be the best to get?
 

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QUOTE]Originally posted by Cougar281
With regards to the Explorer injectors... If I'm not mistaken, they are rated @ 19#, but at a higher fuel pressure, so if they where used in our cars, they wouldn't flow the proper amount of fuel.

I am putting a 2002 Mustang GT intake on mine with an aluminum crossover. I have drilled and tapped the drivers side of the crossover for the EEC sender. The gauge sender goes on the pass. side. The reason I'm putting the GT manifold on is for three reasons. one, the Explorer one was all plastic, and I didn't want that, two, the explorer one was damaged in transit, and three, the GT manifold has an open water outlet (or inlet) for the heater core in the same place as our cars, so I won't have to do much re-routing of hoses (just a little for the one going from the core to the tube from behind the water pump. I have to use the Explorer tube since the MN12 ones won't work with the new PI intake.

One sugestion on the greenleaf engine: after making sure there is no crud sitting around the spark plugs, pull them and look into the cylinders and make sure they are clean (the best you can looking through that tiny hole with a flashlight or droplight). I did this and found some crud in a few that was not carbon. it had the consistency of cat litter. I have no clue how it got there, but I pulled the heads and cleaned them out. Now all the cylinders are nice and clean.

I have a '95 that this engine is going in. The parts I have accumulated are:

'96-97 fuel rails
'96-97 throttle cable
'96-97 throttle bracket
Alt bracket for the intake with alumium crossover
EEC Temp sender
Gauge temp sender
Cobra Radiator (my original leaks)
Cobra fan and wiring pigtail
some misc gaskets (IAC, EGR, TB, T/Stat, Oil pan)
Exahust gaskets
22c Spark plugs
cam sensor
Capacitors (go with coil packs to reduce interference)
'00 GT intake tube
OEM Plug wires
IAC tube
Crankcase tube
T/Stat
'96-97 Fuel lines
255lph fuel pump
solid motor mounts

That's most of my parts. Keep in mind you don't HAVE to replace all that. I wanted to put new sensors and such on the new engine, since everything on my original engine is original and has 107k on them, they could die at any moment (or go forever). That's just my preference. I would rather spend the extra money and have new parts on the engine, rather than put the old parts on, possibly transfering a bad sensor or two, and having the new engine run for the birds like the old one.

Obviously, if you're starting with a 96 or 97, you don't need to get the fuel rails, fuel lines, throttle cable, throttle bracket, IAC tube.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Here are your wiring answers and the full thread you can find them in

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31333

OK here are your answers...note this is based on using the explorer EGR flow sensor and Explorer EEC Head temp sensor rather than the tbird water temp sensor. If you choose to use the tbird sensors then the only explorer wiring conector you will need is the IAC and the other ones can just be lengthened to fit. I am listing all the wires that will need to be either lengthened or spliced.

Tbird Explorer

IAC
White/Blue White/Blue
Red/ Purple/White

TPS Stays the same just needs lengthened

EGR Flow sensor Same wire colors whether Tbird or explorer is used however explorer requires conector from explorer harness

EGR Vacuum regulator Stays same needs lengthening

EEC Engine temp
Green/Red Green/Yellow
Gray/Red Tan/Red

You will need to strip the wiring sheath off the harness starting on the drivers side rear of the motor forward to get access to the wires then you can just rewrap them.

That's all everything else can be rerouted....not too bad
 

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more info,

QUOTE]Originally posted by A-Train
Blackjack,

Sometimes you just have to take initiative and research the subject. Finally execute it.

Asking for step-by-step instructions means you can't do it and you need help. Which is fine, everyone asks questions, even me. The problem is, nobody does anything for themselves anymore. They just want the answers without getting their own fingers dirty.


When you swap the new engine in, you use your harness. You ditch the coil-on-plug ignition from the '99 and up GT engines and use your DIS system. Your 1995 4.6L has to change over to the new intake and that means extra parts. I also believe you'll have to cut and custom wire your engine harness (which is no big deal). Why? Well, the new sensor locations won't mate up to most of your old sensor pigtails (i.e. the IAC valve). Some things will have to change. The new '96 and up IAC valves use a different style connector than the '95 and older cars. If you plan on using the '99-'02 IAC valve (good idea, it comes with the engine and it's fresher) you must find the proper pigtail from the wiring harness and splice it into your harness (cut your old pigtail connector off).

Use your old manifolds or JBA headers. You need a T-Bird oil pan, a T-Bird oil pump pick-up tube (buy a new one), a new front timing cover seal, a new crankshaft bolt, I recommend new engine mounts for the MN12 (which need to be ground for the PI Windsor blocks additional webbing). Etc. Etc.

The electronic part is easy. You use the right MAF, 19 lb./hr. injectors and a good fuel pump and it will start with your EEC-V. Trust me. It won't run 100% without a custom tune, but believe me it will run.

Find any '99-'02 GT engine. The '99-'00 are mostly WINDSOR 4.6L engines. The '01-'02 are mostly ROMEO 4.6L engines. A ROMEO would be a little easier to swap.


A-Train
[/QUOTE]
 
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