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swapping my front sway bar end links with new moog pieces. issue is when i try to tighten the nut the endlinks just rotate within the socket. any ideas?

THanks!
David
 

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swapping my front sway bar end links with new moog pieces. issue is when i try to tighten the nut the endlinks just rotate within the socket. any ideas?

THanks!
David
Vice-Grips?
 

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With the upper control arm disconnected from the spindle thread the nut onto the endlink, pull the top of the spindle toward you to "load/jam" the endlink in it's hole. Tighten. That's how I've always done it.
 

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Squeeze them with channel locks while tightening. There is a spot to grab onto, that is precisely what I did last month with my new Moog end links. :)
 

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Maybe reuse your old nuts. The new links come with eccentric (crushed) nuts that are hard to get on without an impact. If you don't have them take the link to lowes or a hardware store and they will match up a nut with the right thread. Put a bit of locktite blue and it will be fine.
 

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An impact wrench to install swaybar endlinks ?? :confused:

Once the eccentric nut starts to thread onto the shaft it is EASY to thread on .. its just getting past the first few threads that needs the endlink stud to be tight in the spindle hole.
 

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An impact wrench to install swaybar endlinks ?? :confused:

Once the eccentric nut starts to thread onto the shaft it is EASY to thread on .. its just getting past the first few threads that needs the endlink stud to be tight in the spindle hole.
Thats what I used on one side, it buzzes the nut on before the stud even has time to think about rotating. :)
 

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I've used a small jack on the opposite end of the nut and pressed it in like it would normally go, and that will stop it spinning alot of the time. This works good for ball joints etc too (more so with joints that are parallel to the ground so you can put pressure on the jont/basically jack the car up slighlty with it and it will be much easier to tighten then...)
 

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I've used a small jack on the opposite end of the nut and pressed it in like it would normally go, and that will stop it spinning alot of the time. This works good for ball joints etc too (more so with joints that are parallel to the ground so you can put pressure on the jont/basically jack the car up slighlty with it and it will be much easier to tighten then...)
Also smart. :)

I couldnt do that though because I assembled my subframe on a bench.
 

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Try a long prybar and put pressure on the head of it. Might need a friend to do that while you try to tighten it quick...
 

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I just picked up a Deeza swaybar link from Rockauto. I paid a buck extra for it because it claimed to have wrench flats to deal with just this problem. I went to put it in today, and no f'ing flats! I ended up riding my bike to the hardware store to pick up some plain nuts that I put on with blue loctite. No problem there, and it is awesome to have a quiet ride without that dang rattle in the front end! It occurred to me later that I could have tightened the plain nuts to jam the tapered stem in the hole, then backed them off and put the lock nuts on. That probably would have worked, and I wouldn't have to worry about whether or not the loctite would hold. Guess I'm just bein' paranoid.
 

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