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Discussion Starter #1
Update on the brakes: Had to move the SC last Thursday and yestarday. Well, when I moved it last week...seemed like I had brakes again. So I drove it around the block and they seem to work (power assisted)...but my red brake light still came on for a second when I stepped on the pedal and then went right out, did it yestarday too. Why would I have brakes (power assisted), then no power assist, and then power assist again??

Now I'm thinking it may not be the hydro boost after all...next thing to look at?? Pump motor, accumulator ??
Also, the ABS system seems to not function at all....like it's turned off--gonna check fuses (again) and relays Thursday.
 

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Abs

If you still have the original Teves ABS unit, it sounds like the accumulator is bad. Not holding pressure anymore.

Randall
 

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As above (fails first)
Or pump relay (can fail second, because of the above)
Or Pump itself (Can Fail next because no one cared to fix the above two)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, here's where I'm at....borrowed a OBD1 code scanner from a buddy at work and checked the memory for the controller at the harness in the trunk. Got 2 codes: #21 ---Main Valve (disconnect 2 Pin Plug on Hydraulic Actuator Assembly & measure resistance. 2 to 5.5 Ohms, service cable harness, any other reading, replace Actuation Assembly) and #42 ---RH Front Sensor (Requires EEC breakout box to check harness but sensor can be checked 800 to 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that...replace wheel sensor). **The codes I found at SCCoA in an article by Duffy Floyd---thanks** Just for kicks, I unplugged the Actuator and re-read the codes and only got #21....no #42 code. Got my Multi Meter and took readings at the actuator....did a couple of Ohms settings because I wasn't sure what to set it at and got the following: Set at 200 --- Actuator = 04.1 / Harness = No reading. Set at 20k ---Actuator = 0.01 / Harness = 3.32. All other settings resulted in no readings, so I'm not sure which of the above is right.
After all that, I checked the pump...pressed the brake pedal about 15 times or so, turned the key to on (did not start the engine) and listened and I could hear the pump operating. Then I checked to see why I'm not getting the ABS light to come on so I pulled the instrument cluster out. Well, found that someone had pulled the bulb and socket out of the ABS plug. Found a spare bulb and socket I had kept from my '91 Tempo and plugged it in, put it back together, and walla....the ABS light now works----imagine that.
After that, I got everything back together and started it up, the ABS and Brake light came on and went out after 4 seconds or so, and took it for a quick dive. Drove for a few minutes and the ABS and Brake light came on for a second when I pressed the brake pedal, then went right out. If I eased into the brakes, neither light came. Drove alittle more and the ABS light came on and stayed on, but no Brake light...and the brakes seemed to work fine. Even got on them hard and they grabbed and locked up the wheels, but the ABS system didn't work at all.

Now I think I'm closer to getting this thing figure out...I'm pretty sure the RH sensor needs replaced. Don't know if the accumulator can affect the Actuator assembly or not, still don't completely understand how the TEVES systems works... Anyways, the only thing I can try is replace the accumulator and if that doesn't solve my problems, than the Actuator assembly would need to be replaced, which means I would still need to replace the booster after all, according to the literature I have, it says "The Actuation Assembly, Master Cylindar, booster and main valve are serviced as an assembly".

Any suggestions or am I heading the right way?? Thanks guys.
 

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replace the accumulator ASAP! which has been told a few times...

Code 21.. with that code typically the ABS light will come on after awhile of Driving (like in traffic) .. since that's how i got my code 21 on my '91 SC
Following everything the shop manual to a T for Diagnosing Code 21, and everything was checking out good.. For some demented reason i decided to run an Extra ground to the Ground point on the Actuator/Master And that code NEVER came up again

The Wheel sensor one.. well it may be a by product of other issues.. and with the shop manual they do say to fix the issues in Numeral order so..

So buy a Accumulator AND buy a ABS pump Relay (trust me on the later, it may be on it's last legs)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where can I find an Accumulator??? Went to my Auto Parts store and they can't get it....they can get everything else but the Accumulator. Did try to local dealership....they said they can only get one if the threaded nipple on the accumulator is 15 mm, if it's 12 mm ---they can not get it. And I guess it's a whole kit for $575.00....sounds high to me.
 

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I paid like $300 cdn for mine from the dealership.. I think final Bill was like $340 with A Pump Relay and taxes (of like 14%:eek: )

You can find out the threads by pumping the brake pedal a few dozen times with the Key off.. Then get access to the Accumulator, wrap a few rags around the base of it to catch any brake fluid, unscrew it and measure.. Should only take like 10 minutes to remove it..

I think people have given links as to where one can get it, unless you're only interested in local places??
 

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the accumulator is $120 from S.I.A. electronics, i just swapped mine out last week

if you drive around and that pump stays running you'll burn it up, i know i had it happen to me on my other sc, had to get the pump rebuilt which could have been avoided

I posted S.I.A. Electronics number on sccoa numerous times, do a search
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. I'll search for the link on SCCoA. I don't really care where I can get parts, as long as I can save money. Already have the relay, picked it up last week for $50.00. Waitting for the weather to break and warm up alittle so I can check the wheel sensor issue and take the accumulator off and go from there.
 
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