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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
`I have read all the older posts on finding a door strike bushing for my 96TB, but none of them reference a workable part # for the 96TB.

Can anyone reference a part #? I have searched the entire internet and can not find a workable part # for this bushing.

Thanks for any help.

Glen
96TB
 

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Dorman 38445 is the whole thing.

Bushing itself you'll have to make, maybe out of PEX tubing (never got from one guy what size it should be.)

RwP
 

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Dorman sells the whole assembly. //they are very hard to disassemble to replace just the roller
 

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Agreed - the whole assembly is inexpensive. Need a Torx socket to R&R it, and mark the door before pulling the old one off.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help. I used a 1/2" dia piece of PEX tubing to make the bushing. The ID and OD were good. The OD may have been a hair to wide, but closing the door several times squashed the tube a little and it works fine. I rather have the bushing slightly wider and have a tightly closed door. I hope this posting helps other owners.

FYI, the Ford bushing part is now obsolete.

Glenn
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
By the way, I meant to also say that my 96TB would never still be on the road without the help of this forum. The forum has helped me repair my TB numerous times during the last 8 years. Please keep the forum active my TB depends on your knowledge to keep running.

Thanks,

Glenn
 

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Good fix, but if it's so big the sleeve crushes, it will fall into pieces in a matter of time. It needs to be the exact diameter. Spend the $10 on the correct kit.

Al
 

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1994 Thunderbird LX - V8
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Auveco makes a replacement. I'm not sure of the part #.

Google: "Auveco Ford Door Lock Striker" and you'll get a lot of hits.

BTW, I've bought a lot of small replacement parts made by Auveco, bolts, clips, electrical connectors, etc. It's good quality stuff.
 

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The Dorman 38445 has already been mentioned in this thread, and has been used by almost every member on this forum.

Al
 

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I took a piece of 1/2 inch clear plastic hose, the stuff you get at Ace Hardware, and cut it to length, took the post to the grinder and beveled the step a bit, then put some lubricant on the post and pressed the hose on to the post. It's cheap, durable and will save your door jams from cracking & hinges from sagging. If your hinges are already sagging that also needs to be addressed as well.

Read ya later, NIck
 

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Old thread, but I'll add my .02 cents for 2021, since it was here that I learned what to buy.

I can confirm that Dorman's 38445 kit is a perfect match & fit of the factory original to replace the driver's side door striker on a 1997 Thunderbird. I just replaced it tonight, due to the shattered cylindrical bushing. In fact, the match is so good that you can mix & match the old and new parts if you want to continue using the original striker & bolt with the new bushing.

NOTES:
T-50 star bit socket is required to remove/reinstall the bolt.

For '97 Birds, the retaining nut behind the door jamb panel stays in place and will not fall into the panel when the bolt is removed. I've read about other models of Fords, where the nut will fall into the panel somewhere and ruin your day, but this doesn't appear to be an issue with the Birds.

Re-alignment of the striker isn't a big issue. There's no left/right alignment, just the up/down angle, so make sure you mark off the position of the old striker before removing it, then match those markings with the reinstall.

The only possible negative is the thin metal washer they include with the kit, that might cause issues. The original washer on the car is a thicker & more pliable material. It's easy to discard the new washer and re-use the factory washer if it's still intact.
 

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Old thread, but I'll add my .02 cents for 2021, since it was here that I learned what to buy.

I can confirm that Dorman's 38445 kit is a perfect match & fit of the factory original to replace the driver's side door striker on a 1997 Thunderbird. I just replaced it tonight, due to the shattered cylindrical bushing. In fact, the match is so good that you can mix & match the old and new parts if you want to continue using the original striker & bolt with the new bushing.

NOTES:
Same here. I had no idea that there were little loose bushings that were supposed to fit onto those bolts. The '95 Thunderbird I bought was missing both and had little high-pitched squeaks coming from everywhere. I guessed doors, but maybe it was loose passenger side headrest? Or stiff suspension (aftermarket bushings)? But stumbling across this thread and ordering a couple of the kits from Rock Auto, it was very straightforward to fix. Now both doors close correctly (no rattle/squeak) and it's mercifully quiet inside while driving.

This site has explained a lot to me over the years that is obvious to some but unknown to me. Thanks to all.
 
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Same here. I had no idea that there were little loose bushings that were supposed to fit onto those bolts. The '95 Thunderbird I bought was missing both and had little high-pitched squeaks coming from everywhere. I guessed doors, but maybe it was loose passenger side headrest? Or stiff suspension (aftermarket bushings)? But stumbling across this thread and ordering a couple of the kits from Rock Auto, it was very straightforward to fix. Now both doors close correctly (no rattle/squeak) and it's mercifully quiet inside while driving.

This site has explained a lot to me over the years that is obvious to some but unknown to me. Thanks to all.
Yes, this site is a goldmine of info for MN12 Bird & Cougar owners, thanks to so many knowledgeable people on here.

Funny that you mention that you thought it might be a squeaky headrest. On my '97, I had a minor interior squeak for years that only happened on bumps & rough roads and always annoyed me. So I finally tracked it down to the passenger side leather headrest, which I always had fully extended. I pushed it back down into the seat...and the squeak vanished. Tested both ways again to confirm it was the headrest being fully extended that allowed enough play between the two posts and their seat mountings to cause the squeak.

Weird, but whatever works.
 
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