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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, i really need to beef up my front suspension on my 96tbird, because im sick of things going bad on me wen the car only has 57000 miles, i do drive very very aggresive, but anyway i just replaced my both my upper control arms and now come to find out that i have to replace both my inner tierods and both front wheel bearings, so my question is what would be the best parts that i can get so i dont have to keep fixing this crap, the also has 350hp and 370tq just for refrence
 

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Moog, TRW, Motorcraft for almost everything.

Only Ford for the strut rod bushings.

And one thing to consider, it's not the 57,000 miles, but the 16-17 years that's getting it.

Rubber fails, and if you haven't been aggressive keeping it in good shape, it'll fail and let dirt into and grease out of "sealed" units (such as the tie rod ends, ball joints, etc.)

Also - you might as well wish you didn't have to put oil and gas into the car, or tires on it.

Keep it in good shape, keep the maintenance up on it, and you'll be able to drive with minimal concern and with a long trip between service events. Ignore it (which I bet you did, if you've been heating up the power train but not checking the suspension first), and it'll bite you every time.

RwP
 

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Agreed with Ralph. Moog, Motorcraft, TRW; and TRW is the OEM suspension mfg. for Ford.

BTW, Just curious, how'd you get to 350 hp /370 tq ? Those are some impressive numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i got ford racing heads, comp cams, trick flow intake manifold, trickflow timing gears and chains, 2000 mustang timing chain cover, CAI intake, 75mm MAF and a chip, tring to get the motor ready for a cobra supercharger but havin lots of trouble with the suspension...
 

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As you get older, you'll realize you've done that backwards.

A COMPLETE suspension rebuild with quality name brand parts will run less than a Trickflow intake manifold on a 4.6 ... and yields a car that can safely handle what you're putting down.

What you have now is a not-as-safe vehicle with lots'a go that won't stay on the road right.

I don't see in your profile, but I'd bet you're 25 or under (just as a wild guess - lotsa show for the girls, not as much preplanning.)

RwP
 

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i got ford racing heads, comp cams, trick flow intake manifold, trickflow timing gears and chains, 2000 mustang timing chain cover, CAI intake, 75mm MAF and a chip, tring to get the motor ready for a cobra supercharger but havin lots of trouble with the suspension...

You have 350 RWHP/370 RWTQ from a set of PI heads/cams/manifold and a chip?

What exactly are you doing to the motor to get it ready for a Cobra Supercharger?

What do you plan on doing with the trickflow manifold after you install the Cobra supercharger?

Any idea how a Cobra (4V) supercharger will "bolt up" to your "Ford racing" (2V) heads?

Do you happen to have a dyno sheet to back up this claim?

Exactly what type of "trouble" are you having with the suspension?

What have you replaced that has failed again and what brand parts did you use?

Your car is old, replacing suspension parts like UCA's, LCA's (w/BJ's), bearings (including the rear's w/hubs), is normal for these cars and given the fact that you drive "very, very aggressively" might give you a clue as to why your 15yr old car's suspension parts need replacing.

The folks here can help but please cut the BS.

Going back to sleep now,

-Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Found manifold for 100 online thats why i got temporay it and getting a kit tork tech but still putting forged rods pistons and crank and already put new uper, and lower ball joints on awhile ago
 

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Found manifold for 100 online thats why i got temporay it and getting a kit tork tech but still putting forged rods pistons and crank and already put new uper, and lower ball joints on awhile ago
When you wrap your car around a pole due to zero supporting mods for that kind of power, I'll take the forged parts and Tork Tech kit...
 

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I'd buy that in a heartbeat. Don't forget the front shock mounts. Forget about ball joints just buy complete arms. Moog only for tie rod ends. Like Ralph said Ford for the strut rod bushings. Shocks you can do whatever you want I have tokico blues and like them but others don't like them. I think it is because they didn't replace everything else as I did. Front engine control braces stiffen up the front a ton. I make my own but there are others here that make them as well.


Alan
 

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Are those welded on or bolted? or both?
 

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Made a world of difference when I replaced everything on my car with Moog parts. Using SC shocks and sway bars with Eibach springs. :)
 

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Are those welded on or bolted? or both?
I weld a bracket onto the rear then everything else is bolted on. I plan on making a batach of my revised version which connect to the front of the subframe as well in about a month. I had the connectors made by a buddy of mine who doesn't work in that business anymore so when I run out of those I will quit makin them.


Same goes for the RTLB I made, I gave up on them with aftermarket exhaust I think I need to make somethign that goes over instead of under. I even made them adjsutable but unless the exhaust shop keeps the pipes tight they still don't clear.

Alan
 

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I will be in for one that goes over Alan per your exact reason . I believe that my pipes are in the way as well.
 

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I think I am going to make 2 angle brackets that bolt to the mount location I don't see any other way to make it work, maybe put a bracket in front of the moutn to connect them together, but that may be overkill.
Alan
 

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it's been awhile since i re did the front suspension in my '91 but i went all Ford (don't think you can get everything from Ford now-a-days :( )

And thinking of bracing, a twist to what Kenny Brown (and later someone else) was doing..


Picture 104 by 91XR7, on Flickr

And as you can tell, my car is lowered a little :) not the cleanest car underneath but i was more for function then show :)
 

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Yeah that is why I did my braces the way I did, Mine sit above the subframe not below. Only the bolt head is lower than the subframe and that is directly in line with the wheels so it won't drag anyway.
Alan
 

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Yeah that is why I did my braces the way I did, Mine sit above the subframe not below. Only the bolt head is lower than the subframe and that is directly in line with the wheels so it won't drag anyway.
Alan
Well it was my first version of the braces. like they say `Hind sight is always 20-20'
BUT on the other hand, the bracing hitting the road surface instead of the sub frame is not a BAD thing :) and usually it only hits on dips in the road, i have not had them hit with speed pumps, ect it's usually the exhaust that hit in that situation :)
 
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