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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys,

I am trying to rebuild a rear and Iam going to use the trac-loc from a previous SC rear I have. I am trying to remove the center's inners and can not seem to get it out. Can anyone give or point me in the direction of a "how to" on removing this please?

Thanks.

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Put two blocks of wood on the ground. Lay a towel in the middle. Set the pumpkin on it with the rear flange resting on the wood so the carrier doesn't touch the wood. Pick it up and slam it on the wood. The carrier should drop out. It may take several tries. Make sure to do over dirt to prevent damage to your floor or gears. I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but it has worked for me in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had no idea the process was so... so... surgical! lol.

I have to admit, I didn't expect to get that as an answer, but OK! I'm game to give it a shot.

Thanks much guys! AND - Merry Christmas!

Now where'd I put my BFH?
 

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What I usually end up doing is this. I remove the small bolt thet retains the cross-shaft. I partially slide the cross-shaft down and let it butt up against the lower rear face of the housing. Then, from the top side of the housing I pry against a ring gear bolt. They usually come out fairly easily.
 

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I jam 2 prybars into the carrier and pry down.
Don't think it gets much easier than that. If it is aluminum you may need to spread the case.
Alan
 

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Not to hi-jack the thread but a question. I have a tlok out of a SC and I want to put 3.55(currently has 3.27). How hard is it to change the gears?! I also bought a ford rebuild kit. DO you guys recommend me paying someone to do it?!
 

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Tx_Cat said:
..DO you guys recommend me paying someone to do it?!
Yes. That being said, if you are willing to learn, dont mind making an investment in tools and wont be upset about goofing it up (90% chance of singing gears) go for it. It is probably easier to have it done though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
tbirdbrain said:
Yes. That being said, if you are willing to learn, dont mind making an investment in tools and wont be upset about goofing it up (90% chance of singing gears) go for it. It is probably easier to have it done though.

I am certainly not the expert seeing as I posted a question in the first place, HOWEVER, the guy building my rear is, and he has ALREADY given me a heads up on aftermarket gears that they can tend NOT to be made with the same tolerance as factory gears and have a higher likelyhood of making noise than a factory set. If you haven't already bought them, it could prove to be better to by a Ford set of the gear ratio that you desire... I hope this helps. I am a little screwed in that I went with the cheaper route and went with a set of non-Ford gears, so it is a 50/50 as to whether or not these will whine when I get them put in the newly rebuilt rear or not.
 

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Thanks for the tip.
 

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mercury267 said:
I am certainly not the expert seeing as I posted a question in the first place, HOWEVER, the guy building my rear is, and he has ALREADY given me a heads up on aftermarket gears that they can tend NOT to be made with the same tolerance as factory gears and have a higher likelyhood of making noise than a factory set. If you haven't already bought them, it could prove to be better to by a Ford set of the gear ratio that you desire... I hope this helps. I am a little screwed in that I went with the cheaper route and went with a set of non-Ford gears, so it is a 50/50 as to whether or not these will whine when I get them put in the newly rebuilt rear or not.

The 3.55 I have are Ford. Also, what tools are needed for such swap?! What I heard is that you needed to balance it? I really do not know... I would need more info on how to do it. I do not want to risk it you know.
 
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