[flybirdyfly]

hi this is for the people with lowered t-birds. did you get negative camber after lowering? if you did how did you fix it? were you at the limit of the alignment adjustment? just wondering if this is something I should be worried about if I want to lower the car in the future. I would say at most 1 inch drop. Ive heard of people using extended ball joints to remedy this.
after lowering the car how was your roll center and instant center affected and how did you correct it? sory if this has already been answered I have read a couple threads about it but haven't found a concrete answer. ]
im also interested in anti dive and anti squat but both of those search terms don't bring up a lot of stuff. I just get back a lot of "anti" threads like anti theft. The search function is kind of annoying me at this point haha
thanks

 

[Grog6]

You need to read a bit on how our cars suspensions are adjusted.

There is substantial adjustment room for everything.

My Tbird is dropped 2", and other than dragging on everything, and not being able to get a jack under it, it's fine.

 

[racecougar]

I just posted this on the other thread where you inquired about lowering, but...


As far as recommended specs go, this is what I would suggest:

Front:
Camber: Negative 0.8-1.3 You can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. I typically prefer mine at ~ -0.8-1.0.
Caster: Positive 5.0-6.0
Toe: Positive .05-.15 On a autocross car, you can go slightly negative, but you'll give up stability at speed. I keep mine at ~ +0.1.
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3 Going negative helps on crowned roads, but will cause a slight drift to the left otherwise.
Total Toe: Positive 0.1-0.3 Once again, this is for a car you'll be driving on the street. If it's an autocross car, a little negative toe will help on turn in.

Rear:
Camber: Negative 0.5-1.0 Same as the front, you can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. Also keep in mind that as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative. I like mine set at ~ -0.5.
Toe: Zero to +0.15 I'd lean toward +0.1 on both sides with Delrin LCA bushings and toward zero with the stock LCA bushings, as they'll allow an increase in toe when under power.
Cross Camber: Same as front. Keep it close to zero.
Total Toe: 0-0.3


These settings have worked well for me as an all-purpose alignment (drag racing, corner carving, and highway cruising) on this chassis without any real adverse effects on tire wear. If the intended use was autocross-type events only, drag racing only, etc., I'd set things a bit differently. These are just my recommendations.

If you're lowering the car just 1", all of these settings are more than "reachable".