TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,779 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,779 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i didnt say i was buying it just posting it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,024 Posts
Deus003 said:
What's wrong with it? Asking because I don't know, not to be an ***.

--Craig

Look at those "velocity stacks" lol - sucking air straight from the Hot Engine Valley.


They have way less runner than a PI intake - The pi coils up in the V - this one doesn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
$550 on ebay from some guy with a 0 rating in Turkey or $750 from their website. Hmm, that's only about $500 out of my budget! Not to mention that is too much bling, it just wouldn't look right with all the dirt and grease under my hood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,758 Posts
Kentwood said:
Look at those "velocity stacks" lol - sucking air straight from the Hot Engine Valley.


They have way less runner than a PI intake - The pi coils up in the V - this one doesn't.
I think you're missing the fact that something has to be epoxied onto the manifold. I'm guessing that the "velosity stacks" will be encased within a plenum. The actual air intake is in the normal location on the top. It pulls it into a plenum and then up through the stacks and into the runners. For a super high rpm engine, or a supercharged engine the runner length isn't all that important. Runner length is important for low end torque, not top end power. So the shorter and larger the runner/plenum, the better for all out power on top end. :D

Just my .02. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,024 Posts
94 Daily Driven 4.6L said:
I think you're missing the fact that something has to be epoxied onto the manifold. I'm guessing that the "velosity stacks" will be encased within a plenum. The actual air intake is in the normal location on the top. It pulls it into a plenum and then up through the stacks and into the runners. For a super high rpm engine, or a supercharged engine the runner length isn't all that important. Runner length is important for low end torque, not top end power. So the shorter and larger the runner/plenum, the better for all out power on top end. :D

Just my .02. :thumbsup:

Yes I know about the runner length.



I went to there site and saw the plenum box so at least I can tell how the air flows now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
Sometimes I wonder if the people making 4.6L performance parts have ever actually worked on a 4.6. As the answer appears to be no, I then wonder if they ever sat down and honestly designed it to perform. The Manifolds I've seen (though rare and expensive) just haven't been thought through. The RR intake looks like a revised drag racing intake from the 60s... but we arent running carbs, or using the same displacement/block and head design.
We need an intake with long runners like the PI, but larger area across the full length of the port. The NPI head I checked had an area of about 2.5in^2 at the gasket IIRC. The NPI intake runners are significantly smaller at 1.70in^2, and the PI's are about 2.45in^2 throughout. If that's being choked, we need something with 2.75-3in^2, maybe a little more. Remember I'm talking square inches, not diameter.
Lets compare notes:
area of equivalent tube/ Diameter of tube / description

7.07 in^2= 3.00" diam ~75mm TB area
5.14 in^2= 2.56" diam ~65mm TB area

1.70 in^2= 1.47" diam NPI intake runner area
2.45 in^2= 1.77" diam PI intake runner area
2.52 in^2= 1.79" diam NPI gasket area (port area at the head)
2.75 in^2= 1.87 diam minimum intake runner size
3.00 in^2= 1.95" diam large intake runner size

2.07 in^2= 1.625 diam 1 5/8" primary header
2.41 in^2= 1.75" diam 1 3/4" primary header

Keep in mind the exhaust side is being forced out, so it doesnt necessarily need as large an area as the intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,024 Posts
Silver95Bird said:
Sometimes I wonder if the people making 4.6L performance parts have ever actually worked on a 4.6. As the answer appears to be no, I then wonder if they ever sat down and honestly designed it to perform. The Manifolds I've seen (though rare and expensive) just haven't been thought through. The RR intake looks like a revised drag racing intake from the 60s... but we arent running carbs, or using the same displacement/block and head design.
We need an intake with long runners like the PI, but larger area across the full length of the port. The NPI head I checked had an area of about 2.5in^2 at the gasket IIRC. The NPI intake runners are significantly smaller at 1.70in^2, and the PI's are about 2.45in^2 throughout. If that's being choked, we need something with 2.75-3in^2, maybe a little more. Remember I'm talking square inches, not diameter.
Lets compare notes:
area of equivalent tube/ Diameter of tube / description

7.07 in^2= 3.00" diam ~75mm TB area
5.14 in^2= 2.56" diam ~65mm TB area

1.70 in^2= 1.47" diam NPI intake runner area
2.45 in^2= 1.77" diam PI intake runner area
2.52 in^2= 1.79" diam NPI gasket area (port area at the head)
2.75 in^2= 1.87 diam minimum intake runner size
3.00 in^2= 1.95" diam large intake runner size

2.07 in^2= 1.625 diam 1 5/8" primary header
2.41 in^2= 1.75" diam 1 3/4" primary header

Keep in mind the exhaust side is being forced out, so it doesnt necessarily need as large an area as the intake.

And keeping a big cross section and long runner without losing air velocity
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,161 Posts
NEW PRODUCT:WE HAVE STARTED DESIGNING A RPM STABILIZER FOR
CENTRIFUGAL SUPERCHARGERS.WHAT DOES THIS DO?IT GIVES YOU FULL
BOOST AT 1000 ENGINE RPM GIVING THE CENTRIFUGAL BLOWER LOW END
POWER WHICH IT LACKS.
WE MAY HOPEFULLY SAY THAT THERE WILL BE NO LONGER A NEED FOR
POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT BLOWERS.
**SEE THE NEW PRE-POLISHED PI INTAKE WITH JERRY MOD HERE**
*AFTER BEING SUGGESTED BY A CORRAL.NET MEMBER (KUMA) ,WE HAVE
DECIDED TO INCORPORATE THE JERRY MOD TO THE INTAKE.THE JERRY MOD
CONSINSTS OF TAPPING THE REAR UNUSED DRIVER SIDE WATER
WELL,THREADING A NIPPLE THERE AND THREADING ANOTHER NIPPLE TO THE
DUAL TEMPERATURE SENSOR PROBE HOUSING TO LET MAKE THE #7 AND #8
CYLINDERS HAVE BETTER COOLING.
SIMPLE AS IT SOUNDS IT IS A GREAT WELL THOUGHT OF MOD. THANKS JERRY.
Uhhh....ok.
 

·
02 Explorer Pioneer
Joined
·
2,880 Posts
Actually if you read the threads over at MD Jerry has outlined the cooling mod he describes. I will also say the MD folks have told him to quit posting until he can show some dyno numbers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,024 Posts
timb said:
Actually if you read the threads over at MD Jerry has outlined the cooling mod he describes. I will also say the MD folks have told him to quit posting until he can show some dyno numbers

The rolling eyes was at they said "Thanks Jerry" like he gave them permission.


And the cooling mod works - makes the diff between burnt up plugs - I never heard him claim it help horsepower - I guess in a roundabout way it does since it helps prevent knock you can tune it a little more aggressive.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,161 Posts
FOR YOU KNOWLEDGE PURPLE RACING IS NOT LOCATED IN THE STATES,IT IS LOCATED IN ANKARA-TURKEY,SO OUR PRODUCTS COULD HAVE BEEN EVEN CHEAPER IF WE WERE IN THE STATES.
Yeah, I see that tech support really workin good for us..... :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
Kentwood said:
And keeping a big cross section and long runner without losing air velocity
That's the whole problem - everyone thinks you'll lose too much velocity. It's a load of crap. We're on the opposite end of the spectrum. As per our favorite Ford engineer emeritus, when the velocity hits about 7/10 the speed of sound the flow drops off dramatically. On an NPI intake, this is about 4000 rpm. If you're used to the acceleration dying at that RPM, this is exactly what you're feeling. PI intakes do the same thing, just at a higher rpm, so lightly modded cars wont notice. If you're building an aftermarket intake, it has to have bigger runners or it will be useless. People buying aftermarket intakes are generally spinning to at least 6000-6500, some have heads that will support 7000. We need an intake that flows at least enough for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,024 Posts
Silver95Bird said:
That's the whole problem - everyone thinks you'll lose too much velocity. It's a load of crap. We're on the opposite end of the spectrum. As per our favorite Ford engineer emeritus, when the velocity hits about 7/10 the speed of sound the flow drops off dramatically. On an NPI intake, this is about 4000 rpm. If you're used to the acceleration dying at that RPM, this is exactly what you're feeling. PI intakes do the same thing, just at a higher rpm, so lightly modded cars wont notice. If you're building an aftermarket intake, it has to have bigger runners or it will be useless. People buying aftermarket intakes are generally spinning to at least 6000-6500, some have heads that will support 7000. We need an intake that flows at least enough for that.

Of course the stock intake chokes - but we're not talking stock intakes in this thread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
Exactly. Reread my posts and then compare them to this purple intake. I dont think this one is any better than a Bullitt intake. From their pics and descriptions, its shorter runners with what I'm assuming is a 40mm (diameter?? their page isnt specific) tube - which would equate to 1.57", which is inbetween NPI and PI as far as that goes. I'm not impressed. Driving this intake around town would suck. It's going to lose the midrange torque and it's going to peak early, assuming their description is accurate. Believe it or not, if it's engineered right it can do both at least acceptably well. So far the only decent looking intake I've seen has been the P51 that KenB tested on MD.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top