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I just picked up a '97 Mark Viii LSC to replace my tbird as my new daily driver. It's bittersweet since my tbird has been my daily since I was 16 years old, but shes just not as reliable anymore and I feel guilty each time the mileage goes up (140k). Anyways, the Mark has 91k on it. I know there are plenty of Mark owners here, is there anything specific I should check now that I got her home? I'll post pics tomorrow.
 

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Nice catch, always had a soft spot for a Mark VIII as the daily and the T-bird as the "other car". ;)

I'm not much help with the specifics of the Gen 2 Marks, but I seem to recall the blend door being a common trouble spot...
 

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I just picked up a '97 Mark Viii LSC to replace my tbird as my new daily driver. It's bittersweet since my tbird has been my daily since I was 16 years old, but shes just not as reliable anymore and I feel guilty each time the mileage goes up (140k). Anyways, the Mark has 91k on it. I know there are plenty of Mark owners here, is there anything specific I should check now that I got her home? I'll post pics tomorrow.
Blend door is a common issue. Apparently requires dropping the dash, but you can pull on a cable behind the glove box for temp heat. See MarkVIII.org for info.

If you have HID's and have a burnt out bulb...well, they're discontinued so you're SOL on keeping HID's. You'll have to convert to halogens or maybe find a NOS HID bulb.

The neon in the center taillight can go bad, and I don't know if it can be fixed.

If you still have air ride, make sure everything's in working order, also make sure the vents operate properly (car lowers like it's supposed to).

The fuel filter is in the passenger side wheel well, hidden behind the splash shield. It's commonly neglected since a lot of mechanics will think it's an in-tank filter when they don't see one.

The two piece driveshafts can be a problem, so I hear, but I have a 93 with an aluminum one piece :D

Otherwise, they're pretty much the same as the Birds with repair issues, etc. except the engine bay is cramped even more! :rolleyes:

I would do a thorough inspection of the whole car, same as you would any other used car you have just bought.

Enjoy the new Mark!
 

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-Hid and rear Neon functionality
-Check to see if the heat works- Blend door actuator is common and a b to fix
-Cupholders- Broken?
-Under trunk emmisions tray- Rust
-Vacuum lines on top of intake manifold- Check for cracks
-If it's still on air be sure it doesn't leak after sitting a day or two. When the compressor is running it should make a slight hum, lou/clanky= Bad.
-All of the suspension, specifically uca/lca and strut rod bushings.
-Check to see if the rear swaybar is broken in half from rust. It is hollow and much more susceptible to breaking.

Edit:

Blend door is a common issue. Apparently requires dropping the dash, but you can pull on a cable behind the glove box for temp heat. See MarkVIII.org for info.

Dash has to be pulled lout a 3-4", the fix only works if it breaks a certain way. $6-800 fix at the dealer, $30 and a weekend will also get it done.

If you have HID's and have a burnt out bulb...well, they're discontinued so you're SOL on keeping HID's. You'll have to convert to halogens or maybe find a NOS HID bulb.

Regular aftermarket hid kits can be used with the use of a adapter made by a M8 member, or you could make your own. No need to purchase the expensive Ford hologen kit. NOS Oem hids have been extinct for the last 10 or so years. I'm a fan of Vvme hids, cheap and work great with the m8 setup.

The neon in the center taillight can go bad, and I don't know if it can be fixed.

The ballast goes bad most of the time. You could either buy a used unit on ebay for 100-150 or buy a new aftermarket "Glitch" ballast ($100) that is still being sold. Do look for moisture/black crud in the neon itself

If you still have air ride, make sure everything's in working order, also make sure the vents operate properly (car lowers like it's supposed to).

:thumbsup:

The fuel filter is in the passenger side wheel well, hidden behind the splash shield. It's commonly neglected since a lot of mechanics will think it's an in-tank filter when they don't see one.

:thumbsup:

The two piece driveshafts can be a problem, so I hear, but I have a 93 with an aluminum one piece :D

93 has the good ds. :mad: I don't usually go fast enough for it to be a big concern. Even when present it isn't horrible but every mark is different.

Otherwise, they're pretty much the same as the Birds with repair issues, etc. except the engine bay is cramped even more! :rolleyes:

Still pretty easy to work on with the exception of valve cover gaskets. :eek:

I would do a thorough inspection of the whole car, same as you would any other used car you have just bought.



Enjoy the new Mark!
 

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Do tell about this tray.. are you referring to the charcoal canister? Never paid much attention to mine, didn't realize it was a problem area either :confused:
Yeah, it holds the CC's. It's a gen2 thing. They'll eventually rot out in the northern states, if not caught in time you can loose the whole tray and its contents. Also wise to check the crossbar for rust that the tray screws into. I replaced it and thought all was well, eventually the crossbar rusted out leaving half of my tray banging on the ground. Luckily I caught it quickly and rigged up a new more secure mount.

What my tray looked like 7 years ago @ 125k~







I just noticed he's from the bay area, shouldn't have to worry about the rust stuff.




.
 

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Yeah, it holds the CC's. It's a gen2 thing. They'll eventually rot out in the northern states, if not caught in time you can loose the whole tray and its contents. Also wise to check the crossbar for rust that the tray screws into. I replaced it and thought all was well, eventually the crossbar rusted out leaving half of my tray banging on the ground. Luckily I caught it quickly and rigged up a new more secure mount.

What my tray looked like 7 years ago @ 125k~




I just noticed he's from the bay area, shouldn't have to worry about the rust stuff.

Good to know.

Lucky southerners.... no rust, no snow, no salt, living the dream.

At least we don't have hurricane season though
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the info. Spent most of the day taking care of all the paperwork so I couldn't dive into the mark just yet.

From what I do know...I do not have heat, but found a receipt from 2011 for "rear air springs and solenoid" replacement. I have yet to notice any change in ride height.





 

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Nice! That is my cars sibling, Silver Frost with Graphite interior. Mine even had an Interstate battery when I bought it. I have chrome bullits on mine now though.
 

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Nice! That is my cars sibling, Silver Frost with Graphite interior. Mine even had an Interstate battery when I bought it. I have chrome bullits on mine now though.
Thanks. These wheels are only temporary. I would prefer silver speedstars or staggered bullits.
 

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found a receipt from 2011 for "rear air springs and solenoid" replacement. I have yet to notice any change in ride height.
The car should pump itself up ~3/4" when you start it to achieve "city height" for additional clearance over bumps. Over ~55 MPH, it'll drop down back to parked height for enhanced aerodynamics and stability at speed, then after you've dropped below 45 MPH for a short time it'll pump itself back up to city height. It'll reduce back to parked height after you shut the car off and leave the car.

Lots of good info here, btw: http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/index.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Does anyone have the fuel pressure specs for a 97 mark viii? I recently changed the oil and it smelled like gas. Looking to diagnose a possible leaking fuel injector. Gas mileage is around 15 city and 25 highway. When I bought the car I replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the PCV valve, and replaced the Coil boots.
 

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I'd imagine it'd be more or less the same as the 4.6L MN12:

Key-on/engine off 35 psi
Idle 30-35 psi
No vacuum/WOT 40-45 psi
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'd imagine it'd be more or less the same as the 4.6L MN12:

Key-on/engine off 35 psi
Idle 30-35 psi
No vacuum/WOT 40-45 psi
I believe the 97/98 Marks have variable voltage so I would assume the specs would differ slightly.
 
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