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Raoul Duke
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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
10/8/11 Update:


Here is how they look five months later. They sure don't look brand-new, but I'm happy so far. They would have been tinged yellow by now had I not used the UV-blocking clearcoat.

 

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It has been about a year now for my polish job+ lacquer clear coat and it is holding up very nicely.
 

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Raoul Duke
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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Update

UPDATE: 3-17-12

It's been 10 months since I used the UV-blocking clearcoat. They have held up well, but there may be a slight yellow tinge forming. Even so, they would have been much worse had I not clearcoated them.

I hope this helps those who have subscribed to this thread.

 

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The more you use the lights, the faster the clear would burn off making it thin from the heat. There is no protection in spray can paint, whats makes it hard? Nothing because there in no hardner. Also, the finer the sand paper grit the less adhesion. Clear coat can cover 600 grit ;) and thats strong enough to bite into. Anything over 800 is risking it.
I`m suprise to see the clear held on that long consdiering you used a spray can. I`ve done many headlights using Dupont clears and the Imron 6000 held up the best. But then again the lights were all on tractor trailers and they take some serious abuse.
 

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It may not be a permanent solution for yellowing headlights but I think it was worth the effort. Even if you did this once a year it would be worth it to me. Imagine what they would look like with no protection. My bird is 18 years old and there are a lot of things I've had to redo over and over to keep the car looking newer-ish, especially with interior things.
 

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Do you think some clear coat over that would help keep it in check ? I live in the sand and wind of the desert and I drive at my speed limiter sometimes .
 

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Just came back to say that about 8-10 months ago I polished my '95s and my mother's Subaru headlights and I regularly apply the "Clear Headlight Protectant" (in a clear bottle, at Advance Auto Parts) to mine and she has as well .... it seems to slow the degredation but you still see it happen over time. Maybe if you apply it weekly? :D

The more you use the lights, the faster the clear would burn off making it thin from the heat. There is no protection in spray can paint, whats makes it hard? Nothing because there in no hardner. Also, the finer the sand paper grit the less adhesion. Clear coat can cover 600 grit ;) and thats strong enough to bite into. Anything over 800 is risking it.I`m suprise to see the clear held on that long consdiering you used a spray can. I`ve done many headlights using Dupont clears and the Imron 6000 held up the best. But then again the lights were all on tractor trailers and they take some serious abuse.
I'm gonna try it with 600 here on that old odd ball headlight. My '92 still looks good with no clear but it sits in a carport almost always. The '95 is my DD and I have room for only 4 under covers so the '95 and my '77 F150 sit out. But that first time with the Krylon .... I think I had the surface too polishjed before applying the paint (I cleaned the surface, but I think I just had it too slick).

Might try the Krylon again and if that don't look right, get some " Sign Painters 1 shot 4005A ".
 

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Let me ask y'all something. After y'all spray the clear coat on your headlights to extend the life before they need refinishing, then the year to year and a half later when you DO require refinishing, how tough is it to sand all the clear coat AND oxidation off to start all over again?
 

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I like the thought process of the clear in a can, but food for thought... I have a tint shop here about an hour away from you @cougarcragar just north of Youngstown....

I have been installing a film on headlights and tail lights called Lamin-x for about a year now on customers cars and my own. It comes in many different shades, but they do offer a clear film that blocks the UVA/UVB rays to prevent the "yellowing" and fading headlights and has worked well.
 

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Let me ask y'all something. After y'all spray the clear coat on your headlights to extend the life before they need refinishing, then the year to year and a half later when you DO require refinishing, how tough is it to sand all the clear coat AND oxidation off to start all over again?
Word! I wanna know this too so I can have a game plan for my "new" lights. The regular lacquer clear I used is all peeling and sucks now, maybe I should have used the uv blocker, or perhaps this lamin-x is the way to go. Is this something I can install myself?
 

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Raoul Duke
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Discussion Starter #35
Update

UPDATE - 7-29-13


It's been over two years since I started this thread, and my headlights still haven't turned yellow. This is the original UV-blocking clearcoat that I used in 2011 that you can see in the first post. This job was certainly well worth the effort.





 

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I'm going to buy a can of that asap. :)

Thanks!!
 

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Followed this method today, and the end result looks great! There wasn't a huge amount of visible yellow, but, as a stop-gap I had just sprayed clear over the poor looking ones last year.

The Start


Post 120 Grit Sanding


Post 220 Grit Sanding


Post 320 Grit Sanding (First Wet Sanding)


Post 400 Grit Sanding


Post 600 Grit Sanding


Post 800 Grit Sanding


Post Clear Coat spray.


Once the clear has hardened for a couple of days, I'll do a sand at 1000, 1500, 2000, then 2500 and then polish.
 

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I did this today; it is amazing how good it looks. :headbang:

My headlights look great; and the little cracks in the corner lights disappeared, which I did not expect.

Thanks for the tip!!
 

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I used a three step polish job on my 95 Cougar headlights a few days ago, so I guess I'm good to go for a month or two. No clear coat afterward though.

By the way, what are these "clear corners" that seem to be referred to here a lot? I've never heard the expression before I joined here.

Kevin
 
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