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Discussion Starter #1
As most of you guys know mt TCC lockup is an old and to most, including myself, an annoying issue. I just drive the car like it is and if I figure it out I figure it out, if I dont I dont. Took it to a tech I know yestarday for him to do a run scan on it. However, my OBD port would not let him establish a link. While driving it he had me turn overdrive off and it was still doing it. He said turning the OD off is suppose to disable the lockup but it still locks up. Then while sitting in park the darn thing locks up and kills the motor! I didnt notice those two things before last time I talked to you guys. Another thing he brought up was the ground straps and if I had one on the tranny. I dont think the guy who installed this put one on either the tranny or the motor. Said that could be the problem and the reason he couldnt establish a link. Putting those on today. Here's hoping.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Any idea what would cause it to lockup sittin there at idle?
 

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sticky TCC solenoid or valve?
 

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Nope, this transmission cvan not lockup in first gear. Either the engine is just stalling or the converter is coming apart inside. I think I have mentioned it before but I can come get this thing and fix it for you, you are about 1.5 hours from me roughly.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Took it to the trans shop today for a run scan. His actually worked. Anyway, he said he believes that everything is right and working inside the trans as far as wiring. The TC is doing exactly what the PCM is telling it to do. I think he read a couple of times showing 100% lockup in 3rd and 4th gear. He said it's just not releasing lockup and that I need to focus on whatever is associated with sending the signal to tell the TCC solenoid to release. I've already put a new TPS sensor on it. It doesnt release when I apply the brake either. Said I need to find a schematic and start there. So thats what I've found so far. Great, more electronic issues! Any clues as to where to start?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It has the A5W0 in right now. I tried changing the PCM a little while back and it was doing the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Youre probly the guy for this question for sure DD. I've been reading of guys putting in a switch to bypass the PCM and control the lockup manually. I was thinking of this option as well if I cant find the root of the problem. Some say it causes excessive heat runnin around with it unlocked. Of course I have the better GM tranny and a tranny cooler on it to help out. I do 95% around town driving and some say you would only need to lock up the TC on the highway. Does that sound accurate?
 

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On mine lockup works all the time. Manual lockup is touchy but possible. All you have to do is ground the tcc wire.
Did you use the 95 lockup solenoid when you changed the transmission?
Alan
 

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All you have to do is ground the tcc wire.
Did you use the 95 lockup solenoid when you changed the transmission?
Alan
The wire grounding out seems like a likely cause for an intermittent thing like this; and things never seem to get tied back down like they were originally, after something's been out.

Check to see if the harness is hitting an edge or a pipe and shorting out.

Hooking a lamp to the wire and taking a drive is a great way to check it.

The solenoid swap is a good question; this kills the eec, as the later ones are low impedance. Swapping the eec wouldn't fix it, it would kill the new eec. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I did use the 95 TCC yes. I ordered a new one when I put this tranny in. Had to cut the top of the connector off of the TCC solenoid so the cicuit board connector would go down on the prongs but all went together well. I will check for grounding out before I decide on the bypass switch definatly. I bought a 3 prong toggle switch today so do I put a 12v source on one prong, ground on one and the wire going to the TCC wire on the other? Probly should put a fuse in there somewhere huh? Wiring is definatly not my strong point. Reading your post there DD when you said your lockup works all the time, it doesnt actually engage until after it comes out of 1st gear? How bout when it downshifts into 1st, does it automatically unlock? What are the side affects of runnin it constantly locked or unlocked besides mpg?
 

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The solenoid is hot all the time the pcm controls ground. If you want to send power anywhere send it to the pcm to shut off the check engine light when you engage the tcc manually.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Found out somthing by accident today. When I was at the salvage yard looking at TCC solenoids, all the ones I was finding were white connectors. Those are the 10-13 ohm ones right? Mine was built Jan of 95. I was always under the impression that I need one with a black connector for the 1-3 ohms but could never find one. The new one I ordered is suppose to be a 1-3 but its a white connector. While at work today(Advance auto) I looked up a TCC solenoid for a 95 and got a borg warner brand part# of S9840 and its the same for all past 95. I looked one up for a 94 and it was part# of S9829! The picture also showed it to be a black connector! I know 95 was kinda a cross over year. Would a 10-13 ohm TCC solenoid be causing these same symptoms? I dont know wether or not it may have damaged the ecu so i was going to get ahold of another one and maybe order this 94 TCC solenoid and see what happens. Any opinions or education?
 

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That would explain it. Technically the book shows the new solenoid starting in 95, but the 95's used the 93-94 solenoid by the book. It seems only the ford dealer gets it right. I always OHM check them because improperly boxed parts happens often.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It does seem logical doesnt it. I can not find any wires touching anywhere and from an auto parts stand point I know the books are always right before the computers. That means everytime I got a new solenoid for a 95 I was getting a 10-13 ohm solenoid! Its the only thing it can be. Thanks for your info DD. Youre definatly one of the most patient people Ive met lol! Ill let you know what comes of it.
 

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You should be able to measure it from the harness, and not have to drop the pan unnecessarily.

Although, it sounds like you have to... :(
 
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