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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Have you tried shifting the engine slightly using what slack there might be in the motor mounts? I was able to move mine at least 1/8" to the right by loosening the lower bracket mount bolts, then used a pry-bar to push the engine over. It wasn't a lot of movement but it was noticeable, and enough for me to be able to get my #5 primary to stop rubbing into the inside of the engine bay.
I'd like some additional information on that. What part allowed movement? I'm grasping for staws and trying to get this stupid primary tube off of the steering shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Could shim the K down and the engine up from that. Would 1/4 shim plates maybe do it?
I was considering that as well. Shouldn't have to but it could be an option.
 

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1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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Have you tried shifting the engine slightly using what slack there might be in the motor mounts? I was able to move mine at least 1/8" to the right by loosening the lower bracket mount bolts, then used a pry-bar to push the engine over. It wasn't a lot of movement but it was noticeable, and enough for me to be able to get my #5 primary to stop rubbing into the inside of the engine bay.
Chris and I are discussing trying to do that along with nudging the subframe around a bit. We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
I may also install offset rack bushings as well. I'm literally trying everything I can before the hammer comes out.
 

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97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
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I'd like some additional information on that. What part allowed movement? I'm grasping for staws and trying to get this stupid primary tube off of the steering shaft.
I just loosened the single bolt that goes through the bottom of the motor mount bracket into the K-member on each side of the engine a couple turns, then shoved the engine over with a 1/2" breaker bar between the K-member and one of the bosses on the block. Tightened everything back up once I was satisfied of the position - no signs (so far) that it's shifted back to where it was.

It seemed like the holes in the mount points for for the motor mount brackets on the K-member are oblong and allow for some left/right movement?
 

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I just loosened the single bolt that goes through the bottom of the motor mount bracket into the K-member on each side of the engine a couple turns, then shoved the engine over with a 1/2" breaker bar between the K-member and one of the bosses on the block. Tightened everything back up once I was satisfied of the position - no signs (so far) that it's shifted back to where it was.

It seemed like the holes in the mount points for for the motor mount brackets on the K-member are oblong and allow for some left/right movement?
On the SC, you will also have to loosen the bolt going down into the K-member from above on the driver’s side. Even if you can’t get enough movement from the mounts, drilling the holes a little bigger would be easier than moving the subframe and replacing the rack bushings with offset ones, which would also require readjusting the wheel alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
On the SC, you will also have to loosen the bolt going down into the K-member from above on the driver’s side. Even if you can’t get enough movement from the mounts, drilling the holes a little bigger would be easier than moving the subframe and replacing the rack bushings with offset ones, which would also require readjusting the wheel alignment.
Just worth noting since the k member came down the alignment is off already. I'm trying to resolve this issue before having it realigned. I appreciate your advise we may have to explore that as well. I understand the quick way to address this is to clearance the primary tube but I really don't want to do that on a set of expensive headers.
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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The K member holes aren’t oblonged, the lower bracket has a guide pin that’s a pretty precise fit to the hole in the K member, I don’t know how pushing the engine to the side would have much of an effect, there’s maybe 1/16-1/8” wiggle room at best.



Looking close at this pic also makes me wary if using offset rack bushings to shift the rack further to the driver side, that might run the high pressure elbow right into the K member

I understand the hesitation to bash the primaries based on their price tag but they’re more valuable if they fit the car, it’s not unheard of to do it from cheap to premium quality. I’d be hesitant to hammer on them if it were some weird uncharted engine swap I was trying to force them to work with, but being designed for the SC, they should work without modifying the car itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
I looked at my spare k-member and rack on the ground from my 97 in my garage and there is definitely room to move the rack with clearance for the lines. The 93 is still parked while I make my decisions on what to do for clearances. It's borderline undriveable in it's current state.
 

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Just gotta say it.


A quick wack with a 4lb will make enough clearance, and itll be done in an hour at most. No moving engines or steering racks, which also will mess with steering geometry/driveline angle.
I understand the hesitation to not wanting to hurt your new headers, but its not like you have to give them back to someone. And it doesnt hurt power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
Started back in on it today and it turned into a toaster in the bath type of situation. Back to waiting on more parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·








So the good news is the rack bushings will solve the header clearance issues, Supergordo will be assisting with the subframe clearance assessments as well. The bad news is in an attempt to remove severely corroded bushings, I managed to completely shatter one of the mounting ears off of the steering race. A replacement powersteering rack will be needed and since I have a bit of a leak and don't trust the nearly 30 year old supporting components I'll be replacing everything else as well. Pictured are all 3 hoses, both rack fittings, and a case of royal purple max ez powersteering fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Hopefully I'll be back on the road with this one soon.
 
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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Yeah it went off to the alignment shop today. Big surprise they don't listen and it's going back tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
What did they do wrong?
Adjusted the caster again to match side to side :rolleyes: apparently they don't agree with a high cross caster split, so now it pulls right. I've discussed it with the service manager and they will adjust it back to how it was previously (heavy split) in the morning. Also the steering wheel is about 5 degrees off still. The mechanic thought that was good enough. Still plenty of adjustment left. He just wanted to go home early on Friday. (Not an assumption, it's what his boss told me).
 
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