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Ok, I just fell into about $2100 so since my trannsmission is on the way out....I need a new one.....


Some of the features of the A O Dominator are, a two inch wide Raybestos Pro Series Kevlar overdrive band, mechanical diode with Spiral "Plus" Ring Kit instead of the stock roller clutch that is prevalent to breakage and a high performance Superior Posi Shift Pac. This transmission has a 4R70W wide ratio gear set, 2.84 ratio first gear (15% lower than an AOD or AODE), 1.55 ratio second gear (5% lower than an AOD or AODE), non-lock-up torque converter, extra hard intermediate shaft (a must for high horse power motors), Superior "A+" overdrive billet servo for added holding power and 8 clutches in the direct clutch drum (Alto Red Eagle Power Pack). This is 33% more than a stock 4R70W transmission, and the list goes on and on.
If I gave a local race transmission shop these specs........is there anything I should leave out or add?

Also what stall speed do you guys/girls recommend? This car is my daily driver, but I like to drive it..if you know what I mean. I plan on getting this tranny ASAP so I need your help.


Thanks in advance!!!
 

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FordFanatic said:
there is a group purchase on transmissions going on right now.
Well there is but it wont work in his car. I would suggest pm'ing dirtyd0g or darrin and asking
for their input. They have the answers and are very helpful even to us folks with old transmissions!

What i can tell you is that the wide ration gearset is a good move (my gears are sitting in the garage
waiting to go in) and the A+ O/D servo is also a step up.
 

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These transmission have a wide array of options depending on what you are wanting from it. My reccomendations always vary. 2100 may or may not be enough to do that job depending on who you know and what you decide to do with it. It's easier to just buy a valvebody than to put a shift kit in one of those. As always I suggest lentech. The converter recommendation will depend on how you decide to set everything up with the tranny (one piece input shaft,direct drive,etc....) The only way I'm messing with it is of the car is here. Aod's are just alot of trouble and way to hard to get right, including installing properly. The last one I did came back out of the car several times, that just what it took to make it right.
Alan
 

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Aod's are just alot of trouble and way to hard to get right, including installing properly. The last one I did came back out of the car several times, that just what it took to make it right.
Alan
What do you mean by this.......hard to install.....not any harder than 4R? Just curious there Alan.....

I set my AOD up to the exact specs as the Dominator mentioned above, since i purchased the KIT - I thought it was priced right.

As any tranny guy could say, it isn't the parts inside the machine, it the man that was inside the machine before/durring/after the parts got there. Anyone can build an AOD to the specs mentioned above, but that doesn't make them good or bad.

I reccomend the kit/tranny above - I hate the SUperior shift kit though. See if you can order the tranny without a VB and install a modded one from Lentech.
 

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SilverFox said:
What do you mean by this.......hard to install.....not any harder than 4R? Just curious there Alan.....

I set my AOD up to the exact specs as the Dominator mentioned above, since i purchased the KIT - I thought it was priced right.

As any tranny guy could say, it isn't the parts inside the machine, it the man that was inside the machine before/durring/after the parts got there. Anyone can build an AOD to the specs mentioned above, but that doesn't make them good or bad.

I reccomend the kit/tranny above - I hate the SUperior shift kit though. See if you can order the tranny without a VB and install a modded one from Lentech.

Did you put 4r gears in it on a motor making about 450ftlbs?
 

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Oh.....sorry, no i didn't for this tranny. But I have done the 4R gears for a guy running 400+.

I don't accualy reccomend an AOD above 400 though, might as well upgrade to the 4R and TCS. That would run you LESS than buying that AOD.

I think anything over $2000 is too much for an AOD, you might as well upgrade once you get over $1500 IMHO.

You cought me Alan...keeping me on my toes I see.
So what did you mean above anyhow?
 

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So far I have been happy with my PATC stall, 2800 is just about PERFECT for the 5.0.

As far as you bringing it in for those "specs" - are you having a tranny built just like that, or are you buying thier tranny off the internet?

Just a hint - I built my tranny to those specs (no 4R gears) with 90+ internals, Buemann SHift kit, PATC stall for around $1000 at the most - though I did it myself of course.
 

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Yes, the guy i did it for used a FULL manual VB, so shift points were HIS OWN really.

How would 4R gears affect the shift points? The gov would still do it's job - you would just need a smaller or higher gov?

I know the gearset would be better with 3.73s maybe higher - but 4.10 would be too low.
 

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SilverFox said:
Yes, the guy i did it for used a FULL manual VB, so shift points were HIS OWN really.

How would 4R gears affect the shift points? The gov would still do it's job - you would just need a smaller or higher gov?

I know the gearset would be better with 3.73s maybe higher - but 4.10 would be too low.
The shift points become way too high, not only do you need the lower stall governor but valvebody modifications may be required as well. Especially if you are using a stock style converter.
Alan
 

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My stock 4500 rpm shifts were like 5500 and 4900. 2nd was late and 3rd was early. That was with the low speed governor. I've backed off the tv pressure to give a 5100 rpm 1-2 shift.

When I get the Lentech installed hopefully I can raise the tv pressure. I was thinking of reverse engineering the vb till I found Dan Newman could hook me up with a stage3 street terminator vb for a mere $265 vs $399 direct from Len. My only holdup is finding the little 1/8 pipe threaded electrical connector. Where other than Lentech can I get one of these?
 

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just order one from Len I guess. If you have seen one before, you might make one like it. It is only a pipe reducer with a wire and some epoxy filled into it.

Alan, I did the 4R gears for that guy and he had done all the research that said he would need a full manual VB - so I built it anyway. I knew the shift points would be funky due to the gov and gearset after we talked about it.

VB mods, that is intresting......you are correct that the pressures/shift points would make it shift all kinds of wierd. It would take alot of trial and error to get one right I would assume.

"Icantdirve" what VB mods did you have previous to the LENTECH? Curious...

Maybe someone ought to develop a STANDARD VB MOD as a base to start from when useing the gear set.....I know I would like to, but don't have the time.
 

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I used a Superior-AOD-HP kit. Cheap and very simple to install but effective. It was installed in a brand new valve body. The valve body was $50 sealed in a Ford box. If you ever need a brand new valve body they have two left. I might save mine for the next aod that comes in..which will probably be never! Seems like all that blows up these days are 4l60e's and ricers.

I did the epoxy mod to my original vb and streched the 2-3 and 3-4 shift springs a tad. Then I decided it would be too much trouble to experiment like that.

Thanks for the idea of just making a case connector. I will use a brass fitting and a bolt with some epoxy.
 

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HAHAH....4L60E......
I am rebuilding one right now, or fixing - 1996 4x4.

The 3/4 clutch PISTON seals were wasted, cocked the piston sidways, leaking like bastard. Previous the owner grabbed a rock real hard into the pan and BROKE the 3/4 shift selinoid and drove for SEVERAL miles/months with no 3/4. The piston and bottom of the drum were caked with crud I guess due to none use and accumulated crap. After they fixed the selinoid, they lost 3/4 a few months later. I did the air check at 100psi, and it still wouldn't move the 3/4 piston. ....... but one good thing, the cltuches are still like new :thumb:

Grabed a new molded piston yesterday and the gaskets.

So......what mods do you do the 4L60E before you are done? Just curious, this is my first 4L60E, but have done 700R's before.
I hear removing the input shaft ball bearing / TC Clutch check ball is good.

The Spacer plate has the checkball "LODGED" into the hole, I have seen pics of this damage before. I am going to beat the ball out and hammer the hole back to straight. Have you seen this before?

ANything else I should check while I have it apart.



Oh...and what is the epoxy mod - do you mean the 1-2-3OD "lentech mod"
 
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