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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok.
new owner of a 1990 supercoupe and not hear to complain or gripe. long story short?
am going for the head gaskets this weekend. old school mechanic so i could tell what i was getting into to do this.
my question is about manuals for these cars?
i am not a fan of haynes and used to love the old chiltons but haynes owns chiltons now and have tried to find a ford shop manual since my son is a ford mechanic now but they dont have anything that old?
the stuff on the computer for ford shop manuals are either buy a book and hope you get the right one you need or download from emanuel or several others.
my auto parts stores caint even get a haynes manual they can only sell me a link to download?
i aint scared of it and can/will do the work. just really want torque specs for install.
i know that a haynes manual has all that in there in a chart but if anyone has an an all inclusive manual and where to get my own would save me the run around
newbie thanks for advice

maybe i should have said the 3.8 supercharged if anything else was installed in the supercoupe in 90?
 

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Shop manuals, or Bibles, are very rare. Youll have to keep an eye out on ebay, our for sale page, our facebooks sale page, and SCCoA.

In the mean time:


BoltTighten in (4) steps:
Step 1.-
Tighten bolts in sequence shown to: 50 Nm (37 lb-ft) 60 Nm (45 lb-ft) 70 Nm (52 lb-ft) 80 Nm (59 lb-ft)

Step 2.
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a) Back off all bolts one at a time 2-3 revolutions and retighten in numerical sequence as follows:
Step 3.-
b) Tighten long and short bolts in sequence to 65-75 Nm (48 lb-ft).

Step 4.-
c) Rotate long and short bolts in sequence an additional 90-110 degrees
38842

Here is the bolt sequence if needed.


I recommend using ARP studs instead of bolts. The extra clamping force they are capable of doesnt let head lift. They like to do that.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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And really you can be pretty loose on model year, a given year service manual from 89-97 will cover the vast majority of specs you need, 89-95 will narrow down the SC specific tech you need, and 89-93 will cover body/interior related info you need(which you really don’t need a manual for). These cars didn’t really change that much over their runs where it counts.
 

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My advice to anyone who is going to be wrenching on a car, is get Alldata. You can buy access to Alldata for one particular vehicle for 5 years for like $50, and you’ll have ready access to torque specs, wiring diagrams, repair procedures, TSB’s, etc.
 
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Hey make sure you buy the head studs for a 2.8 Chevy V6, I forgot what years it was but I think it was around 1998-2000. They work the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i appreciate the info everyone. thank you
been wrenching all day and ready to pull heads off in the morning.
the one that kicked my but and still have one stud that is being a pain is the fuel rail bracket backed up to the firewall on the drivers side.
not complaining but if yall have worked on these then you know the struggles from factory to actually be able to work on them.
for my last post KEVIN8989.
why chevy studs and not ARP or OEM?
i know i bought OEM studs not gaskets because i am not planning on doing any crazy mods to this to give it to a youngish son who already gets speeding tickets in a 4cyl. kia.
now that mine is apart i dontget my son on his see how studs on the four bottoms would play well with the exhaust manifold and on the inside it would be taking up un needed space.
are the studs just better material than OEM? i dont need this to be a performance car i just need it to be a reliable vehicle to get my son back on his feet and keep his job.
right now he is driving my 77 f150 supercab that gets about 7 mpg and works 25min away
 

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The factory head bolts are torque to yield, which basically means they are one time use. Since you have to buy new ones anyway, might as well spend a little more to get studs, which apply the clamping force more evenly. The reason they said get Chevy 2.8 ones is because for some reason, the ARP studs for the Chevy 2.8 fit our motors better than the ARP studs for the Ford 3.8.
 
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Step 2.
-
a) Back off all bolts one at a time 2-3 revolutions and retighten in numerical sequence as follows:
Step 3.-
b) Tighten long and short bolts in sequence to 65-75 Nm (48 lb-ft).

Step 4.-
c) Rotate long and short bolts in sequence an additional 90-110 degrees
The above information is for the 3.8 NA engine.

The SC is this ..

b) Tighten long and short bolts in sequence to 50-60 Nm (37-44 lb-ft).
c) Rotate an additional 180-200 degrees.
 

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ok.
new owner of a 1990 supercoupe and not hear to complain or gripe. long story short?
am going for the head gaskets this weekend. old school mechanic so i could tell what i was getting into to do this.
my question is about manuals for these cars?
Should be able to easily find the 4" thick factory shop manual, dead tree version, on eBay, not too expensive. Example:
1990 MERCURY COUGAR FORD THUNDERBIRD ORIGINAL FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL SHOP
- $18

Alternatively, you can buy the same manual on CD, also via eBay.

SCCOA has several threads on the job, not fun the first time, piece of cake next time around ;)

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks
already have the heads and stuff back on.
thanks to the members here.
weather this week is the only reason all the other stuff is not back together and not on the road yet.
is it a piece of cake the second time around because you didnt put all the extra crazy hard to get to bolts back in or because you know where/what needs to be done the second time?
supposed to be a funny question?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks for the advice and help from the members here.
i have it back together and running good knowing i have an ignition switch/commutator relay or whatever relay starting issue and already have that one figured out and the new one in hand.
my son is bringing his t27 security bit over tomorrow for that one.
just a little update. thanks for the advice and help.
NOW the question?
where does the RPM/TACH read from?
a crank sensor?
at the flywheel?
off of the altenator?
mine is in and out and because of my work i have the tools to read RPM for belt driven blowers but i would like the guage in the car to read?
it is in and out?
starting to guess at flywheel readings and my cars rear main seal leaking is messing with it cause it will read fine and just drop away and a few minutes later start rising again.
any advice on location or opinions on whats going on is grateful/helpful
thanks to all
 

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RPM or TACH is derived from the EDIS; the EDIS computes it from the cam signal; the cam signal is in the front. This becomes more obvious if you trace it through the EVTM.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for your response.
dont want to be a pain just learning what i have.
i posted in general discussion for this issue but know response. and anyone can tell me i am being stupid or dont know what i have and thats fine because i am just learning this car and just asking advice and nobody will hurt my feelings.
after head gaskets i got the car back together and running down the road. no power steering?
i didnt pull the pump disconnect the lines or anything?
i drop the entire bracket with everything mounted.and put it back that way.
ordered a pump from the parts store and pulled mine last weekend for a core and they had one that was just a line connection but have learned since then that i have a pump with a variable assist evo valve.
but i do think my problem is in that valve or the wiring for that valve.
sorry for the long post.
no power steering i put fluid in it and it didnt take much to over full. it spit the mess everywhere so i thought collapsed line and if i had to get to that it was getting a new pump and all but i had never heard of an EVO valve?
when i got to it the wiring connector was off?
took it to the parts store as a core and they had the wrong one with line size connection and it would take them a week to get the correct one according to pictures with the EOV port but without the EOV.
i put mine back together with the wire connected this time and still no power steering and the parts store has know clue of the EOV valve.
like i said sorry for the long post .
the real question i have.
can i use the pump with the direct line connection or does thiis cars steering system need the EOV.
any comment good or bad is appreciated
 

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The EVO only restricts the power steering fluid to keep it from getting too "light" at speed; it opens fully at idle to give you full power steering. If it's plugged, you won't have any power steering.

I'd disconnect the wire in case the signal is locking out power steering first.

Yes, you can use a non-EVO setup; I THINK you'll have to change the pressure hose out, which means you get to learn a few more words of profanity in different languages when you discover that Ford hung the rack in the air, and built the car around it ... :devilish:o_O:poop: 18mm open end shorty wrench will be required. It won't hurt if you have a couple of extra joints in your arm to reach around the motor.

(Side note: If ever pulling the motor, I'd do the hoses THEN so they're new and fresh, with fresh seals. Thus speaks experience. Oh, and the motor mounts are a LOT easier to get to on the driver's side with the rack out. Yes, I know those are contradictory. Just observations I've made with our 1991 Cougar.)

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks
i got this and promise i wont share the explitives on here.
my neighbors might hear them but then again i have lived here for awhile so they know me and have heard a few.
thank you.
i had that dream last night about ford putting the motor in because of the mount access without any of the rack in?
the only shorty wrench i have left is a 3/4 dangit. time to find or make one.
thanks for the advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
sorry i am just getting back.
the tropical storm was no issue here but the next day we had a thunderstorm from hell that fried my surge protector,router and so on and just got things back last nite.
have the new PS pump in and the problem now is the high pressure line connection.
i know about the plastic washer in the EVO valve on both connections.
the one sent with the new pump for line connection leaks. the dorman washer leaks and i have two dropped in now and it leaks worse with two than it did with one.
are the dorman gaskets not correct.
whether double or single plastic crush washer i can still move the line by finger while its running and leaking?
dub thanks for all of your help. my youngest son has that phone now. but will still get your response eventually. thank you.
lost alot of electronics including surge protecters and house outlets in the thunderstorm after the tropical storm and just getting things back together.
no more excuses from me.
why cant i get my high pressure line fitting to seal with new teflon/plastic crush washers even two of them know.?
wrong ones?
advice appreciated
thanks to all
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
same EVO, same high pressure line,old plastic washer came out with the threads but wasnt leaking??
new pump and the EVO to pump isnt leaking yet.
the line connection to the EVO leaks when motor turned by hand and pours when running.
i know the evo is open whether failed open or working at this point and because of where its leaking on the connection i know that thread tape isnt the answer and i know its tight .
one crush washer it leaks two crush washers it foams out with both situations at the line through the nut
dont want to pull the pump again but i have an idea to fix it
just dont want to go there yet?
what is the correct plastic crush washer for this? my local stores cant even reference the EVO they all want me to give them a ford number for reference
 
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