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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all. Glad to find this site. Hope you all enjoy the new format. A motorcycle site I frequent just moved over to the vBulletin format and while it took a week or so to get used to it, I really like it now.

I have owned a '90 Cougar LS for 5+ years now and it has been one of the best cars I have owned. Good looking, nice ride and until lately, low-maintenance. It has the 100,000 mile blues though. In the past year I had to rebuild the trans, replace rear coil springs, all four shocks, tires, some other suspension parts and actually had a front rotor break in 2 - that was a first for me. Still have a few smaller problems, but nothing life-threatening though. Oh yeah, the mid-western rust has taken hold.

Here is my EEC question. Lately my fuel computer LED has been displaying FFS when I start the car. Coincidentally, the car has become a little harder to start. Anyway I do not have one of those ECC code checker thingys, but was told that if I cross the gray connector with the #2 black connector at the EEC Test DLC with a wire, I should be able to get the EEC code from the check engine light. Has anyone done this? I am willing to give it a try, but am a little concerned that I may damage something if I have not correctly identified the #2 black connector. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also John Johnson, thanks for the article on the Yellow Headlight Restoration. It's worth trying because I have been quoted $110 per lense here in town.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Craig

Appreciate the post.

FWIW, I did find the EEC-IV codes here on this site. Here's the link.

http://tccoa.com/articles/misc/index.html#

Let me clarify my original question a little.

Since I am too cheap to buy one of those code reader thingy's, I am trying to take the shade tree approach by figuring out the code in my driveway with a piece of wire. Must be the farmer background in me.

My question has to do with identifying the #2 black connector in the EEC Test DLC. I don't see any numbers stamped on the housing so I don't want to cross over the incorrect black connector to the gray connector.

If someone can describe to me how to exactly identify the #2 black connector, I would greatly appreciate it.

Scott
 
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