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Discussion Starter #1
so my friend has the remains of a wet kit for a 5.0 mustang, all he has left of it is the solenoids, the lines, the purge valve, the remote turn-on valve, and an "arm" switch. he only wants 100 bucks for it, so i think i'm gonna get it. but i guess my question is what all do i still need to get for it to work on my car? i know i'll have to get the bottle, and i'll proally have to pic up new jets for it, cause he was sprayin a 150 shot anyway, so yea, what else do i need? and with a wet kit where do u need to spray at? i'm hopein to keep the additional expenses of the kit under 300, i'm lookin to spray a 75-100 shot. thanks

-j
 

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What brand is the kit? I would just look online for that brand and find their installation directions. With a wet kit, make sure you spray over 3000RPMs otherwise you might be picking up pieces of your intake. And you will want to put the nozzle in the intake tube before the Throttle body.

BTW - Where in IL do you live at?
 

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BlackTbird96 said:
With a wet kit, make sure you spray over 3000RPMs otherwise you might be picking up pieces of your intake.
I know nothing about that!



:eek: :eek:
 

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Yea, the window switch would have been nice to have when that happened.

MSD is now making a window switch for cars with DIS (ours) YAAY!!!

I will be purchasing it when it's available through summit (nov. 17th)

Should help, not only with keeping the system from blowing my intake apart again, but with the consistency of the system.
 

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Have you heard anything about the progessive controller that NX sells?

And didn't MSD always make a window switch for us? Some people have them. Unless its something special just for DIS cars.
 

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I really havent looked at NX's progressive controller to be honest.

MSD has offered a window switch for a long time, but to use it with DIS, you had to buy tach drivers to get it to work, the new one is made with the tach driver in the unit (I do believe, from what is on MSD's website) so the extra part isn't needed. and the DIS unit costs less than the standard one, plus not having to buy extra adapters = YAAAY!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
its a nos kit, for a 5.0, wet kit, he doesn't know the model... and since my birds a 4.6 anyway, i'm gonna be kinda make shifting my own kit, using the givin solenoids, purge valve, gauges, etc. so yea, i'm modifyin this 5.0 kit for my 4.6, what do i need? i also cant find the specs for the jets i need... i want to spray a 75 shot... also, what kind of nossle should i use? they have those sportsman foggers... but can u just use one? i got the impression those are for building your own direct injection setup. thanks

-j

o, and i live down in champaign :)
 

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If you have all the lines, then about the only thing you will need is the fitting that screws into the fuel rail. Its a 1/16" NTP thread fitting. You can order one from NOS or NX i bet. Or, make your own thing like I did.

http://members.tccoa.com/blacktbird96/FPG.jpg

Its an Autometer fitting in the fuel rail, into a 90* elbow, then a "T" fitting for the guage, then the 1/8" to -4AN fitting. Works well and then you will know your fuel pressure too without removing the nitrous fittings.
 

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that fitting is a pita to find, compucar also sells it. my kit is for a 5.0 and it works well on mysetup, i had to make a bracket for the selenoids to sit on behind the intake but it works. the purge goes right through the cowl and no other big issues. im looking into getting a different set of jets because i dont like the way the compucar Y jet fits into the intake, theres nothign really holding it in there. Im going to look into the skiny kid racing Billy Glidden jets.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
what about the actual sprayer/injector/fogger thing, will a nos sportsman fogger work ok?

thanks for all the help guys

-j
 

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BlackTbird96 said:

Its an Autometer fitting in the fuel rail, into a 90* elbow, then a "T" fitting for the guage, then the 1/8" to -4AN fitting. Works well and then you will know your fuel pressure too without removing the nitrous fittings.

I like that alot, hope you won't get mad when I copy that idea myself, I was wondering how to monitor the fuel pressure without removing the lines.
 

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JoelBender said:
I like that alot, hope you won't get mad when I copy that idea myself, I was wondering how to monitor the fuel pressure without removing the lines.
Yea I dont mind. I figured alot of people would start coping it ;) Just a cheap autometer 1-1/2" guage and a few fittings. I got them all from McMasterCarr.com
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok, so i went ahead and picked up the kit, it didn't have the gauges as promised, so he sold it all to me for 75, so i figure even if i cant use the kit, the purge valve alone almost justifies that cost. so anyway, on the nossle there are two jets, one has a 37 on it, the other a 26... if u look at the pic below you'll see what i'm sayin. its not a great pic.. but you get the idea, do you think i can use this nossle at least? or will i need to get all new to spray? i also have a fuel cut-off switch, that the guy new nothing about it, its marked with the numbers s76575 4 9645 and it says horrs corp on the top, any ideas what pressure it kicks in at? and how do i go about wiring that into the configuration? there are pics of those two at the bottem.. thanks

-j



 

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The nossle you have a picture of will work, but............

So long as you've got the solenoids, lines, switches, I'd just go buy a new nossle and get a new set of pills with a "spec" sheet that tells you what fuel jet to run with what nitrous jet.


BTW The fitting that goes into the fuel rail is called a schrader valve.
 

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That looks like a Hobbs switch. I don't know where it would hook to a t-bird/cougar motor, but on my GTP I have mine hooked to a boost line (same place I'd tie in a boost gauge). It closes the circut when you reach a certain ammount of boost and sprays the giggle gas, at least that's how it works in my car.

Oh, and don't buy a bottle from NOS or NX, they're way over priced go to this web site and get you bottle there. http://www.apisureshot.com/order.htm. You can get a 10 lbs bottle for $85 and a 20 lbs bottle for $110. I don't remember the other costs for the or the 15 lbs bottle, but they're between those somewhere. Mine will be in the mail shortly. If you don't go thrugh them still be sure to get an aluminum bottle. I had a 10lbs steel bottle and I couldn't keep it hot enough to keep the bottle pressure above 700 psi, even with a zex heater. My buddy has an Al bottle and, on the same day I couldn't get mine over 600psi, had a bag of ice on his to lower the pressure instead of fighting to raise it like I was. You want to be at about 900-1000 to get the most out of it. At 600 or so you're really only seeing about 1/2 of you shot.

If you have the solonoids, line, nozzles and switch you're really only lacking a bottle. I don't know what's involved in a purge kit, but you said that's all there. You will need a pressure gauge to go with the bottle, but I wouldn't buy one from a n2o company. I got mine with the "T" fitting for $16 from a place that sells co2 tank supplies. Pressure is the same no matter what is pushing it, so any gauge that goes up to 2-3000 psi will be just fine (you should never see pressure that high though).

I wouldn't know where to go about installing the nozzle on a 4.6. I would assume at the TB though. I have to spray after my TB, straight into my blower through a TB spacer on my GTP cause the MAF is part of the TB. I think you can spray at the end of your intake tube right before the TB unless I'm forgetting something about that motor.
 
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