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Discussion Starter · #523 ·
Would it be possible to mount all that stuff under the console in where the storage cubby is, and just have the handle coming out where the original e-brake came out?
It can, but then its too far back for me to comfortably use it. Its not pretty but I have the best range of motion I can get, its quick to reach, and the seat doesnt dig into my shoulder pulling it.
 

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1991 Mercury Cougar LS 5.0 in restoration
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How about turning the valve 180° so the hoses are under the console? I think I'd hit them all the time
 

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Discussion Starter · #528 ·
I'd change the oil out at least once a year if it's not driven very much each year.
That means I woulda changed out oil and filters a few times that even had NO miles on it.


Im very adamant about changing oil in cars Im driving. Every 3k miles.


If its sitting, literally not doing anything, and its not safe to drive, sorry. I dont see the point.
 

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That's the sad part!

For us here in California (or the sun belt, really), we'd call that rusted out. People would genuinely get rid of their cars because of that here in California.
 

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Discussion Starter · #535 ·
That's the sad part!

For us here in California (or the sun belt, really), we'd call that rusted out. People would genuinely get rid of their cars because of that here in California.
I have chosen not to make a statement based on my personal opinions.



Even CA cars have surface rust on the diff and half shafts, they’re bare cast iron, unpainted from the factory.

View attachment 49416

It would take a very long time to actually truly rust out a cast iron pumpkin,
This pumpkin was actually pretty rusted, its noticably smaller than most on the top and around the ears after I hammered all the scale off. That and it being a 3.27 open is why I didnt feel bad about welding the spider gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #539 ·
A LOT has happened to get the red car good for todays/tomorrows drift event so this may be a long one.

Lets start with the issues we found after the first event.
*need more steering angle
*need to figure out why my steering isnt smooth from lock to lock
*need a working handbrake.

Steering angle was solved by swapping the 89-90 steering limiter/arm side strut rod nuts for some normal flange nuts off a newer car.


Didnt get me much but I had noticed my 96 had more steering angle than my 90, so they are atleast now equal. And that little bit more has helped TREMENDOUSLY.

My steering from lock to lock wasnt smooth because I installed the LTs lower than they had been previously. That cause the runner for cylinder 6 to rub against the steering shaft. They was solved with a 4lb hammer and a 2 foot punch.

Lastly, the hand brake. Finally went to a hydraulic handbrake, but due to my lack of 6061 aluminum and a mill, I went with an inline set up. Had multiple issues with the first one, from it it back feeding pressure to the main booster, to leaking, and to just not working.


Installed a Wilwood .62 master for the same handbrake frame and it wasnt able to lock the 255s, but my 225s it can. And frankly the car feels great on a good set of 225s. Looks great imo too.


Obviously Im still new at this so I spun out a couple times. Tore my Ramaco strut rod bushings, and @MadMikeyL came in for the save by bringing me back TWO sets of strut rod bushings, the Ultra Power ones hes found with solid machined sleeves.


These are my busted Ramacos.
You can see, it was a good thing I welded my split sleeves. They crushed a bit, and I believe they were what kept me able to get it into the pits under my own power.


I was able to get the car fixed in time to do another 2 runs. Ill essentially be torture testing these bushing all day tomorrow. Will report back if they live. Car feels better, thats for sure.
 
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