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just took my car to get the AC looked at and they quoted me 1200 bucks! to fix it 300 for the part and 600 for labour! so i guess no more AC anymore i can deal with the windows down, but im just wandering how much hp ill gain if i disconnect the AC? probably only be a couple but the more the better
 

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I fired up my AC today for the first time this year and it doesn't seem to be as cold as it was last year.

Oh well at least it works enough to get by for this summer (unless it bombs out ahead of time!)

Jake
 

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1200 bucks, not really worth it, unless you really want to keep your cold air, id want it in this summer heat thats been coming around, but mines broken i just havent messed with it at all
 

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What part of an A/C system would cost $600 labor to repair? :2huh:

OK, maybe if the evaporator needs replacing, but everything else is just hoses, a compressor, condenser and some other misc. parts all in the engine compartment. IMHO, there should be nothing that requires 8 - 10 hours of labor. :eek:

Does CA have a huge price on the recovery/recycling of the R134?

I'm just wondering.

Oh, and you shouldn't gain any HP at WOT. The A/C compressor should cut off when you're at WOT. :thumbsup:
 

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Your AC compressor should come on every time you turn the control to "Defrost". It uses the "dry", warm air to help clear the windshield faster.

At least other Fords used to do that, I haven't physically checked my 94. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yep its the evaporator that needs to be replaced, they said they have to take the whole dash off, i can live without AC, especially considering my car before this was a pontiac 6000
both window motors were shot on the one side and the AC was busted, id being pouring buckets every time i had to drive in the summer it sucked but refused to put money into that car, when i was saving up for my cougar
 

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94 Daily Driven 4.6L said:
Your AC compressor should come on every time you turn the control to "Defrost". It uses the "dry", warm air to help clear the windshield faster.

At least other Fords used to do that, I haven't physically checked my 94. :thumbsup:


you are correct sir...
 

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Ouch...the evaporator core replacement does involve removing the instrument panel (dashboard). The prices you quote are in CAN$, correct? CAN$600 for labor may be ok, but the part is way overpriced (to me, anyway...check websites for lower prices).

Quick searches of the US-based sites, such as www.autozone.com and www.advanceautoparts.com indicate aftermarket evaporator prices under $120US. Also, they list an evaporator repair kit for less than $40US. I'd make sure that the quote you received was not for a kit being charged as a full evaporator. Do you have Carquest stores nearby?

www.rockauto.com doesn't appear to list heating/air conditioning parts for the 1994 T-bird. Ford's list price of the evaporator is about $260-275US....depending on if you get just the core, or the entire assembly, and whether you have the SATC or manual control.

Just a thought: do you know of any shops that'll install parts you supply? That'll help in lowering the overall price of the repair....
 

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I got a similar quote several years ago and thats when I bought the haynes manual and did the swap myself. The heatercore article I wrote will give you the step by step instructions to remove the dash if you want to tackle it. If you decide to do it make sure to buy a dryer as well as the exaperator core then just pay $50 to get the system vacuumed and recharged. Parts should be about $200
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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my ac is not that cold and can it is at the orrect pressure. can i just release all the old one and put new gas in?
 

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chuacw said:
.... can i just release all the old one and put new gas in?
I'd suggest having it evacuated at a shop because proper evacuating creates/ensures the system holds a vacuum. With that in mind, it stands to reason that if the system is open and uncharged, when it gets recharged, the pressure inside the system will reach the correct level before the proper amount of refrigerant is in the system. Why? Because inside there's air in the system, rather than a vacuum (my 2¢ worth).

From the 1994 Service Manual:

System Evacuating

1. Connect manifold gauge set as outlined, if not yet connected.
2. Leak test the system as outlined.
3. Remove the refrigerant from the system as outlined.
4. Ensure both manifold gauge valves are turned all the way to the right (closed).
5. Ensure the center hose connection at the manifold gauge is tight.
6. Connect manifold gauge set center hose to a vacuum pump.
7. Open manifold gauge set valves counterclockwise and start the vacuum pump.
8. Evacuate the system with the vacuum pump until low-pressure gauge reads at least 99.4 kPa (29.5 in-Hg) (vacuum) and as close to 101.1 kPa (30 in-Hg) as possible. Continue to operate the vacuum pump for 30 minutes.
9. When evacuation of system is complete, close manifold gauge set valves and turn the vacuum pump off.
10. Observe low-pressure gauge for five minutes to ensure system vacuum is held. If vacuum is held, charge the system. If vacuum is not held for five minutes, leak test the system, service the leaks and evacuate the system again.
 

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From what I've researched about A/C systems (home and mobile) is that the purpose for pulling a vacuum is to remove as much moisture as possible from the system. Moisture evaporates at low pressures and is then pumped out.

Moisture in an A/C system is not good. :eek:

I think I read somewhere that the longer you pull a vacuum on a system, the better it is, and the longer it will last. (Assuming no leaks). I’ve even been told to pull the vacuum for 24 hours (but that was on a large home A/C system).

Just what I’ve learned over the years but I am definitely not an expert. :thumbsup:
 

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you can just hook gauges to the 134 system and let it go, if you dont have equipment , once you do the repair , just pay someone to charge it. (if the things leaking that badly ,there is probally no freon in it anyway)
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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wow....learn something new everyday....
that's why shop charges so much for ac works....
 

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How difficult is it to replace the compressor. Mine craped out last fall. It was bad enough replacing the idler pulley. Is there an easy way to do this? Is it as bad as it looks?
 

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it doesnt seem, terrbible bad from me looking at it, but im sure as with any involved job like that the compressor would be rather hard to do, hey looking for a working compressor i got one!
 

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just remove it and get a shorter belt!! I would never pay the outrageous prices for fixing AC. I would byte the bullet and hope that the dropped weight and less drag on the engine would at least make a noticable difference!

I don't know.... would it??

jake
 
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