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Discussion Starter #1
It all started with the check engine light. After changing the EGR valve, having the cat's checked and new O2 sensors, I took the car to PEP Boys for a general tune up. They did plugs, wires, coil, coil wire, cleaning the injector throttle body but still had no engine power at low rev's. Checked vacuum, found that vacuum went away when giving it the gas. When rpm's get to 1500 to 2000 the car will run fine. They worked on it a week and honestly when i got it back it was worse, as well as my wallet [650.00]. Does any one know what the problem is so i can fix it and not just start swapping things out WILLIE NILLIE.
 

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the MAF could also need a good cleaning.
 

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Check the fuel pressure at the rail, I had the exact prob, no power till 2000 and up. For me it was a pump on its way out. Which got worse and worse till the pump would over heat and stall the car at times. Just a thought and easy enough to check. But definately check the wires and plugs, could be cross wired or a loose plug or one could have been damaged during the install, it happens.
 

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Blue LS said:
Check the fuel pressure at the rail, I had the exact prob, no power till 2000 and up. For me it was a pump on its way out. Which got worse and worse till the pump would over heat and stall the car at times.
That sounds very likely but if thats not your problem check ignition timing and then I would clean the mass airflow filament. The trick is to use brake cleaner to desolve any film on the filament. It shouldn't take much and don't touch the filament. If it feels like the engine is missing whenever its under load at low rpms it could be a coil wire. If so check the resistance of the wire. It should be between 1000 and 4000 ohms and could be your problem if above 8000 ohms. Also, make sure you didn't buy universal racing wires because they can screw up the drivability of a computerized car.
 

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wait, 96 3.8 is edis , no coil wire, no distributor .
 

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I thought so at first, but when I looked it up it uses a distributor.
 

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i have one better, i looked it up in a ford parts computer
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The guys at PEP Boy say they cleaned the mass air flow sensor and checked the fuel pressure, even hook up a secondary fuel sorce.
 

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I wouldnt take their word on it. Best to make sure of it yourself. And what is this secondary fuel source they told you they hooked up?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Installed the new mass air flow sensor. Engine seems to run ok but still has no get up and go until it get to 2000 rpm. Could it be a transmission or tourqe converter problem.
 

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there is a possibility that the torque converter is slipping giving you the 'no power' issues. But unlike an engine power loss, a slipping torque converter would make the engine rev with little accelerationg, kind of like being halfway in neutral, because the engine is still reving, but the torque converter wouldn't be catching completely.
-Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter #16
installed new throttle position sensor and replaced a brokend vacuum line with no luck. having the transmission checked today just to rule that out. any one have any other thoughts.
 

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Have the fuel pressure rechecked and find out what the pressure is reading. This sounds exactly like the prob I had when mine was on the way out. If the pump is weak it will get worse and eventually start stalling, and halfway across s 4 lane road this isnt very fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
fuel press was 30 pounds at idle and 45 pounds at wide ope throttle. the hamonic balencer is wobbeling and the shop thinks that the cam shaft position sensor may not be seeing the cam shaft correctly and not advancing the timing correctly has any one had this problem?
 

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if the harmonic balancer is wobbling then that is not good, the rubber insulator could possibly be worn out, causing the outter balancing ring to move and throw the engine off balance.
-Thomas
 

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if your check engine light is still on then it might be making your car bog down like hell. fords check engine lights tell the engine to run worse so it doesnt kill itself if something is actually wrong. so if ur lights still on take it to autozone and theyll take it off for like 20 bucks with their OBD computer
 
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