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Discussion Starter #1
The 5.0 died on me today and after being convinced was the battery I got it jumped and the Alternator light came on.:confused:
The alternator can cause the car not to start?
Got it home with the gauge sitting on M an having to keep it at 3k to keep the light off. Was only dimly lit when on though. Battery checked out good twice.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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What's the alternator voltage at idle? Could be a bad voltage regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Figuring bad regulator, as far as idle I was more concerned about getting it home than anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
12.7 volts at battery and 675 CCA by no start I mean the whole car goes dead, as if was no battery at all.
 

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You should have the battery load tested to eliminate it..One other thing is, I had the same problem before..
Car just died on me in the middle of traffic..Ended up being this plug I have circled in the pic..
I just wedged a small peice of wood between the plug and Alternator casing until I could get home and fix it properly..
Hope that helps..Good Luck!
 

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First thing I would do is take the terminals off, clean them VERY well and tighten them up. My work van didnt start yesterday and acted the same way. pleanty of power, just nothing going past the battery. Turns out that over a year ago a new battery was put in and the genious who put it in didnt tighten down the terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is not alternator related...

Have it traced to either the positive cable or the fender relay. Most likely replacing both.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Appears to have been the positive cable initial testing is good with the new cable. Started the car with no belt or alternator which is more than it was doing tomorrow will put every thing back together and hope for the best.

Odd thing is the old cable Ohms out good but guess it fails under load.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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If only a few strands of wire are carrying current, the effective max. current load drops immensely.
 

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Appears to have been the positive cable initial testing is good with the new cable. Started the car with no belt or alternator which is more than it was doing tomorrow will put every thing back together and hope for the best.

Odd thing is the old cable Ohms out good but guess it fails under load.
Dunno about you, but only one of my multimeters can measure that cable properly (all the others show 0 ohms ... but they DO go to 400.0 V DC ... )

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I only check continuity, don't have the equipment to do anything more complicated, and for $9 for the cable no need to.

Put everything back on and she fired right up even ran a full electrical load at idle and all was fine.

Anyone need a 18yr old cable? ;)
 
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