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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Noisy rocker arm / valve

I have a noisy valve after rebuilding the top end. I took the cover off and all the rocker arm bolts are tight. Before I start pulling the rocker arms off, could it be the A/C compressor for some reason?

At first I thought it was the A/C because the noise sounded like it was coming from the A/C. But when I go the the side, it sounds like a rocker arm, rod or valve.

I was going to run the car with the cover off (and cover as much as possible from splashing) but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions?

I wonder if a valve is sticking.... or a rod is off center, or, or, or.....

(sorry about the mis-phrasing of words, it is NOT TAPET!)
 

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If you briefly run the engine with the belt off, the AC won't be able to make any noise. But you sound pretty certain it's the valvetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you briefly run the engine with the belt off, the AC won't be able to make any noise. But you sound pretty certain it's the valvetrain.
I did that as well and no, it is not the A/C or another accessory. It is something in the engine. Maybe I left some piece of myself inside and its smacking against the rod or tapet!

Best I can tell is its either the water pump (which is a year old) or I have rod/piston going.

I checked all the rocker arms and rods and they where working fine, no noise from them. The noise was however worse around piston one on the block. I used my Engine Stethoscope to track down the noise and as mentioned, it was worse around piston one on the front of the block. That was about the extent of what I could test with the stethoscope.

I am putting it back together and calling a day. Like I said, the is the 3rd time I have had this block opened up and this is the last time I work on it.

Thanks all!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
:thumbsup::facepalm::2huh::bangwall:

Put everything back together and sound is gone....

Car runs fine.
 

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Very happy to read that your engine is running fine.



For future reference to make visual inspections of a running valve train, or in some cases make lash adjustments, I take an old valve cover(s), and cut the top off leaving a rectangular opening. In this way I can easily have access to the valve train components without spitting oil all over, and running down the side of the engine burning on the manifold.

Not sure how well this would work on an OHC engine like the 4.6. Thinking the cam might throw the oil straight up anyway. But I have used this idea many times on OHV engines. 3.8 covers are a dime a dozen in junk yards, and once the cut covers, and gaskets, are in place, a person can work at their leisure without concern of the mess, and possible oil starvation.
 

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You won't get any oil spray off the cams; any oil spray will be contained as long as the area surrounding the cam gear is covered. However you would need to make sure there's a good seal along the bottom of the valve cover so oil coming off the cam towers from the journals goes back into the engine and not onto the ground. Ask me how I know. ;)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/kHoZw96A2Ls" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Very happy to read that your engine is running fine.
Thank you for the comment. I found that there was no oil splattering off the valve and it was easy to inspect while the engine was running.

I just hope this fix will last another couple of years or until my wife decides on a car to replace the Cougar. If the car was not a salvage title car (we did not know at the time we bought it), I would sink money into it to keep running.

I may do a paint job on it to keep it nice looking, but that is about it. If the heads crap out again, that's it. She gets a new car whether she wants one or not. :mad:

Thanks all!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
(Ask me how I know. ;)
Messy... the 3.8 did not do that at all! I did cover the exhaust and all wiring around the valves.

I will say this, I HATE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THAT ENGINE!!! And I have the scares on my arm to prove it!!! LOL
 

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Looks like the cut cover would work on the 4.6. Just leave the hump for the sprocket. Thanks for posting the video, and input Brandon.

I used this method of cut covers mostly on small block Chevy engines to make the second adjustment while the engine is running.
 
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