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Discussion Starter #1
1995 4.6 cougar, 111K miles.

when i bought it, the only problem was thetransmission. It has a really tough time shifting into 2nd. if i'm driving it really easy, it'll shift at about 3k. but if i floor it, it goes all the way to redline, the stays there (like when you floor it in neutral). If i'm in 2nd or 3rd, and floor it to pass, it down shifts to first (or maybe neutral), his red line, and sticks there. It's not too much a problem as long as i drive pretty easy and let it shift at 3k. but i'm sure it's hurting my gas. i haven't really seen this problem on here, but a guy i know with a '97 has the same problem. help?
 

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Sounds like you may have a bad MLPS, and possibly a bad 1-2 accum.

Jay
 

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I've got the same problem on a 91 just purchased so I'd really be interested in finding a solution short of replacing or rebuilding a tranny. One difference is mine when up to speed will just slip and up the rpms rather than downshifting.
 

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BunchaTBrirds- On yours since it's got the AOD, I'd check the grommet on the TB linkage to see if it's cracked or missing. But from the sound of it, it may just be fried. What gear does it do the slipping in, OD, 3rd, etc...? Also, check your fluid and make sure it's full and clean. I'm sure someone will chime in and help you out.

Jay
 

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marvintpa: On my 95 'Bird it would do that - replaced the 1-2 accumulator and it quit hanging in 1st gear. See tech articles, transmission, and read like the first 4 or 5 of them. While you're in there, do the modifications to the separator plate, the 2-3 accumulator and the OD band. Made a world of difference in mine... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
switched the MLPS. didn't fix the problems, but it felt a little, uh, stronger. probably placebo. so i guess that leaves the 1-2 accumulator. i read the tech atricle, but the transmission is still pretty much a mystical thing. the pictures in the "modding to Jerry's specifications" scared me. i think i'll just take it some where and have them replace it with the rubber one. should i just go to a ford dealership, buy the 'rubber 1-2 accumulator' then take it somewhere and have it switched in?

and i don't know if it's rude to ask, but about how much did you guys pay for the 'specially built darrin tranmissions'? i've been thinking about just having one put in that i don't ever have to worry about, but can't find a price range.
 

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The 1/2 piston and spring is not that hard to change. Any descent transmission shop can change it out for you while doing a fluid and filter change. I would get a new spring and the piston. They should check for scoring of the bore also.
 

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And as far as a "Darrin" built transmission goes, I would PM him and inquire. There are so many different combos of parts avail. that you could upgrade that it would be hard to go by what the others have. He can also do the J-mod while in there to make the shift more firm. If you go this route, then get yourself a nice transmission cooler.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok, i replaced the mlps, and that din't help at all when i test drove it that night. and the next morning, it wouldn't shift into 2nd at all. i had to manually put it in 2nd, and that worked fine, but when i put it back in D it dropped, so there was no way to get to 3rd. i bough a new 1-2 acccum and spring, put them in (nobody warned me about the fluid bath, my hair still smells like mercon). the old spring was broken into 4 peices, and the accum was stuck in crooked. we had to jack the accum up to get it straight to drop it out. and it worked amazingly. it was the first time i've ever been able to floor it into second. sweet.

then, i get down the street, and realise that whenever i just let it shift normally, it goes to second fine, and then when it would normally go to third, it goes to neutral. could this mean that i installed the MLPS wrong? because i have the old one, and it had the red rubber gasket, so i could just put it back. or do i need to get back in and do the 2-3 accum as well? please say no.
 

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I think your MLPS might not be lined up correctly.Even if it is off a little bit it can make your shifting go crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i figured as much, so i switched back to the old one. i figured it was probably right to start with. i didn't help. but i made what i now know is a mistake in not putting it (the car) in neutral when i changed it. both of the MLPSs are doing the smae thing (if, in fact, that's the problem) so i have no point of reference at to where to put the notches. anybody have a picture of one they know is correct for a car that's in neutral?
 

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There should be a line molded into the outer black part around where the shaft of the trans. comes through the MLPS, and it may even have "neutral" on it as well. This is your alignment mark. Put the car in neutral, and then when you put the MLPS back on, make sure that these lines are aligned and tighten the 2 bolts and give it a test drive.

I haven't looked at a 95 MLPS, but the one that I am working with is a 97 F150 w/ the 4R and it has alignments marks on the MLPS.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yeah, the marks are there, i should have it (the mlps) fixed in a couple hours. it's nice to know that the problem might be incompetence rather than mechanical. it's a lot cheaper to fix. i'll let you all know.
 

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As long as incompetence doesn't cause the mechanical problem, lol... Hopefully this solves the issue.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #15
and the saga continues.

took the new mlps out, lines it up with the neutral mark, made sure my car was in neutral, disconnected the battery, put it all back together, and still no good. the car performs perfectly up to 40, then just drops out of gear and i have to slow down to 40 to get it in 2nd, or just manually shift into 2nd. the only other thing i can think of would be the 2-3 accum, but that worked just fine untill about a week ago, and i can't imagine them both going out completely at the same time.

if there aren't any other options, i'm gonna do the 2-3 accum and OD servo.

i will be drilling a hole in the pan and putting in some kind of drain plug.
 

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You can always just pull off the bottom line at the radiator, hook up a hose, start the car and drain most of the fluid that way... I put a drain plug in my pan on my 95 and it dripped from day one.

Good luck!
 

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I have a cheap, battery powered screwdriver/socket tool thing. It comes in handy after I just break all the bolts loose. I've used it to change my tranny fluid (NO more torque converter shudder :-D ) and a pontiac Grand Am. It made it a LOT faster than the other cars I have done. Homeade drain plug almost sounds like a headache. It could be done right, I guess, though. Just too risky for ME, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yeah, when i bought the 2-3 and OD stuff, i mentioned the drain plug and the guy behind the counter and a passing customer told me to just suck it up and endure the shower. can't wait.
 

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marvintpa said:
yeah, when i bought the 2-3 and OD stuff, i mentioned the drain plug and the guy behind the counter and a passing customer told me to just suck it up and endure the shower. can't wait.
I say again, put a hose on the line at the radiator cooler and pump most of it out. Then there won't be but a quart or two left in the pan.
 

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I got this drain plug:


From this vendor for $13.00 + $6 something for shipping:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/aode.htm

I haven't had a problem with it yet and it has been about a month since I installed it. Just make sure you have a drill + drill bit big enough to drill a 1/2" hole in your pan. . . .Remove the pan for installation to be safe not to get metal shavings in the tranny.
 
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