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Discussion Starter #1
THIS stuff.

I purchased a 1gal bottle of it last summer to clean my DD's condenser (?) as the AC wasn't blowing as cold as it could. Would this be good to use as a parts cleaner? I'm going to be having some parts that need cleaning and instead of spending IDK how much on brake parts cleaner I'm curious to know if I can use this stuff instead. What about using over electrical components like wires and pigtails? Or would those need to be covered up?

Yeah, yeah. It's some tough stuff, be careful not breathing it, splashing on skin, eyes, etc. I know that stuff. It's a 4:1 dilution rate, so it's 4 parts water one part chemical.
 

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It's a strong alkali, which is the opposite of an acid.

It will corrode stuff like salt, but worse; more like muractic acid.

Definitely don't spray it on wiring; it's hard on plastics and copper.

I'd clean AC coils with it, but parts are more iffy; mostly due to safety issues. Long gloves, eye protection, and old disposable clothes are a must.

(I wear tyvek dressouts to mess with corrosives or strong alkali's, or other chemicals I don't want on me. Once you get used to PPE, it's easy to do. But it scares the neighbors sometimes. :) )



I typically use Simple Green for cleaning parts, but son't leave aluminum in it for too long it will get a phosphide coating, which is hard and gray.

Strong bases require gloves, and eye protection where simple green is more forgiving.

With kids around, I'd worry about this as bad as draino, and use the same precautions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's funny. The one time I used the stuff, I was wearing nothing more than my garage / yard work / wrenching clothes. Made me cough a bit too. :tongue:

So if spraying on aluminum, what's "too long"? The directions state to leave it on for 15min before spraying down with water. Would 15min be "too long" for aluminum?
 

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It's funny. The one time I used the stuff, I was wearing nothing more than my garage / yard work / wrenching clothes. Made me cough a bit too. :tongue:

So if spraying on aluminum, what's "too long"? The directions state to leave it on for 15min before spraying down with water. Would 15min be "too long" for aluminum?
Most people do the same thing; it's "Totally Safe" until it's not. :) Anything caustic is dangerous; you get it in your eye, it's a permanent problem.

Following the directions is usually safe, but PPE is a good idea for any strong cleaner; heck, for example, Formula 409 is specifically designed to dissolve dead human skin, as that's 90% of what dirt and dust around the house actually is. :O


I use a much stronger alkali (Sodium Hydroxide) to clean condenser coils, so it should be fine for that.

You just need to be careful using strong products for the wrong use.

Mag wheel cleaner that has Hydrofluoric acid works great on getting organic material off aluminum, but it's dangerous as ****, and the bottle just says basically "don't get this on you". :)
I used that to clean all my aluminum parts on my engine. Made the driveway nice and clean too. (concrete neutralizes the acid, so it's ok for the environment.)

For removable covers and such, soda blasting works great, and paint sticks like crazy; just make sure to wash it off carefully after.

My mom cleared the house a couple of times with chlorine fumes before I noticed the stainless sink was rusted; she was pouring drain cleaner into the drain, then following it up with bleach. :) When I replaced the Iron drains with PVC, they were iron foil. :D (Drains were leaking for some reason...)

This releases clouds of noxious Chlorine gas, so don't do that. (Any acid with bleach will do this.)
Chlorine will rust almost any metal.

Any strong acid or base will cause bimetallic corrosion, like salt, but much faster.

For example, Baking soda will eat holes in aluminum, but it's safe to bathe in, and drink for a tummyache, so... :)


Chemistry is a good class to take. :)



As far as PPE; Hydrofluoric acid or Roundup will not cause any problem at all if you get it on your skin until Much later,when it eats your bones or kills your heart (HF), or kills you with Lymphoma (Roundup); We're pretty sure that's what killed my Grandma and Mom (roundup). :( They never used even gloves, because it was "Safe".

Just because it doesn't kill you today doesn't mean it's OK; be careful. :)

I use a lot of chemicals in ways not intended; so I am aware of the dangers involved.

Safety goggles that will prevent a splash are Really Necessary for any strong chemical like this; a running hose will not wash this out of your eyes fast enough to prevent you from serious eye damage.

Especially Acids and strong bases (Alkali).

Drain cleaner (H2SO4), coil cleaner (NaOH), Mag wheel cleaner (HF and HClO4), and driveway cleaner (HCl) are the strongest things out there.

And think of the kids... They have no concept of danger. :) "Look how this freaks out when I pour them together!"

And never get uncured Urethane on your skin; it sensitizes the first time, (like poison ivy) then later a small exposure can cause you to breakout all over with Hives; kinda like poison ivy on steroids, lol.

Breathing uncured urethane spray or uncured sanded dust will kill lung tissue on contact, so I wear a respirator working with it. Urethanes are Cyanide based. :)

A coworker broke out multiple times before I finally felt sorry for him, and clued him in. He was an idiot, and somewhat deserved it, so I waited a few times, lol. I can't imagine how much that must have itched.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Between here and the FB TCCoA page, I'm not hearing a "don't do it" but rather a "be careful when you do it".

And it seems that I can use it on just about all my parts but don't leave it on for the full 15min when spraying on aluminum. And what parts on our cars are steel and what parts are aluminum? I'm switching to MK-VIII LCAs, so those of course are aluminum. But things like the transmission, oil pan, etc.

I'll for sure be using safety glasses and a mask at least next time I use the stuff.
 

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That's pretty much what I'm saying, just be careful. And nitrile gloves.

Transmission is aluminum, just don't get a cleaner inside, so cover the seals/shaft openings/connectors so they don't get stuff in there.

Steel parts I use paint remover, a wire brush, and get clean metal to paint. If the paint is ok, rough it up and paint it if you want a different color. :)

Steel bolted to alumininum should be separated, ideally; but if not, be sure not to leave residue from the cleaner where it bolts together, as it will corrode there.

People don't usually realize what cleaning products really are until they're hurt.

Dipping your bare hands into coil cleaner is usually memorable the next day. :)
 
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